Lyman Trade Rifle inletting issues

[Audie1966]

I got one of the last Lyman Trade Rifles in 50 calibre Flint and as it was supposed to be a full and complete kit I was dismayed that the barrel would not sit in the stock nor the ramrod meet the channel it resides in. I called Lyman and they were somewhat helpful in that they had their Gun Tech call me back once. He said he would call back if he had a solution to my issue. No word back yet. He did say that they had issues like this and he thought they had caught them all. They did not. The inspector name on the box and the internal inspection tags indicate a lack of care and QC. I also found that on their testing of the lock, as they do at either Investarms or Lyman, that the frizzen horn was ripping away material from the stock. I am not waiting for a response again so I have begun the fitting of this "finished" piece as if it was a "kit". I bemoan the lack of attention to this amazing "hobby" as I have TC Rifles and they are fantastic. Woe that we lost that great source of Front Stuffers. I am also beginning the road to making my own powder and already make my own balls. I love the ability to be independent yet finding flint is not easy now. I am not too good at making my Agate work very well and do not have any good English flints despite having grown up in London. If only I knew then what I know now...

 

[Eric Krewson]

On the upside, if you do your inletting and fitting carefully you will have a much better gun than Lyman ever put out.

 

[Red Owl]

This may sound like a "low brow" way of doing things but the bottom of the barrel has 3 flats. You can cut strips of sand paper the width of each flat and Elmer glue them in place and use the barrel as a sanding block- back and forth. Don't put any sand paper on the sides of the barrel- that will keep the sanding controlled. This actually works well. REMEMBER in most instances if the barrel doesn't fit, it is usually only a very small amount of wood causing the hang up, in fact, you might first want to glue the sand paper only to the 45 degree flats so you don't deepen the channel. Inletting blue works but a lot of folks get it spread all over and then, not so good. Another trick is aluminum foil. Slip it between barrel and stock to locate the high points that need scraping.

 

[Audie1966]

This may sound like a "low brow" way of doing things but the bottom of the barrel has 3 flats. You can cut strips of sand paper the width of each flat and Elmer glue them in place and use the barrel as a sanding block- back and forth. Don't put any sand paper on the sides of the barrel- that will keep the sanding controlled. This actually works well. REMEMBER in most instances if the barrel doesn't fit, it is usually only a very small amount of wood causing the hang up, in fact, you might first want to glue the sand paper only to the 45 degree flats so you don't deepen the channel. Inletting blue works but a lot of folks get it spread all over and then, not so good. Another trick is aluminum foil. Slip it between barrel and stock to locate the high points that need scraping.

THAT IS SIMPLY BRILLIANT. I HAVE ALSO USED THE MARK UP METHOD OF ADDING A SUBSTANCE TO THE BARREL TO FIND WHERE IT SHOWS ON THE STOCK AND USING A STEEL STRAIGHT EDGE TO FIND THE HIGH SPOTS. I REALLY LIKE THE SAND PAPER ON THE BARREL IDEA!

 

[Red Owl]

I didn't want to push it BUT.... you get a really good fit. Start with the angled sides and then the bottom if needed.

 

[waksupi]

A full and complete kit, means you get all the parts. It is up to you to fit them all together properly.

 

[EC121]

A full and complete kit, means you get all the parts. It is up to you to fit them all together properly.

What he said.
You did get a full and complete kit. They are called kits instead of finished guns because they need work. File some draft on the bottom half of the side flats on the barrel and the sides of the tang.. It usually doesn't take much, and it makes it easier to remove the barrel and keeps the wood from grabbing the barrel. Then wrap some sandpaper around the ramrod and sand the ramrod channel until it suits you. You might as well taper the ramrod while you have the sandpaper out, because the 3/8" rod won't fit in a 3/8" hole.

 

[Audie1966]

What he said.
You did get a full and complete kit. They are called kits instead of finished guns because they need work. File some draft on the bottom half of the side flats on the barrel and the sides of the tang.. It usually doesn't take much, and it makes it easier to remove the barrel and keeps the wood from grabbing the barrel. Then wrap some sandpaper around the ramrod and sand the ramrod channel until it suits you. You might as well taper the ramrod while you have the sandpaper out, because the 3/8" rod won't fit in a 3/8" hole.

Not a kit rifle. Purchased as a finished product. It was very poorly done. I called it a kit as I will have to finish the work that was supposed to be done.