• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Making a Spring

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

PreserveFreedom

40 Cal.
Joined
Aug 13, 2011
Messages
206
Reaction score
3
I will be building a lock this winter and I need to know how to make a spring. Please be specific...what material and process is involved? A picture is worth 1,000 words. I don't want to resort to having to use a coil spring unless I have to.
 
Check with Track of da Wolf, look for the spring making booklet by Kit Ravensheer. It has everything you need to learn step by step. Think it's less than $10.

Bill
 
Brownells catalog #64 page 387 has a written discription. No pictures.

steve
 
The quickest way is to follow Kit R's book. It uses purchased stock and is pretty straightforward.
If you want to forge a spring,I have done several including about 8 hours ago. I will spare the details until I hear what you prefer.
 
I have had good results using Dixie gun works spring stock, I heat it cherry red to form it. Then heat it until a magnet doesn't stick, quench in used motor oil, then wrap it in aluminum foil and let it set in my lead pot pushed under the lead at just melting temp for an hour then air cooled. :hmm:
 
Just got done making a 1600's safety spring today, on top of many in the last 10 years......

I use 1095 in the annealed state for starters, as it is very tough and very forgiving IMO.

I machined a Snaphaunce safety spring, bent it to desired shape using MAPP gas, then went through a simple process.

I bent the initial shape by getting it just getting to "Light Orange" without any sparkle and just progressively getting it to the desired form.

I then sanded with a fine file and 220 grit to get a blank canvas so to speak, then took it to just a bright orange right past cherry- 1095 can handle (and likes IMO) a water quench (motor/linseed etc.)is not "fast" enough and cools too slowly. Certain alloys like an oil quench, but 1095 works great with water. I then hit with 220, and bring it to a blue/gray, and let the gray color just sneak up on the blue before I stop the heat and let it air cool.
1095 is extremely forgiving, and super tough when done right.
This is just the tip of the iceberg here!
 
Back
Top