Lyman GPR underrib.

[rmhutter]

Gentlemen, I was looking at the underrib on the rile I bought to see if it could be removed. I do not see any screws attaching it to the barrel.
Is this soldered to the barrel? It is stamped made in Italy. I believe it is an older model serial no. Ending in 81. Thanks for any help.

 

[Jim Evans]

The parts chart for the GPR shows 2 rib screws one in front of the front thimble and one behind the rear one.
If you go the Lyman muzzleloader site and look under the GPR ,in instruction 2 ,you will see the screws and the part number for them.

 

[Zonie]

It depends on when the GPR was made.

I have one that was proofed in 1985 (AN is in the little box next to the proof marks).

The under-rib has no screws holding it onto the barrel.

Although I can't see any signs of solder or braze alloy along the joint, those are the the only things I can think of that would attach it.
(IMO, epoxy is not a reliable long term joint material).

 

[rmhutter]

I believe mine is an older model, so no screws. It came with a really nice stock that is cracked beyond repair. I was considering the TOW full stock replacement, but with no way to remove the rib, it is a no go.
I think I may just go with a half stock and inlet the lock and triggers myself. I am fairly competent with tools, have "The Gunsmith of Greenville County" book and the full size blue print from TOW.
At $70 for a plain maple stock, I could screw up 4 times and still be ahead of what Lyman wants for theirs.

 

[azmntman]

:thumbsup:

 

[Black Hand]

It came with a really nice stock that is cracked beyond repair.

Considering some of the basket-cases (literally, the pieces were in a basket) people have repaired/restored, I have doubts such a thing exists (unless smashed beyond repair)...

 

[Black Hand]

Have you removed the thimbles? The screws may be hiding...

 

[rmhutter]

Maybe I should try to repair it, there is a chunk missing between the lock and the barrel. Do you think maybe something could be added to this area that would look decent? The crack runs on both sides from the front of the lock, diagonal to almost the trigger inlet.

 

[SgtMaj65]

I thought I read somewhere that either the under rib on the GPR or the thimbles are sweated on to the rifle, but I may be wrong. I have a new GPR .50 and it has 4 screws and is easily removed. On my T/C Renegade, the thimbles come off with tiny star screws accessed through a hole in the bottom of the thimble, and then you take out screws for the under rib beneath both thimbles to finish getting it off the barrel. I know when I take off the under rib on the GPR, there is always moisture under there from my hot-water barrel cleanup.

 

[azmntman]

It came with a really nice stock that is cracked beyond repair.

Considering some of the basket-cases (literally, the pieces were in a basket) people have repaired/restored, I have doubts such a thing exists (unless smashed beyond repair)...

I have a .58 hawkin that was my dads, he apparently whacked the crap outta the wedge after cleaning as it wouldnt go in and split the stock from front to the trigger guard. I was about to spend Moocho Moolah to have a replacement made (a buddy knows a guy with a duplicater?) and then my gunsmith buddy offered to repair. I had no idea that bad of damage could be repaired. Well a week later I put the rifle together and it actually shot a tighter group (glass bedded if that helped :idunno: ). I would seek repair f possible. Oh the stories you can come up with round the fire at night :blah:

 

[Zonie]

Have you removed the thimbles? The screws may be hiding...

I didn't mention it in my earlier reply but, the thimbels on my GPR also seem to have been soldered/brazed to the under-rib.

No screws whatsoever under the barrel. :hmm:

 

[Black Hand]

Maybe I should try to repair it, there is a chunk missing between the lock and the barrel. Do you think maybe something could be added to this area that would look decent? The crack runs on both sides from the front of the lock, diagonal to almost the trigger inlet.

Pictures would be helpful.

A piece of wood with matching grain (or not) could be glued into place, the lock inlet and the remainder shaped. The wood can then be stained to approximate the original color of the stock.

 

[rmhutter]

See the following pictures

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[rmhutter]

Same here, thimbles are soldered on. No screws anywhere on the underrib.

 

[Black Hand]

Depending on your level of experience, that would be a relatively easy fix (or not). I would fix the cracks and defect.

 

[rmhutter]

I am going to try to repair the damage. Thanks for the info and encouragement.

 

[Black Hand]

Please post this in the builders section. You will get plenty of help...

 

[Jimbo47]

That could be a cool project.
I think I'd repair it and sand down the stock and put on a stripe pattern to the overall stock and that would mask the repair.
Read an article in Muzzle loader magazine on how a guy mimiced curly maple using a small paint brush and dark brown leather stain, then once the stain dried, used Tung oil to finish the stock.
The striping will draw the eye toward the vertical striping and only you will know that its been repaired.