Lyman Great Plains kit question

[stinkyfeet]

Hinterland's 396 dropped to the door in 3 days.

 

[kingsax26]

to give you an idea ...this is the quality of wood the put in the lyaman kits....ive nevver seen this on a factory lyman tho

I know its a flinter...but My buddy saw my rifle and bought one of his own in percussiuon....and the wood was the same way....just beutiful

 

[Flatwater]

:rotf:

 

[tomykay12]

I can't take it anymore; gotta have one of these. lol, tk

 

[tomykay12]

Yep, but out of stock at hinterland in .54...Also, why does the description say "blue" ?? Isn't the GPR's metal in the white? Thanx, tk

 

[stinkyfeet]

Its the standard kit in the white I asked the same question but its an in the white kit.

 

[tomykay12]

Thankyou, tk

 

[rugersworld]

Built a .50 kit over 10 years ago. Was alot of fun. I went with the .50cal because I had a .50cal pistol and I wanted to keep everything the same. I know with a .50cal you can use 2F and 3F powder - not sure with the .54cal. My rifle does seem barrel heavy, but that goes away when I am shooting off hand and the rifle has minimal sway due to the weight. I browned the metal parts and did some carvings. I shoot PRB and the short lead conicals by Buffalo or Pensylvania - think they are 245gr. Either way the rifle shoots great with both. The double set triggers are a plus. Didnt like the sharp point on the but plate so I rounded it with a file. I spent alot of time sanding the wood and the metal parts to remove the casting lines. Great project - have fun.

 

[Forty Rod]

I've been shooting a .50 since 1973 and have been satisfied with it except for one thing: I wish it were a .54.

Sometimes bigger is better. :wink:

 

[tomykay12]

I'm kinda convinced here. Think I need a Lyman GPR kit in .54, and a T/C Hawken that needs a facelift in .50. That should make everyone happy. I love the hunt, tk

 

[Lonegun1894]

Don't do it! I bought one years ago, and have three now. LOL. Seriously though, it's a great gun and you can't go wrong with it. I'm sure you'll love it.

 

[aprayinbear]

Just my two cents,

I built a .50 several years back. Left metal in the white and aged it with bleach. It looks better the more I shoot it.

I don't get the .54 preference. Honesty, unless you are hunting grizzly, I don't see the advantage. As for accuracy, I can't imagine anything more accurate then my .50. In fact I shoot better with my fifty offhanded, then with any other rifle I have ever shot. The extra barrel weight really helps steady my hold. My average offhanded group at 100 yards is plate sized (although I have shot an offhanded 4" group at that distance), but at 50 yards I'm down to several inches or less. I don't shoot from rests, but I'm certain if I did, I could get moa or darned close to it. Yesterday I was at the range shooting at 50 yards. When the range officer saw my target his response was, "I wish I could do that with my M1A." My only suggestion is buy the caliber you are more likely to shoot in a pistol should you buy one in the future. Nuff said?

 

[kingsax26]

I agree, wish i had got a .54 am looking for a used GPR in .54 i can turn into a smooth bore! then its squirrels and bunnies beware

 

[Geraldo]

I traded a friend for his .54 GPR and I really like it. It shoots ragged holes at 50 yards. I use .530" RB, .018" patch, 50-60gr FFg for target practice. When hunting I load 100gr FFg.

I like the GPR so much that I bought a Lyman .54 pistol kit. When I built it I just centered the sights in the top flat figuring adjustment might be necessary. First trip out I loaded it with 40gr and shot dead center with it.

If you're building a kit you can remove the large amount of lettering on the barrel easily. It looks deep, but careful draw filing took it down and progressive sanding finished it off.

 

[tomykay12]

Thanks to 2 tall for the Hinterland tip; the kit was here in just a few days. It looks as if everything lines up, and will build into a nice rifle. Nice piece of wood. After much thought, I went with .50 cal, and after seening the hole in the end of that barrel, well, I'm thinking that is plenty for me. Thanks to everyone for the help, tk

 

[kingsax26]

ive actually been thinking about attempting to draw file the barrel....i ahve to admit im a tad scared to do it ...dont wanna screw it up

 

[kingsax26]

I sure te kit will be evrything u are looking for...as I ahve just finished building my kit...I will offer you a few tips that I learned. 1) Take you time! the one part of my rifle i rushed to finished i messed up....now im stuck with it. 2) If you dont ahve a tool....buy it dont improvise, theres a reason they made the tool( get a set up gunsmith screwdrivers from walmart for 13.00, they are priceless) 3) Be ready for lots n lots of sanding....theres a ton of wood on that stock...be creative and finally 4) Dont build your gun in the middle of the living room, if your married youll soon be divorced ( or if your me ....youll have a big stain from walnut toned stock filler )

 

[tomykay12]

Thanx. I'm a custom woodworker and have a pretty good tool selection, though I will spring for a couple new files and such. thanx again, tk

 

[Lonegun1894]

ive actually been thinking about attempting to draw file the barrel....i ahve to admit im a tad scared to do it ...dont wanna screw it up

I drawfiled my .50 GPR when the owner of my range said I can't use "anything that is marked .50", but said they know I have several muzzleloaders and that this rule is aimed at .50 BMG, not at MLs, but that the range master has been instructed to enforce the rule banning anything marked as a .50, and then smiled and said that they know I would find a way around it but as long as it isn't a .50 BMG, they are curious how I will handle it. Last we talked, they are still trying to figure out where in the world I found a "37ga".

 

[stinkyfeet]

Your welcome. I filed off the stamping on my barrel as well its easiers then thought it would be. Solid vice was the trick, finish with sand paper. Heres a good link for guidance on making it more HC/PC I lengthened the wrist quite alot on mine. http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=19171.0
I browned the entire guns steel and the lock, toe plate, and entry thimble need extra time to take the browning solution, even though they were sanded well, and cleaned. Other than that like others said theirs alotta woods that needs to come off, and save the wood chips and dust to fill in the gaps from the factory over cuts that are present. Another trick is the last two I have built the lock bolt is too long instead of cutting it down back the washer on the none lock side behind the factory washer this will also bring the factory washer flush with the lock panel. Best of luck you need anything PM me.