Maintaining stock with carving ?

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I normally wax my rifle stocks several times a year and wipe them down with bear grease every time I clean them. I just built a new woodsrunner with the incised carving. The wax turns white in the carving and I spent an hour picking it out of the carving with a tooth pick. How do yall protect the stocks on your hunting rifles with carving?
Thanks
Marty
 
Meby 50 yrs. ago , I quit using white residue wax on everything. Ya wax your rifle , go to a shoot on a warm day , and the white wax begins to ooz and dry out of any orafice it's been put into. Soooo......Found Minwax "Special Dark" finishing wax. Lowes has it , and some hdw, stores , too. NO MORE OOZING WHITE WAX, Drove me nuts , as well. Done w/ that problem.
 
I alternate between using Johnson's, I think its bowling alley wax and the aerosol Lemon Pledge, neither one of them turns white.. I always use a tooth brush when applying the Johnson's to keep it from building up in the incise carving. The Pledge cleans out any build up and leaves a nice glow and some protection. Both enhance the wood grain, and the carvings, both relief and incise.
Robin
 
I normally wax my rifle stocks several times a year and wipe them down with bear grease every time I clean them. I just built a new woodsrunner with the incised carving. The wax turns white in the carving and I spent an hour picking it out of the carving with a tooth pick. How do yall protect the stocks on your hunting rifles with carving?
Thanks
Marty
Hi Buff1958

I’m new to muzzleloading and really confused about stock maintenance. For metal, I have the idea down that you clean the fouling off, dry, and then lightly coat metal parts with a rust preventative.

But for a nice prefinished Pedersoli stock,
would I need to apply an oil or bear grease after cleaning to keep it from drying out and apply wax later? Or would the factory coated finish be enough? I’m also freaked out about oiling inside the lock plate inlet or in the wood between the barrel.

Just trying to come up with a consistent regimen for after my first shoot that is coming up.

Thanks!
 
The best wax to use as finishing coat on an oil finish is carnauba wax. Much harder than other waxes, especially beeswax, and remains stable in hot temperatures: its melting point is around 80C/180F, much higher than any temperature you want to handle bare-handed... No oozing whatsoever.

It gives an excellent waterproofing, and has the added advantage to have a "grippiness" to a firm touch. My stocks don't need checkering, on any rifle in any caliber..

You can buy pure carnauba on the net, which you can then mix with white spirit to make a paste, or you can buy high quality carnauba-based car wax, this works too.
 
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After I clean my gun, I just put a little oil on a rag and polish the whole rifle. Not much, and then wipe her down with a dry towel. No wax, nothing fancy. Works great!!
 
Marty.......I dealt w/ the white mess clogging carving 40 yrs. ago. Get Minwax Special Dark furniture wax. Instantly eliminates the problem light colored waxes cause. I get it at Lowes.
 
I normally wax my rifle stocks several times a year and wipe them down with bear grease every time I clean them. I just built a new woodsrunner with the incised carving. The wax turns white in the carving and I spent an hour picking it out of the carving with a tooth pick. How do yall protect the stocks on your hunting rifles with carving?
Thanks
Marty
I don’t care for wax on a stock, no matter the brand or color used, particularly on a stock with carving. And the extra ‘shine’ and residue it leaves sure doesn’t improve the look in photographs. I’ve seen folks here and on other forums trying to sell guns with wax residue buildup (or whatever) of varying shades in the carving that just kills the detail and the sellers appear perplexed when their gun doesn’t sell or at least generate interest. Poor lighting and shadows also do not help when hoping for pinup quality photographs to assist in selling a high end gun. Add the glare and wax residue…..
 
I use a rag dampened with Type F tranny fluid and wipe the whole thing, lock, stock and barrel. I've been attacked about this more than once yet know a few others who also use Type F. It cleans the stock and seems to make the wood harder over time but leaves no residue. I sometimes wipe it on and then wipe it off if the rag is too damp.
 
I normally wax my rifle stocks several times a year and wipe them down with bear grease every time I clean them. I just built a new woodsrunner with the incised carving. The wax turns white in the carving and I spent an hour picking it out of the carving with a tooth pick. How do yall protect the stocks on your hunting rifles with carving?
Thanks
Marty
I like to seal my stocks with 2-3 spray on pollyurethane coats that is water proof and soaks into the wood pours after final sanding. When that dries and any whiskers are cut I apply Tru-oil rubbed out to 3-4 coats which makes it look like a authentic hand rubbed oil finish. When that is dry I use Renaissance museum grade wax on wood and metal for final preservation. Applied correctly and rubbed out should leave a low luster smooth clear finish.
 
I like to seal my stocks with 2-3 spray on pollyurethane coats that is water proof and soaks into the wood pours after final sanding. When that dries and any whiskers are cut I apply Tru-oil rubbed out to 3-4 coats which makes it look like a authentic hand rubbed oil finish. When that is dry I use Renaissance museum grade wax on wood and metal for final preservation. Applied correctly and rubbed out should leave a low luster smooth clear finish.
The renaissance wax turns white in the carving. I cleaned it out with a tooth pick and used the dark wax. It turned out well
 
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