Lyman great plains rifle.

[andy52]

Well I unboxed a Lyman kit rifle my daughter bought me for Christmas. I was pleased that she thought of getting me this gift but the lock and trigger are really lame which I'm not going to tell her. I started shaping the stock today it's OK but I think I'll order a L&R lock and trigger for it and again not tell her.

 

[Zonie]

Remember. The L&R lock uses a mainspring that will require quite a lot of wood being removed from the lock mortise. It is not a "drop in" lock.

If the gun were mine, I would build it and shoot it with the original factory parts. After breaking it in, then, if I was unhappy with the lock I would consider replacing it with the L&R.
As for the factory, my main gripe with them is setting the rear set trigger takes far more pressure than it should. Once set, it usually works OK.

 

[TreeMan]

Order you a deerslayer trigger from Davis for it. Makes a world of difference! Is your gun a percussion or flint? Normally the percussion locks are A-OK.

 

[andy52]

Remember. The L&R lock uses a mainspring that will require quite a lot of wood being removed from the lock mortise. It is not a "drop in" lock.

If the gun were mine, I would build it and shoot it with the original factory parts. After breaking it in, then, if I was unhappy with the lock I would consider replacing it with the L&R.
As for the factory, my main gripe with them is setting the rear set trigger takes far more pressure than it should. Once set, it usually works OK.

I'm still in the build process so I haven't fired it yet. The set triggers are no place near as good as the L&Rs in some of my other guns. The lock is a coil spring type and I'm concerned about it being to slow for my taste. Inletting a L&R lock to fit the stock I can do and couldn't be a lot worse then working down the massive stock you get from Lyman.....

 

[andy52]

Order you a deerslayer trigger from Davis for it. Makes a world of difference! Is your gun a percussion or flint? Normally the percussion locks are A-OK.

It's a Flinter.

 

[Trot]

You might want to try the Lyman lock first, they really aren't that bad. I've got Siler, Davis and L&R locks as well as a Lyman, and while it isn't in their league I can't complain about it.

 

[kansas_volunteer]

Andy, if you haven't read this thread yet you should before you begin.

https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/...nd-advice-for-refinishing-a-lyman-gpr.126957/
I agree with Zonie. Use the parts that came in the kit to start with, and switch them out later if you still want. When I bought my GPR kit i decided much as you have I wanted something nicer. So, I bought an RPL lock and Deerslayer triggers right away. I was entirely debt free at the time and living cheaply. I could afford to spend extra if i wanted. Today I have debts and higher cost of living. (Women will do that to you.) If I were buying a GPR kit today I'd just use the parts in the kit and think about improvements later. I'd concentrate on refining the stock and other cosmetic work. Put Deerslayer triggers at the top of your list and the RPL lock second.

 

[Omahkapi'si]

Look forward to seeing it.

 

[andy52]

Andy, if you haven't read this thread yet you should before you begin.

https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/...nd-advice-for-refinishing-a-lyman-gpr.126957/
I agree with Zonie. Use the parts that came in the kit to start with, and switch them out later if you still want. When I bought my GPR kit i decided much as you have I wanted something nicer. So, I bought an RPL lock and Deerslayer triggers right away. I was entirely debt free at the time and living cheaply. I could afford to spend extra if i wanted. Today I have debts and higher cost of living. (Women will do that to you.) If I were buying a GPR kit today I'd just use the parts in the kit and think about improvements later. I'd concentrate on refining the stock and other cosmetic work. Put Deerslayer triggers at the top of your list and the RPL lock second.

I guess I'm just spoiled, I've had and have so many nice rifles that this one seems sort of second class. Your right about one thing though a good trigger makes a rifle nice to shoot but with a flinter a fast lock makes a big difference.

 

[andy52]

Look forward to seeing it.

In progress or the finished deal? I've just about got the forearm cut down to dimensions but not sanded. I figure the cheek piece will be the hardest to do.

 

[Omahkapi'si]

Any pics are good...

 

[andy52]

Any pics are good...

I'll post some of where I'm at right now tomorrow, nothing pretty yet just basic shaping.

 

[Walkingeagle]

I put the L&R lock into my GPR thinking I would get better performance. Never noticed any difference. To make the mainspring fit you will be working the mortise down right to the barrel metal. Just an fyi.
Walk

 

[kansas_volunteer]

I'm not versed enough in flintlocks to fully understand how a guy can say one lock is faster than another. The hammer fall time, the lock time, is measured in milli-seconds. It seems a difference of one or two one-thousandths of a second would be imperceptible. I can't say if a GPR lock out of the box is faster or slower than an RPL, but I can say the RPL looks nicer. The GPR lock is virtually identicle to a T/C Hawken lock, and they are so ordinary. I wanted something a little more snazzy for my GPR. The RPL locks look more early 19th century than 1970s.

 

[Nameless Hunter]

Remember. The L&R lock uses a mainspring that will require quite a lot of wood being removed from the lock mortise. It is not a "drop in" lock.

If the gun were mine, I would build it and shoot it with the original factory parts. After breaking it in, then, if I was unhappy with the lock I would consider replacing it with the L&R.
As for the factory, my main gripe with them is setting the rear set trigger takes far more pressure than it should. Once set, it usually works OK.

After replacing the sear spring on my GPR (reduced the regular trigger pull to about 5 lbs), tweaking the trigger main spring, and polishing the internals, the trigger function has become quite a bit better.

 

[andy52]

I'm not versed enough in flintlocks to fully understand how a guy can say one lock is faster than another. The hammer fall time, the lock time, is measured in milli-seconds. It seems a difference of one or two one-thousandths of a second would be imperceptible. I can't say if a GPR lock out of the box is faster or slower than an RPL, but I can say the RPL looks nicer. The GPR lock is virtually identicle to a T/C Hawken lock, and they are so ordinary. I wanted something a little more snazzy for my GPR. The RPL locks look more early 19th century than 1970s.

As odd as it may sound the speed of a flintlock is perceivable. When comparing any well made lets say Brown Bess to a Kentucky Squirrel rifle due to the lock size is when it becomes apparent at least to me.
I like a lock that's almost as fast as a percussion type in firing time.

 

[Sidney Smith]

My GPR has its original lock and works just fine. Sure its not on par with my Silers but it works well enough. Its a factory gun, you really cant compare it to the kits and semi customs out there.

I hope your daughter doesnt read this thread. Be glad she thought enough to buy you the gun.

 

[andy52]

Photos as promised.
To this point I have forearm and the flats basically fitted. I left the escutcheons and furniture slightly proud and will bring them down flush with the final sanding.
The tang is going to have to be Inletted slightly because it doesn't seat fully to the rear
Next will be the trigger guard and wrist area.

 

[kansas_volunteer]

Before you even attempt to put the screws in the eschutieons do yourself a favor and buy nunber two screws to replace those that come with the kit. They break of easily and make things harder. I've miked them and they are either number 1 sized screws or some odd metric size. A number two screw head will fit in the counter sinks just fine and will pass through the holes with a little fiddling. Brownell's sells number twos in bags of ten as replacements for a complte screw kit they sell. Predrill the screw holes in the wood to fit and lube the screws with bar soap or something to make them easier to turn.

 

[Zonie]

Andy
While your still in the wood removal stage, you might want to consider removing the "fish belly" curve from the bottom of the butt.
If this area is changed from a bulging curve to a straight line between the wrist and the butt plate, the gun's appearance will be quite close to a real Hawken rifle.

Of course, if you're like several others I know, looking like a Hawken isn't that important but changing the shape is something to think about.