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Mag Spark 209 Primer Adaptor

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mligon

32 Cal.
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Gentlemen: Can anyone tell me about the mag. spark 209 primer adaptor? How does it work? Will I have to take out my existing nipple etc?

Sincerely,
Myron Ligon
 
When I first got in ML's I came from a magnam centerfire camp and was/am very focused on hunting so tried to bring thos philosiphies over as well...
The CCI #11 cap has done as well for me as ANYTHING else I have tried.
 
I'm sure you know that it is an expensive device which replaces the regular nipple in a percussion gun to allow the use of #209 shotgun primers instead of #11 caps.

The shotgun primer will produce more heat/flame than a standard #11 cap but usually this is not needed.

Folks who are shooting one of the synthetic black powders that need a hotter flame to get reliable ignition can simply buy Magnum #11 caps or RWS #1075 caps made by Dynamite Nobel.

In addition to spending a lot of money for one of these Mag Spark #209 adapters, after they are installed it can be a real PITA to have to unscrew the top, pry out the spent shotgun primer, insert another primer and then screw on the cap again before the next shot can be fired.

Also, if the gun has a chambered breech with a small connecting flame channel connecting it to the nipple hole, one must first remove the spent shotgun primer, then load the barrel, then continue with the insert new primer and screw on the cap.

This is needed because the flame channel hole between the bore and the nipple threads needs to be open to get the powder charge to blow back to the base of the nipple/adapter when the projectile is loaded or they will have misfires or slow ignition.

I guess I could have just said these things are a waste of money but I think if people can see why I say that, they will have a better understanding. :)
 
I have one. It is slower to load but it works. Even a #11 mag cap may not be reliable on some of the substitute powders. The mag spark can give you an alternative if you want to shoot something other basic black.
 
its not a gimmick at all, 209 primers ARE a better set up to use over #11 percussion caps.

There is no PRYING the primer out either, it seems we are getting some tall tales on this set up

The down side, do NOT buy one with the 6-1mm thread as they were machined wrong and will rip off the main platform. The guy building them took it under his own idea that another thread would be a good idea! Well that extra thread made it super thin at the primer base and with the pressure, they will rip right off.

The other thread adapters seem to be fine, but that 6-1mm is NOT safe.
DSCN1599.jpg

DSCN1594.jpg
 
I had an older version of those things and some times it would take me 5 minutes to reload a primer, they may be better now.
 
The 209 primer adaptor is a true waste of your money. :shake: If you are shooting real black powder, just a regular #11 cap will work just fine. If you are shooting a substitute, a #11 magnum will ignite it quite well and quite reliably. There is absolutely no need for using a 209 primer nor is there any need for using a musket primer. :nono: Both will certainly ignite the powder but will cost you a good bit more per shot and will offer absolutely no advantage. :doh: Put your money back in your pocket and stick to either the #11 or the #11 magnum caps. :thumbsup:
 
No experience with them here, but there is one point you might be interested in. I've found that "too much" primer power can lead to inaccuracy/opened groups.

Was on a musket cap kick when I started shooting muzzleloaders. Open groups were then norm until I reverted to #11 caps. I've since settled on CCI #11 magnum caps and have no ignition problems and good accuracy.

I believe the 209 primer is hotter than even the musket caps. Winchester makes a reduced power 209 because others have found that the standard 209 is just too much for good accuracy.
 
no they make reduced primers to help control the "crud ring" the other muzzys are famous for building up in the bore towards the breech.

The mag spark adapter i had worked awesome and accuracy was amazing, until the adapter ripped apart :haha: Luckily it flew forward, away from me.
 
If you do get one,
Be sure to immediately wash all the factory oils from it useing a fully saturated saline solution. Scrub it well with a steel brush and let it soak in the salt water for a good hour then let it air dry.
It might be a good idea to repeat this process once a day for a week.
 
"... its not a gimmick at all,..."

Maybe "gimmick" is the wrong word to describe them but “absolutely unnecessary” is the correct word.
No, on second thought, unnecessary gimmick is the right word! :grin:
 
Kentuckywindage said:
.......... the adapter ripped apart :haha: Luckily it flew forward, away from me.
Now there's another good reason not to buy one, thanks for the advice Kentuckywindage.

Wonder if it would work in a flintlock...... :slap:
 
dont try to look over what i said. Its only on the 6-1mm that i feel is dangerous and not recommended. Have they fixed it since last year? I sure hope so, thats something you'd have to call and check on.
 
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