Lyman mold question

[running horse]

Help every one. I picked up a Lyman mold 4 or 5 years ago in hopes of casting ball, didn't have any lead at that time so it say in the box and waited I eventually tried a different size ball and like it even more. Pulled the mold or of the box last weekend to look at it contemplating getting rid of it and noticed it want the same size as the box said. Worked out in my favor but has anyone else has this happen. The box was for a .495 but the mold is a .490

 

[Rifleman1776]

Don't get worked up over this. A shipping/packing error at the factory is all that happened. Unfortunate though you may have to buy another mould. But, Lyman used to have lifetime warranties on some of their stuff. An e-mail to the might allow you an exchange.

 

[mooman76]

Never happened to me but Lyman's Q&A has been iffy at best the past few years. I did buy a mould one year, used that was the wrong size but it was my fault. I reversed a couple of the numbers. I did get it cheap though and eventually was able to use it.

 

[azmntman]

Yes, you should keep the mold and accumulate rifles until such time as one matches the mold. :grin:

 

[running horse]

I haven't checked it with calipers yet but according to the numbers it matches now if the numbers on the mold are rite. As far a aquireing more I'm trying but they get so expensive. Working on buying parts for the next one. Not sure what it will be yet though

 

[Maven]

Bullet molds don't always cast to the dimension printed on the mold itself or the box. If we limit the discussion to roundball and conical molds using pure lead only, it's pretty uncommon to find one that casts exactly to a given diameter, even with identical molds from the same manufacturer. With roundballs, it's not so great a problem as you can vary the patch thickness to compensate for differences in diameter, or you can "Beagle" the mold. (Google it: easy to accomplish and effective + is reversible/doesn't harm the mold.) For
conicals, i.e., Minie's, REAL's, and/or Maxi-Balls, undersized bullets are more problematic, but that can be overcome by beagling or paper patching. Oversized conicals can be reduced by careful resizing.

In short, it's is not unusual to find molds, even custom ones, e.g., Jeff Tanner RB moulds (sic), which don't cast exactly as marked. Moreover, manufacturing tolerances and even mold wear can result in difference standards of acceptability. E.g., I have a beautiful Lachmiller (pre-RCBS) RB mold marked .451", which casts balls that are no larger than .446" - .447" and are thus too small for the revolver I purchased it for. OTOH, someone with a rifle using a .445" RB may find it more useful than I.

Sorry for the long winded disquisition, but I hope it helps.

 

[necchi]

My Lyman 490 ball mold is stamped 490 on one side with a sub-number 452 on each side. I don't have the box with a sku# anymore.

hint;
this is a forum not a text,, please slow down a bit and use the proper words needed to form logical sentences. It will help us understand what you mean the first time we read it.

 

[mooman76]

Yes, you should keep the mold and accumulate rifles until such time as one matches the mold. :grin:

Actually it was a mould for a revolver and I didn't have that caliber at that time.

 

[mooman76]

I haven't checked it with calipers yet but according to the numbers it matches now if the numbers on the mold are rite. As far a aquireing more I'm trying but they get so expensive. Working on buying parts for the next one. Not sure what it will be yet though

I am more likely to buy an older Lyman mould as apposed to a newer one. First they are cheaper and second they are more likely better quality, plus if the seller is an honest you can find out what size the bullets or RBs drop at. Lyman uses cherry's to cut the cavities and often use them too long. As it wears, the size comes out smaller and often, too small.

 

[Zonie]

Although it might have been a factory screw up, I doubt it.

More than likely, at a gun store or swap meet the mold was removed from the box so a customer could look at it along with several other molds and the clerk put the wrong mold back in the box.

 

[running horse]

Sorry everybody it appears as though I have made several grammatical errors as well as spelling. Auto correct doesn't help much neither does my poor reading ability in proofreading my own posts. The first word was suppose to be hello for starters. I made an attempt to correct errors I have found but have no clue how I am not finding an edit button for my original post. Thank you all for your input thus far. I will see if I can get some ball run through the mold over the weekend as well as my bag mold and compare there size with ones I purchased of the same size. Thank you all.

 

[mooman76]

On this sight you can only correct errors for a short time. I believe 20 minutes. After that it takes a moderator so it's there to stay. Not a big deal, we all make mistakes.

 

[necchi]

Auto correct doesn't help much neither

Ty friend, all's good.
Forum settings are 15min to edit.

When you crank up for casting this weekend be mindful that the Lyman iron/steel mold will need more time to get to proper casting temp then the bag mold.
There is a learning curve when it comes to casting, not a long one, but it's there. I can still easily remember the struggles I had.
And it was this forum that helped me, :wink:

 

[Kansas Jake]

Keep in mind too that any balls or bullets that don't turn out are easily recycled into the pot. I usually end up with some early balls that are not up to snuff when I first start. I simply put them back in the pot until the mold is at a good temperature. Once I get into a rhythm it goes well although I still get an occasional poor fill or wrinkle if I don't do my part.

Be safe and again, don't have any water around your casting stuff. If I'm casting in warm weather I have a hat or sweat band on my head and keep my water glass away from the casting area if I need a drink.

 

[mooman76]

Preheating the mould will get you casting good allot sooner. I set my mould on the pot as it heats up or dip it (the corner to include the sprue plate) into the lead melt until it no longer sticks to the mould.

 

[Rifleman1776]

Preheating the mould will get you casting good allot sooner. I set my mould on the pot as it heats up or dip it (the corner to include the sprue plate) into the lead melt until it no longer sticks to the mould.

I do the same or just let float in the lead. Cast when lead won't stick.

 

[running horse]

I'm a little short on some of the conveniences. I have a fire, a torch if I want it, a ladle and the two molds. It's a slow process for me. Didn't get to it today, ended up picking up a spinning wheel for a boy scout group that needed some repairs which took up my day. Perhaps tomorrow.

 

[mooman76]

That's the good thing about casting. It doesn't take a bunch of fancy equipment or money to get started. Many of us started on a Coleman stove. A kitchen stove works also, if the lead is clean but many don't like doing it in the kitchen.

 

[Rifleman1776]

I'm a little short on some of the conveniences. I have a fire, a torch if I want it, a ladle and the two molds. It's a slow process for me. Didn't get to it today, ended up picking up a spinning wheel for a boy scout group that needed some repairs which took up my day. Perhaps tomorrow.

Wat kind of "fire"? I have used a propane burner, as found on a fish fryer, a Coleman stove, Lyman bottom pour pot (rusted out in storage ) and now a Lee bottom pour I ladle from. All will work. The Coleman or fish fryer work just fine. You can pick up cast iron at antique shops to work from.

 

[hanshi]

I have molds from around 6-8 different manufacturers. Almost all measure as indicated on the box. One of my Lyman double cavity molds is .40 caliber. But one side drops a .400" ball while the other drops a smaller ball, perhaps .396" or so. Most of the rest are spot on regardless of brand. I do have a Lyman .445" mold that drops ball measuring about .443".