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Lyman Trade Rifle Barrel Wedge

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koauke

40 Cal.
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Jun 14, 2014
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Well, I just received my Lyman Trade rifle. Everything looks good and I can't wait to get it cleaned and out the the range.

I'm having trouble getting the barrel wedge to push all the way through. Even when squeezing the barrel and the stock together I'm unable to get the pin through.

I believe I remember reading somewhere that you can loosen the screws on the tang then insert the barrel and wedge pin?
 
You can try that. I had to do that at first to get the barrel and hook to mate perfectly as the fit was so tight. To get the wedge pin through both escutcheon plates requires a little fitting sometimes. Lyman inserted a 1 page addendum to my instruction booklet describing how to do this. Both my Trade Rifle and Great Plains rifle were too tight a fit as received.
 
My Lyman's Deerstalker was the same way, and that's how I was able to fit it.

Some people seem to like an easy thumb push to seat their's, but I like to need a little light rapping of my mallet so as I know it's not going anywhere.
 
I have had trouble with almost all of mine at one time are another I still have one GPP that I have to insert from the left side have tried everything I know to do she just want fit from the right but still works fine from the left side
 
Push it in as far as it was will go and then look at it from the other side. You will most likely see that the end of the wedge is not lining up. Pull it bac out, lay it on the bench and tap with a hammer on the side that will bring it into alignment. Once adjusted, your wedge will have an up and down side.

if the wedge will not fit through the keyway (check with the barrel out of the stock) you may have to insert a screwdriver or other pry device in the keyway to open it up. A very little of this goes a long way!
 
I like mine where I use a rubber mallet for the last 1/16 inch. A couple of years ago I was hunting with my GPR and was walking back to the truck it was wet and on a gas well road. Well I slipped legs came out from under me and needless to say I busted my backside :redface: . If someone would have had a camera I would probably be paying blackmail now. Anyway when I go back to the truck and was putting my gun in a case I noticed one of the wedge pins was missing. Since then I have made them a little more snug and bought some extra pins if something like that happens again.
 
Yes, loosen the screws on the tang and then push the wedge key through. IIRC, Lyman suggests that this goes right to left. Then tighten the screws down once the key is in place. After a few sessions at the range, pull the barrel and take a look at the stock where the barrel rests on it. There may be a few shiney spots that show where the wood was left a little proud and may be causing your fit problems. Carefully sand those down a little at a time and see it that improves things. This may or may not be necessary as things may just set into place after a while but be aware that this is normal unless it's just next to impossible to get the barrel to fit into the stock without bending it (the stock) to the breaking point.
 
Here's a few things to try:

First, buy a few spare wedges. Most M/L supply stores have them, get one larger than the current version. File/grind it down to a size that fits with thumb pressure. This is cut-n-try and you may overdo it and ruin one. I don't like to use more force on a wedge than I can exert with my hand so I can remove the wedge with just a little nudging in the field if needed.

Second, you can make a retained version: remove the wedge plate (typically the one on the right side), make a 1/16" vertical groove from top to bottom of the recess, make a 1/8" slot in the wedge using whatever you have (drill press, files, etc) about 1/4" from tip to about 1/4" from flared end. Or you can purchase one already slotted). Use 1/16" wire just short enough to fit the wedge plate recess, stick it through the new slot in the wedge, screw back the plate, now you have a retained wedge, a feature mostly found in high-grade firearms. Don't worry if your slot is rough/crooked/wobbly, it only shows when the wedge is out of the barrel.

This feature is helpful while cleaning the barrel, and prevents a wedge from being lost in the field as can happen when the weapon gets very cold and metal contracts.

I don't like to remove material from a component that is difficult to replace, such as the stock or the barrel lug. I'd rather tinker with a part, like a barrel wedge, that is replaceable so if I botch the job, I can remake the part.
 
I tried loosening the tang screws however I can't get the breech of the barrel (snail/nipple area) to fit down into the notch in the lock plate. There is a mark on the bottom of the snail area where it rubs on the lock plate.

Suggestions? I tried to call the company where I purchased it but their tech was out. Hopefully they will be willing to exchange it. I will try calling Lyman as well.

A little disappointing.
 
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