Making a tapered/flared end ramrod

[Flint62Smoothie]

... the hard part is holding the drill motor in my left hand and the rasp or gouge in my right hand.

FWIW I use a similar end block/jig/setup like you do, but I go outside to my deck railing and I use C-Clamps to hold the end block and a large ratchet clamp to hold the drill. That also makes getting rid of all the shavings and/or sanding dust easy too, where I'll just sweep it all off the deck ... no dust collector in my basement work shop, lol!

 

[deerstalkert]

FWIW I use a similar end block/jig/setup like you do, but I go outside to my deck railing and I use C-Clamps to hold the end block and a large ratchet clamp to hold the drill. That also makes getting rid of all the shavings and/or sanding dust easy too, where I'll just sweep it all off the deck ... no dust collector in my basement work shop, lol!

i remember when you posted pictures of that setup. the only thing i don't understand is the part about cleaning up!!??

 

[FlinterNick]

You need a dowel cutter, start with the small end at and work up the taper. Once you have your desired taper and it fits the pipes (snug fit). Then I sand down with a drill or lathe and 60 - 100 gr paper.

Dowel cutter plates are around 50$.

 

[Rob M.]

I love my tapered ramrods but they sure are a bear to make ! LOL ... I start off with 1/2" hickory rod if I get them from Log Cabin or a 5/8" or there about square I split off a straight grain hickory board I got from the Amish saw mill ... I use a froe and split me off a piece .... Then knock the corners off with heavy rasp.... Then , either type , I take the rod down from 1/2" to 5/16" with rasp ...takes about 2 hrs. or a bit more ... They take awhile but look and work great ! I've done a few after dropping the tree but ... LOL ...thats abit much for each build.

 

[Crow#21957]

Looks like you done a nice job on the build. I like it. Good luck on the ramrod issue.

 

[FlinterNick]

I love my tapered ramrods but they sure are a bear to make ! LOL ... I start off with 1/2" hickory rod if I get them from Log Cabin or a 5/8" or there about square I split off a straight grain hickory board I got from the Amish saw mill ... I use a froe and split me off a piece .... Then knock the corners off with heavy rasp.... Then , either type , I take the rod down from 1/2" to 5/16" with rasp ...takes about 2 hrs. or a bit more ... They take awhile but look and work great ! I've done a few after dropping the tree but ... LOL ...thats abit much for each build.

An easy way to taper a ramrod is with two 2x4’s with, wedged together with sand paper between and then putting the ramrod end in drill.

 

[Rob M.]

The gap between the nose cap and the ramrod is normal. I don't see why it bothers you, the whole reason the fore stock of most long rifles and muskets taper down at the nose cap is to "clear" the ram rod making it easier to grip the ram rod when extracting or re-inserting it in the ram rod channel.

Exactly...

 

[Rob M.]

I sanded down a larger ramrod to have a more flared end on the ramrod for the larger bore size.
Ohio Rusty ><>
View attachment 202431

Very well done...

 

[Rob M.]

Your quite right in your thinking . All you need to do is make a tapered ramrod and I believe you will be happy with the look and results . There is no need to alter your firearm . I love tapered ramrods on my builds . They work and look great . All I use to make them is a rasp and sand paper for clean up . Its not hard to do ... Holler at me if you need any help

 

[NorthFork]

@TarponStalker

Uhmmm....... that gap is normal on various schools of build. I see nothing wrong with what you did.

 

[old corporal]

Thanks Brokennock.
Here’s a “not so great” photo of this rifle. It’s my first attempt at inletting inlays so not perfect. But it’s a nice gun that shoots well.
View attachment 202413

looks great to me!!!

 

[Flintandsteel]

Why in the world would you shorten the barrel just because your web is too thick?
Learn from this and move on.
And NO, that gap is not normal.