Lyman GPR Lock troubles

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JAK

36 Cal.
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Aug 9, 2010
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I just got done with my kit.The lock does not throw sparks just very few if none at all.I called lyman and they sent me a new frizzen did not help at all.I am using Tracks flints.The flint hits 1/2 way down and skips then 1/4 way down it makes full contact with the frizzen.What should I do?? I am thinking of getting a L&R lock for it and saying the heck with the lyman lock.What should I do I really want to use the lyman lock for now.I will say the frizzen is very stiff and some times does not open all the way when the flint hits it.I did oil it and does the same thing about 2 out of 10 tries is the frizzen spring to stiff for the frizzen or what.Please help me with little trouble.
 
How far away from the frizzen is the flint when the frizzen is closed and the lock on half cock? You may need a longer flint or maybe just move it out further in the jaws.
Also, is the bevel up or down on the flint? You may try flipping it over, different locks like different set-ups.
The flint should strike the frizzen about 2/3 of the way up at about a 60 degree angle. It should scrap down across it rather than bashing into it.
If you could post a pic of your lock with it on half cock with the frizzen closed I am sure some of the sharp minds in here could point out the problem pronto.
 
I have tried both ways on the bevel still the same thing.. I am using a 5/8 X 5/8 flint. I have tried thinner leather still the same thing.I was wrong the flint is hitting 1/4 down plus I did noticed that the flint is hitting the frizzen on half cock and the frizzen is not closing all the way either.I am tring to fig out how at add the pic.
Thanks
Jason
 
Too small of a flint. Recommend getting a 3/4 x 7/8 flint and space it about 1/8 inch from the frizzen at half cock.
 
I read , somewhere, that if you put a piece of thick lLeather under the Flint it will change the Flint to the proper angle...Read that...somewhere???
 
I tried that too with thick leather.Still the same thing. What is making me lost is the flint is hitting the frizzen and it is not closing all the way either.There is about .025 gap from the pan to the frizzen.. sorry I did not add that sooner.Like I said I am using 5/8 X 5/8 flint.I really want too shoot it before the snow fly's here soon ..lol


Oh I got it set back in the lock as far as I can go.. I will say that the screw is out there aways from the back.I just never ran across this before.
 
The GPR flint is a 3/4 x 3/4 square Black English Flint, to work properly. A standard 3/4 flint will work if you knap it soon as you put it in, it is 7/8 long & a tad too long for the Lyman lock.

Keith Lisle
 
I have some 3/4 X 3/4 I will try that tonight.. I am getting hard up to shoot the GPR.It was fun to build for my frist kit.I can not wait until I get my next gun what is going to be a Sitting Fox kit.A flinter poor boy maple in 32 cal for small game hunting.But I will give that a try here now.
 
I always cut a notch in my jaw leather so the flint was back up against the screw, bevel up on them for me. Sometimes you can put a 5/8 on in with bevel down & they will work too, but I had the best success with the 3/4 ones.

Keith Lisle
 
I am using Black English Flint.I never thought of notch the leather.I did the 3/4 X 3/4 still the same thing hitting the frizzen with gap at the pan and frizzen.I will try notching the leather here when I get off work later in the day monday.and I will post up here and let you all know..

Thanks
 
I am using Black English Flint.I never thought of notch the leather.I did the 3/4 X 3/4 still the same thing hitting the frizzen with gap at the pan and frizzen.I will try notching the leather here when I get off work later in the day monday.and I will post up here and let you all know..

Thanks
 
Sounds like the frizzen isn't closing all the way because your flint is touching it at half cock. I had that happen to me in my GPR, so I cut a V-shaped notch in the back of my leather, where the screw is. That solved my problem of the frizzen not closing. I also put my flint in the jaws with the bevel side down. That'll raise it up some, to make higher contact with the frizzen face. Good luck! And Don't give up the ship!!
 
Pictures help. The GPR lock can be a good lock. I have several and they all spark well. The frizzen is not the problem it is the cock. I have one GPR locks that just may be my best sparker of all.

Here is the unmodified GPR lock.

IMG_3872.jpg


If you notice the hammer cock is poorly designed. The replacement with a new TC cock helps correct the problem.

Here is the corrected, modified GPR lock with the TC cock.

IMG_1240.jpg


Not wanting to alter your GPR lock here is a quick fix.

IMG_1233.jpg


The lead wrap is not necessary but was just another attempt to make the GPR lock work. Use leather wraps. Try the extra thick leather under your flint and leather wrap and see if you don't have good sparker after all.
I use both 3/4 x3/4 and 7/8th flints.
 
Well I tried the notch in the leather didn't help.I have today from off from work so I will play with it more today.I will try to put thicker leather under the flint and see what happens from there.I will post up what happend later today.

Thanks for the help
 
I never hear anyone saying it, but I have to assume others do the same thing I do when needed. If a flint is too long, I just knap off some of the back to shorten it a little. I just press the flint down on the edge of a plastic garbage can by my bench with the bevel down and about half the flint over the can. A couple or three whacks, and it's shorter.

If too short, I go the other way and put extra leather in front of the screw.

Maybe from ignorance, I've always considered "right" flints to be the ones I have on hand and learned to make do with them.
 
Jason K,

Do you have a spring vise? Have you tried compressing the frizzen spring and operating the frizzen to see if it is rubbing or hanging up on some metal burr? If is swings freely than the spring might be to strong, though I’ve never heard of one of the GPR springs being too strong. It could happen. If the frizzen is rubbing you can take the frizzen off and polish it where you see rub marks. While you are at it you can also polish the bearing surfaces of the frizzen on the spring. I hope that helps.
 
I am going to knap the flint alittle.I tried the notch still hitting the frizzen.I did put thicker leather under the flint seem help with the spark alittle better.But I can not fig. out why the 5/8 X 5/8 is still hittting the frizzen and not closing all the way on the pan.

I am going to get a spring vice here soon from track.

I wish I could find out how to link my pics from my computer to this web site for this post so everyone can see it..

Thanks
Jason K
 
Flash Pan Dan,


I will give that a try it would not hurt to do it.. Thanks
 
Here's the pic everyone is asking for.. I hope this helps. Please help me out on this matter.This is a pic of it w/o the extra piece of leather under the flint..As you can see in the pic the frizzen is hitting the flint and there is a gap from the pan to the frizzen.Like I said this is a 5/8 X 5/8 flint in this pic.Plus I did move the flint back by notching the leather in this pic it is notched. It don't look like it but it is.I am using deer hide for leather.
Picture.jpg
 
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