i was just wondering someone once told me lyman and T/C flinters both have the same lock and if a person could exchange an old lyman lock for T/C's new lock or does lyman even do this? i ordered a smoothbore barrel fom TOTW for my lyman GPR .54 flinter and was wondering if this will shoot buckshot o.k. and also how it would group and how accurate a smooth barrel is. i have a .530 lee mould and my patches are blue striped pillow ticking thickness??? if i need to shoot a smaller ball what size then? I am hopeing someone out there has done this before and may be able to help me also i need help with info on how to make a good patch lube i use about 1/2 gallon blue windshield washer antifreeze,1/2 gallon water and about 1 tblsp. dish soap is this a good mix?? also does anyone have a recipe to make moose milk lube? i am expecting my smoothbore barrel any day now apparently it comes with T/C front and back sights i can hardly wait.
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lyman lock
- Thread starter beartrap
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Welcome Newhouse. Give me a minute to catch my breath.
T/C = Lymans far as lock-swapping? Don't know for sure but highly doubt it.
With a .530" ball in a .54 rifle I like a 0.015" or 0.018" patch. Is your smoothbore .54, .56 or some other bore? They go up to .62/20 gauge. Buckshot will be wild unless you go with #4 buck in a .54 smoothbore. They just don't stack well and there's no room for a shot-cup. In 20 gauge you'll get better results, but it's still a 25 or 30 yard proposition (no choke).
With sights, you should have no trouble keeping smoothbore groups to 6" at 50 yards. Some will do half that.
Stumpy's Moose Milk (Shake well before using)
Castor Oil 3 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.
Witch Hazel 4 oz.
Isopropyl Alcohol (91%) 8 oz.
Water (non-chlorinated) 16 oz.
T/C = Lymans far as lock-swapping? Don't know for sure but highly doubt it.
With a .530" ball in a .54 rifle I like a 0.015" or 0.018" patch. Is your smoothbore .54, .56 or some other bore? They go up to .62/20 gauge. Buckshot will be wild unless you go with #4 buck in a .54 smoothbore. They just don't stack well and there's no room for a shot-cup. In 20 gauge you'll get better results, but it's still a 25 or 30 yard proposition (no choke).
With sights, you should have no trouble keeping smoothbore groups to 6" at 50 yards. Some will do half that.
Stumpy's Moose Milk (Shake well before using)
Castor Oil 3 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.
Witch Hazel 4 oz.
Isopropyl Alcohol (91%) 8 oz.
Water (non-chlorinated) 16 oz.
I wouldn't be too sure of that untill you actually measure it, it seems that smoothbores that are called .54 often mike at .560". Don't ask me, I suppose it's because that is what you'd get if you reamed a .54 rifle out smooth. :huh:
I believe Lyman and T/C locks will interchange but if you are looking for something better than the Lyman lock I'd sugguest the L&R replacement lock for about the same price as a T/C.
I believe Lyman and T/C locks will interchange but if you are looking for something better than the Lyman lock I'd sugguest the L&R replacement lock for about the same price as a T/C.
I just looked at my guns and the lyman lock in just a little longer and higher than my tc Hawkins. Lyman locks are metric TC are standard. Niether one fit in the mortise on the other one. Real close but no cigar. The lock on the TC is from the mid 1970's so they mite of changed it but L&R listed a lock for the TC and A lock for the Lyman guns.
Lehigh....
Lehigh....
FYI...no longer any need to consider 3rd party locks for TC muzzleloaders...TC has made a major overhaul / redesign of their Flint lock assemblies...I have several of the new ones and they are simply perfect.
And TC has installed the new improved reliability parts on some old style locks I had at no charge.
Perfect is a pretty strong word Mr. Roundball. I have a T/C Penn.Hunter, late model with "improved" lock and Don't find it quite "perfect". My only other flint is a Pedersoli Blue Ridge and it is much faster than the T/C and flints last longer as well. I think the coil spring is a very poor idea in a flint lock or percussion. :imo:
Actually on Roundball's advise I had my old style T/C Hawkins lock updated and it works excellent. The lock time is very fast and if I am careful with the flint it is holding this this is every bit as fast as my cap locks...
My Lyman Trade Rifle lock that came on the rifle is really impressive also. Lock time is really fast. I have been still shooting the same agate that came with the rifle. I would hate to guess how many shots I have taken with that agate. I am going to re shape it with a mizzy wheel and see if I can get a little more life out of it...
My Lyman Trade Rifle lock that came on the rifle is really impressive also. Lock time is really fast. I have been still shooting the same agate that came with the rifle. I would hate to guess how many shots I have taken with that agate. I am going to re shape it with a mizzy wheel and see if I can get a little more life out of it...
Well, my statement is what it is.
I have no idea what other dimensions or issues may be entering into your circumstances, but I have 8-10 TC Hawken Flintlocks, all with new style parts, (all have original coil springs) shoot one or another of them almost every Saturday year round...approaching 4000 shots now...Goex and 3/4" black english flints...never had the first lock failure...use the same flint for a 40 shot range session, etc.
If yours is a lock problem, I sure wouldn't put up with an unreliable lock...all you have to do is priority mail the lock to Service Manager Tim Pancurak's attention with a memo and ask him to make it more reliable...and he will, at no charge under lifetime warranty...good luck :redthumb:
Well it's not a reliablity issue, with a good flint it does always fire but it is not fast.
I've run some black english flints but think I get better results with the cut agate flints.
I've primed with 3f and 4f, little and lots, I drilled out the touch hole, (that helped some) but it just is not fast as the Pedersoli.
One thing I have learned from this forum:
:results:
I'm constantly seeing honest and intelligent folks having very different opinions and getting very different results from the same products and procedures.
Nobody trying to sell anything, just very different experiences.
Maybe this goes beyond Newton's Physics and into the Spiritual.
:m2c: :results: :imo:
I've run some black english flints but think I get better results with the cut agate flints.
I've primed with 3f and 4f, little and lots, I drilled out the touch hole, (that helped some) but it just is not fast as the Pedersoli.
One thing I have learned from this forum:
:results:
I'm constantly seeing honest and intelligent folks having very different opinions and getting very different results from the same products and procedures.
Nobody trying to sell anything, just very different experiences.
Maybe this goes beyond Newton's Physics and into the Spiritual.
:m2c: :results: :imo:
That's an unusual one there, getting more life from an agate than a BEF...incredible.
PS: the hole in TC's redesigned liner is .075"...you can see the powder perched in the hole...I'm sure that also contributes to the speed of the ignition.
Don't know about spritualty by I do know about my flintlocks...they're perfect and ignition is a single event...two more days and get to go again...love it !
:redthumb:
CoyoteJoe, I'm have to go with round ball with the touch hole liners. The tc hawkens I have had a old touch hole liner on it and it just didn't work to well. I put in the new ones that use a allen wrench to screw in and it was like night and day. I can shoot it with my elephant powder in the prime pan and it goes off till that stuff fouls up the frizzen to much. I wipe the flint and frizzen and don't touch the touch hole. I can't do that with my lyman trade gun. The touch hole blocks up fast on it. have to clean it every other shot, till I drill it out some. And you know what I think your right on the cut agate. My lock eats the black flints bad. The good cute agates last longer on mine to. :imo: But it does have on a old hammer. Still have to get a new one. Anyway try the new liners I think you'll be happy.
Lehigh...
Lehigh...
Yes, the new style, taller hammers and improved frizzens will fix the "eating flint" problem permanently...I get 40-60 shots out of a 3/4" black english flint until I get tired of knapping it, and I don't bother nursing them anymore...buying them in bulk for less than a dollar each, I just use one for an entire Saturday range session and then just pitch it when I clean the rifle
I guess that would make sense, but wouldn't it be easier for the manufacturers to bore a standard .54 caliber barrel and just polish it without rifling it instead of using different machinery to bore it out to a larger size. Making the barrels on the same machinery would save the manufacturer a lot of money.
Well I wasn't really suggesting that anyone would first rifle a barrel just so they could then bore it smooth. I just recently aquired a Jack Garner smoothbore which I fitted to a T/C Penn. Hunter and though Jack calls it a .54 it actually measures .560". So you could say it's a .54 with the lands removed. I think the real reason is so one can use the common .530 & .535" balls which do fit the .560 smoothbore just fine with a thick patch :results:.
I wasn't suggesting that you meant that, Coyote Joe. Just that I thought that for machining it would be a lot easier for them to just take a .54 caliber barrel that has been bored out, but hasn't yet been rifled than to change tooling to make a larger barreled smoothbore. I don't mean to say that they didn't do it that way, just that it seems like it would increase the cost to manufacture the smoothbores.
How do you like your smoothie? Do they offer one to fit a Renegade? I have beeen thinking about investing in a .62 cal. smoothbore to fit my Renegade flintlock, if they are available.
I see what you mean. I have no idea how Jack Garner actually manufactures his barrels but I don't suppose the bore diameter effects the production cost. I was being a bit facetious, I expect the real reason for the .560" bore diameter is to permit use of the same balls as a .54 rifle. It's like a .54 rifle but no lands, It's all groovy!.
The barrel was not a "drop-in", just a barrel. It came with a well fitted breech plug but I had to pull that and make one from a 5/8X18 bolt to fit the T/C tang. It's easy enough to make a plug for the flint and TOW and others carry a plug for percussion as T/C doesn't sell them. Of course I had to install the underlug (staple type), soldered on a brass turtle front sight, and am still waiting for the under rib I ordered from TOW.
The barrel was 15/16" straight Octagon for 12", then bands and tapered round to muzzle. He has 30", 36", and 42" I believe.
As this is still "work-in-progress", I haven't shot it much. With 60gr 3f, two 28ga.card wads, one fiber wad and a .535" ball in .021" pillow ticking it seemed to load about right, snug but not hard to ram. That load went about 2 1/2" at 25 yards and the same load but with one ounce of #6 lead shot seemed a deadly pattern for grouse.
I don't know what Jack may offer in 1" diameter for a Renegade, give him a call, he don't mind talkin'.
I do believe someone is offering a Drop-in for Renegade and big bore hawken in 20ga. but just heard of it, don't know who or where.
The barrel was not a "drop-in", just a barrel. It came with a well fitted breech plug but I had to pull that and make one from a 5/8X18 bolt to fit the T/C tang. It's easy enough to make a plug for the flint and TOW and others carry a plug for percussion as T/C doesn't sell them. Of course I had to install the underlug (staple type), soldered on a brass turtle front sight, and am still waiting for the under rib I ordered from TOW.
The barrel was 15/16" straight Octagon for 12", then bands and tapered round to muzzle. He has 30", 36", and 42" I believe.
As this is still "work-in-progress", I haven't shot it much. With 60gr 3f, two 28ga.card wads, one fiber wad and a .535" ball in .021" pillow ticking it seemed to load about right, snug but not hard to ram. That load went about 2 1/2" at 25 yards and the same load but with one ounce of #6 lead shot seemed a deadly pattern for grouse.
I don't know what Jack may offer in 1" diameter for a Renegade, give him a call, he don't mind talkin'.
I do believe someone is offering a Drop-in for Renegade and big bore hawken in 20ga. but just heard of it, don't know who or where.
SCATTERSHOT
40 Cal.
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Newhouse, sounds like your mix is more of a bore cleaner than a patch lube. I like all natural ingredients with a patch, and have had good luck with T/C's 1000+, Wonderlube, and a beeswax/tallow mix.
As for accuracy with your new smoothbore, I think you will be impressed when you find the right load. I had one of the smoothbore Renegades a while back, and I was absolutely astounded at the accuracy. I'll dig up the old targets and get the load data to you shortly.
Gene
As for accuracy with your new smoothbore, I think you will be impressed when you find the right load. I had one of the smoothbore Renegades a while back, and I was absolutely astounded at the accuracy. I'll dig up the old targets and get the load data to you shortly.
Gene
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