Making lubed felt C&B revolver wads

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duelist1954

40 Cal.
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In this video I'll show cap and ball shooters how to save a lot of money by making their own lubricated felt cap & ball revolver wads. The video shows how I make my black powder lube, and how I make lubed cap and ball revolver wads. Then we'll load an Uberti 1860 Army revolver using our homemade wads and do some shooting.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YgNVPC2wmWI
 
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some good info there. lanolin is available at most pharmacys though. that and beeswax is what I use.
I also checked out more of your vids listed there - thanks for some good in-depth testing, I have an ROA also.
 
I read up on and ordered the ingredients for Gatofeo's lube, which adds paraffin. What would be the biggest difference between these 2?

How long did you let your soaked felt dry before you began punching wads?

I'm also planning on trying it out as a bullet lube down here in the Texas heat. Would you change up the 2 parts paraffin, 2 parts tallow, 1 part beeswax mix for that?
 
If I might just jump in here and offer an answer to your questions, adding paraffin only makes the lube more "stiff" and heat resistant. Too much and it gets too hard and is hard to work with. Paraffin will make it more heat resistant for when you are shooting in the stiffling heat of a Texas summer.

As for the specific mix, you just have to try a basic recipe and see how it works for you and how it does in the Texas heat. If it is gooey and makes a mess, just ad a bit more paraffin or bees wax. Paraffin is a bit stiffer than bees wax and will make a harder final product.

As for how long to let your felt "dry", just until the lube cools and sets up. The felt doesn't really "dry", it just cools and the lube sets up. Usually only a few minutes. When it reaches room temperature, it is ready.

I make my wads just like he does except I use a different lubricant. Mine consists of bear grease and bees wax. I use mine in my rifles. BTW, you can get a really good custom made punch to your exact specifications for a lot less money by ordering from one of the forum members who goes by the name of Ohio Ramrod. Look him up by going to the "members" section and typing in Ohio Ramrod.
 
So it sounds as though the paraffin will do me well. I guess I'll just have to try the lube with those ratios. In the lube grooves I don't see how it melting or softening would really be much of a problem. Where could it go?

I'm curious if anyone uses lubed wads instead of lubing the grooves?

I have yet to purchase my punches, but had figured I would get them from Harbor Freight. A set costs under $10 with tax. It seems they are highly recommended.

I intend on getting a .50 cal rifle, and possibly a .36 pistol too so it made sense to buy a set. Especially for that price. Most single punches run twice that and more.
 
I'd go light on the parrafin, as it does stiffen it up a lot. I find that my tallow/wax lube works well even in really hot, humid conditions. I use it for wads, as a patch lube for rifles, and in my Lubrisizer for black powder cartridges.
 
Nice!

Your videos were some I watched when I first ordered my Pietta Navy.
I needed to learn how to load it. Your videos are great.
I also liked the video on the PA-63, my first ever handgun.
Keep up the good work.
 
I use Gatofeo's lube as is. I think the stiffer wads from the paraffin are great. It's stiff enough to not be too messy on a hot day, and it helps keep fouling to a minimum.

I regularly shoot 100+ balls through my 1860 with nothing required of me but to load and shoot.
 
Hi,very interesting video.Now ,before felt wads there was Crisco.Could you just melt Crisco and pour it on the felt and make your wads?
 
I don't recommend using Crisco for any black powder application. Crisco has a very low melting point. It will turn liquid on even a moderately warm day and run into the powder charge, and it builds a sludgy fouling. Any lard or tallow will do you better than Crusco, but without some wax to stiffen it, it will still melt at too low a temperature to do a really good job.
 
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