Making a forge

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Desert Rat

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I found an article about making a homemade forge I was thinking about giving it a whirl for some small tool tinkering and maybe even give knife making a try. My question is the article calls for fire bricks to be used. What are fire bricks and where can they be had? I've asked around a little bit and have been gettin "I dunno, we only have these" with a vague gesture at the standard red bricks. Will those work? or are fire bricks really something special? By the way the directions are for a coal forge.

Thanks
 
fire bricks can be obtained at most stores that sell wood stoves. typicly a yelloe/tan colored brick about 1 1/4 thick. last ones I bought to reline my stove were about 3 bucks each.
Arizona might not be the biggest wood stove market, but you can more than likely find a suppier online.
I have also had success making a small forge good enough to shoe horses with, out of a brake drum and an old hair drier for a fan. works well although only about a foot in diameter.
 
What are you using for the high temperature refractory cement? That seems to be the weak point with the guys I talk to.....
 
Firebrick are made from a different type of clay that can stand high temperatures without cracking/crumbling like regular brick. That's why they use it in forges, but also in foundries, fireplaces, and wood stoves. It is also used in chimneys/boilers for factories and power plants.

A check with any building/masonry supply place should lead you to some fire brick. And the big stores like Menards or Lowes should be able to get some if they don't have some on hand. You might also check out a POTTERY place. If they are firing their own pots, they should have firebrick on hand or know a source.

The only company I remember from the last time I ordered some ceramic putty is a place called A P Green. A web search should find them.

You might also check out the Links/Sources section of most blacksmith organizations web sites. They usually have a pretty good list of suppliers. Groups like ABANA (Artist Blacksmith Association of North America), BAM (Blacksmith Association of Missouri), AFC (Alabama Forge Council), the Texas Blacksmith Association, UMBA (Upper Midwest Blacksmith Association), IFORGE, ANVILEFIRE, and any number of other groups.

But your best bet in your area would be to contact someone who does masonry work - especially fireplaces. Next would be the Pottery/Ceramic places. Then anybody working on powerplants and/or factory boilers/incinerators. SOmetimes they might even have some old/used firebrick laying about from a previous repair job - possibly even for free.

There are two types of firebrick out there. One is fairly light and somewhat soft. The other is heavy and hard. You will probably want the heavy/hard ones. Those soft ones break/crumble way too easily.

Hope this helps.

Mikey - yee ol' grumpy German blacksmith out in the Hinterlands
 
You don't need to get that elaborage to build a forge. My first forge was made from a truck brake drum, some flexible 2" diameter pipe, and a hair dryer bought at the flea market.

Another option if Tim lively's wash tub forge.

http://64.176.180.203/washtubforge.htm

Tim sells this as a kit, but an afternoon at the flea market should produce all of the components at a much better price. IMHO, one big advantage of this type of forge is that it is more versitile than many other designs, and it is portable.

Good luck,
J.D.
 
Hey Aaron,

I built one of those wash-tub forges out of scrap and powered it with a reversed shop vac for a fan. Used it for quite while I lined it with a mix of clay, ash and lime. Worked fine for shaping stuff, but the liner made for a lot of clinkers which made it tough to weld. Heck, its hard to hit welding heat at 8000 ft above sea level anyway. I'll try to e-mail you a picture later.

Dangerous thing, getting involved with that blacksmithing stuff, as its stinky and turns you into a dirty scrounger. Your wife will love that.

:grin:

Sean
 
My first forge was made from an old gas grill and a hair dryer as a blower. It didn't look like much but I did manage to reach welding heat with it. Some of the gas forge designs on the internet have caught my eye and I'll probably end up building one of those at some point.
 
If you look on you tube for charcoal forge making they have some good info to , good luck with it and show use what you made
 
Thanks guys, I haven't actually tried a real masonary store yet, and I know of some fireplace stores that I can hit as well.

The plans for the washtub forge looks like it might be a good alternative.

Here's the one I am thinking of working off of.

Forge Link
 
The firebrick for lining the bottom is the better way to go, but not that necessary. A lot depends upon how expensive the firebrick end up being, and how much you will be using your forge.

The simple solution is finding and using some local "clay" type dirt near you. Just sift out any rocks, wet it down, pack it in, and smooth it out. Yes, it will crack when drying and in use. And you can poke/gouge it when working in your fire. But it's also pretty easy to patch.

The other way is to just use cement. Pick up a bag of the pre-mixed concrete from the farm/building supply store. Get the Sand Mix -- no rocks in it. They usually run 3 to 5 bucks for a 60 pound bag. Mix it up into a thick "putty", and pack/smooth it in. Start your first fire in it slowly. It will be just as tough/hard as those firebrick. But it might crack, and will eventually start to crumble a little in use. A patch is easy to do - just mix a bit more of that concrete pre-mix and putty it in.

Just another option to consider.

Mikey - yee ol' grumpy German blacksmith out in the Hinterlands
 
Mike Ameling said:
Get the Sand Mix -- no rocks in it.


How come no rocks? Not to be to big a cheap skate but I have about 4 bags of pre-mix not doing anything right now. I could sift the rocks out if that would work.
 
rocks can hold moisture and can explode under heat.
kinda like not making a fire ring while camping, using rocks from the creek.
my best input!
 
Sorry for going a bit off-topic, but what do you guys use for an anvil? The ones I've seen are pretty expensive.
 
If you have any junk yards in your area check and see if they get or have any round or square 5-6" shafting , you can stick one end in a bucket and and pour concrete in it to hold in place and add some weight. Ideal height should come up to the knuckles of your hand with your arm straight down at your side. A pc of heavy steel I-beam could also be used clamped or bolted to a stand of some sort, or maybe a pc of railroad rail . Other option is buy a old anvil at auction or _bay be warned as they can be pricey. New well made ones will really break the bank. Harbour freight sells some cheap imports but they arn't the best and you will ding it up pretty quick from my understanding
 
I was planning on using some I-beam that I have. At least until I get to the point I either decide I don't really want to pursue blacksmithing any further or decide that I have to get the biggest best... :hmm: just what I need....another hobby.
:shake: (that's my wife in the background by the way) :grin:
 
Anvils are highly skilled tools, and not just a funny looking rock. If you are really interested in blacksmithing, then its worth looking around the used tool sale catalogs and haunting the farm auctions to find a good OLD anvil. Or you can buy a good new anvil from suppliers Like Centaur Forge in Wisconsin. If you are just going to do a few projects, then by all means use any kind of steel surface you can find that is cheap. I have done small projects with a large hammer, and the small " anvil " surface on the back of my bench vise! A piece of RR track would be my next choice, or preference. A chunk of I-beam can serve you well for small projects, if the steel is thick enough.

A good anvil provides you with a " Flat, Smooth " surface, something that is not found in nature. Getting a surface flat and smooth, and even across the width and length of the piece was why anvils were invented, long before we had steel mills with rolling and stamping mills. A good anvil will be made of cast steel, and will be hardened, and Tempered, so that it will not chip when hit. If you heat the surface of an anvil up too hot, for too long a time, you can remove the temper from that spot, or from the entire anvil, and ruin it.

Most blacksmiths will grind and file some of the edges to give them certain curved surfaces for various kinds of projects that they routinely work on. Old time blacksmiths would be horrified that anyone would do this to an anvil, because they would solve the problem for some forming jig or hammer, or die, by making it as a separate tool, to be held in a vise, or even as a hardie in the anvil. If you buy a good anvil, either new or used, take care of it. Its will keep its value all of your lie, and your grandchildren's lives. But, first learn how to use it properly. There are blacksmithing schools around the country. If you are interested in the wide variety of anvils available and their individual uses, get a copy of the catalog for Centaur Forge. The company had more than 30 different anvils for sale when I first bought a catalogue from them 35 years ago.
 
Keep in mind a piece of I-beam just clamped to something is going to ring--Loudly, when you strike it. So you might want to wear hearing protection. Don't ask how I know :shake: Huh,what ya say...
 
I belive the one knife making book I got awhile ago had a pic of a Ibeam anvil a guy was working with and he welded some heavy steel plate on the inside to give it more weight and deaden the ring
 
I believe that ear plugs, or muffs should be worn any time you are pounding iron or steel, and wearing a breather mask is probably an equally good idea. I have custom made ear plugs made for me by the BelTone( Hearing aid) people locally. They have proven to be the most comfortable ear protection I have tried, and therefore I am likely to wear them. Ear muffs are okay, but give me a headache in about an hour. I see factory workers using ear plugs that are pink in color and attached to strings, so they can be hung around their necks when not being used. OSHA must know something we didn't learn soon enough! The vivid color is to make it easier for supervisors to see if you are complying with safety rules, I am sure. Its in the company's best interest, as well as your own.

I wear glasses, so I have not mentioned the need to wear safety glasses or goggles whenever you are pounding steel, or working around hot steel. It is another " Must Do". Forget those old pictures of blacksmiths working without a shirt on, no glasses, or other protections. Long sleeve shirts you can sacrifice are always in order, as are thick, long, wrist covering gloves. Being burned a few times by flying sparks of steel is all it takes for most people to learn his lesson permanently.

I learned a tip about using anvils years ago, talking to an old, Amish, blacksmith, after he demonstrated how to use a forge and anvil to make a small, souvenire horseshoe for a kid, at Rockhome Gardens, near Chesterville, Illinois. I had seen him alternating striking the hot steel with his hammer, and then the top of the anvil, while the work was moved from one position on the anvil to another. I asked him if he was just doing that as part of the show or did he have a more practical reason?

He told me that he was "Listening to his Anvil", so that he didn't heat up any spot on the anvil enough to anneal( soften ) it. As the anvil heats up, the pitch of the anvil's ring begins to drop a little, like a guitar string that is going out of tune. I doubt, with modern steels, that one has to be that concerned about " burning " an anvil's surface enough to produce a soft spot, but he showed one of the three anvils he had in the shop, that had a corner that had been annealed by some prior owner, who held the work on the corner too long. While the rest of the anvil was flat, smooth, and shiny, this corner was discolored, and showed some scratches and one gouge, or dent, that indicated it had been hit with something. He told me he bought the anvil, which was more than 100 years old in the early 1970s, from the guy, anyway, since the rest of the anvil was good, but he paid a lot less for it because of the damaged done. The rest of the anvil, and his other two anvils, other than having a good coating of black soot, and oil all over them, looked as good and shiney as the day they left the foundry that made them. These were indsutrical sized anvils, that weighed from 120-150 lbs. They make them even bigger, but the small ones you find at farm sales, usually weigh about 60 lbs, and are made of cast iron, with a thin 3/8-1/2" plate of steel welded to the casting to provide the top surface. They are okay for light work. If you want to make Bowie knives or swords on a regular basis, I think you want to find one of the cast STEEL anvils.
 
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