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Lyman GPR Trigger Adjusting Screw
- Thread starter FishDFly
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Richard Eames said:
The factory version is almost a quarter of an inch too short. It doesn't even make contact, so you have to go the hardware store for a replacement. I don't remember the size. Just take yours out of the rifle and carry it to the store, find a nut that fits to give you the thread size, and buy one about a quarter inch longer. You'll end up shortening it a little, but better too long than too short.
Take the screw with you to Ace Hardware. It is a metric size. Ace has them. Then file the longer screw shorter to where you like the trigger adjustment and then cold blue the head. With a longer screw, the set trigger cleans up just great and you will love it. The GPR's are fantastic shooters. (Squirt WD 40 into the hairline gap between the barrel & ramrod rail so it doesn't start rusting there.)
Thanks to all, went wandering in search of the screw, no luck at two (2) Ace Hardware Stores.
At the nearest Ace I am known as, "Do You Have One Of These" when I enter the door.
Still on the search.
The screw does need to be a bit longer after some tinkering.
Thanks
RDE
At the nearest Ace I am known as, "Do You Have One Of These" when I enter the door.
Still on the search.
The screw does need to be a bit longer after some tinkering.
Thanks
RDE
Billnpatti
Cannon
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:2 IMHO there is littel to no use for the trigger adjusting screw on the GPR. So many people think it actually lightens the trigger but all it does is to adjust your sear engagement. The further in you turn the screw, the less sear engagement you have. Granted, this enables you to reduce the amount of trigger travel needed to fire your rifle but the actual pounds of trigger pull remains the same in any case. I recently purchased a used GPR on which the previous owner and run the trigger adjusting screw almost all the way in and had created a very dangerous situation. When I pulled the set trigger, the sear was so lightly engaged that if I bumped the back of the set trigger with my finger, the gun would fire. I immediately backed the screw way off so that I got a good engagement with the sear. It is much safer this way and the increased distance of trigger travel to fire the gun is of no concern to me considering that it is now a safer gun.
Bottom line: Use your trigger adjustment carefully and keep it safe. You don't want to have it go off when you are not ready. :thumbsup:
Bottom line: Use your trigger adjustment carefully and keep it safe. You don't want to have it go off when you are not ready. :thumbsup:
Words of wisdom there Billnpatti.
That screw between the triggers does NOT lighten the set trigger pull weight even if you replace the screw with a longer one. It does adjust the engagement of the front triggers catch with the rear triggers blade holding the blade down until the front trigger is pulled. That's all it does.
Screw a longer screw in too far and the front triggers catch can end up just barely touching the rear trigger blade. If this is done, the slightest jar of the gun can make it fire.
There is a set screw behind the rear trigger. This screw limits how far the heavy spring can travel before stopping on the screw. It does NOT lighten the force needed to "set the rear trigger".
If it is screwed in too far, the spring will not have enough travel to energize the rear trigger blade. In this condition pulling the front trigger will release the rear trigger but the rear trigger blade will not have enough energy to trip the sear in the lock.
That screw between the triggers does NOT lighten the set trigger pull weight even if you replace the screw with a longer one. It does adjust the engagement of the front triggers catch with the rear triggers blade holding the blade down until the front trigger is pulled. That's all it does.
Screw a longer screw in too far and the front triggers catch can end up just barely touching the rear trigger blade. If this is done, the slightest jar of the gun can make it fire.
There is a set screw behind the rear trigger. This screw limits how far the heavy spring can travel before stopping on the screw. It does NOT lighten the force needed to "set the rear trigger".
If it is screwed in too far, the spring will not have enough travel to energize the rear trigger blade. In this condition pulling the front trigger will release the rear trigger but the rear trigger blade will not have enough energy to trip the sear in the lock.
It's a M2.5x 8.
PM me your address and I'll mail ya one I got from my local hardware store
PM me your address and I'll mail ya one I got from my local hardware store
Something seems to be a little wrong with the thread size given.
The M2.5 matches the screw out of my GPR trigger but that metric thread comes with either a 0.45 (course) or a 0.35 (fine) pitch.
After much squinting thru a magnifying glass at that little screw, comparing it with my dial caliper tips I can say that this screw is a 0.45 course pitch thread making it a M2.5 X 0,45 thread.
The factory screw measures 4.5 mm (.177 inches) in length.
The M2.5 matches the screw out of my GPR trigger but that metric thread comes with either a 0.45 (course) or a 0.35 (fine) pitch.
After much squinting thru a magnifying glass at that little screw, comparing it with my dial caliper tips I can say that this screw is a 0.45 course pitch thread making it a M2.5 X 0,45 thread.
The factory screw measures 4.5 mm (.177 inches) in length.
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