Making verses buying balls

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georgeingraham

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When making balls using molds, seems like the results would leave a mold line/bump around the ball..

If true, seems like that mold line would have effects on loading, and firing ??
 
All my molds fit tight and I have never seen a casting line around the ball. You do have a spure...flat area at the top but in soft lead it smooths out as loading when the rr tip is curved. At the risk of restarting the short starter debate I will say this about ss. It has nothing to do with when the ss was first used in america.. but a curved tip on a ss will generaly knock the spur out with the first tap into the barrel.
With traditional sights I can not see a difference between cast and swagged balls. The boys that are compeating for the smallest possible group and whiegh out their charges and have to shoot ball with in less the 1 grain differenc in weight need evrything as uniform as possible to get their best. I shoot out of a bag with a thrown charge into a wood or horn charger and cast vs swagged makes no differnce to me.
 
I used a lee mold for years, when a line started showing I got a new one. I find little difference between mine and Hornadys.

Did you also know that when you wear or mess something up from Lee, they'll replace it at half cost? That's if they let you, most times they replace it as "under warranty" even if you are admittedly to blame. With a set up like that you can't go wrong.

Making your own is also a part of self reliance. Isn't one of the beauties of Black Powder shooting an independence from the gun industry and government? It also takes you to a time you had to do for yourself. :hatsoff:
 
Over the years I've dabbled in mold making and casting for all sorts of things, both in lead and resin, so I'm familiar with the slight mold line that usually occurs. I have several Lee twin-cavity RB molds, and I'm amazed at how well they fit and the general lack of mold lines. Occasionally, I might see the odd line, but I've got to look very hard to find it. In my case it's a non-issue.
 
I think weight and consistent roundness are the 2 most critical things .Curt
 
Very tiny mold block lines I don't worry about.If the lines are more prominent, I measure the ball orienting the jaws of the calipers on the ball the same way the mold blocks hold it. If the increase in diameter is less than one or two thousandths, I don't care. Nor do I care about minor surface wrinkles. But I will inspect the surfaces of the blocks where they meet for ANY trace of lead or something that might keep the mold blocks from fitting up tightly together, and monitor the situation carefully.If the problem worsens, I will replace the mold. I have only had to do this once, and since it was a Lee mold, the expense was minimal. I also lightly tumble my bullets with a very small pinch of graphite, which is an excellent way to prevent surface oxidation, which can form over time if they are not used for months or years. By the way, if removing something stuck on the mold block faces, use some tool that is softer than the block material to prevent scratching.
 
Casting yer own is, to me, part of the game. Most serious shooters do make their own. There is a cost savings for those who shoot a lot. Cast balls are used by the champions. Draw yer own conclusions.
 
If I see a mold line or fin, I know that something is keeping the blocks from completely closing. It's usually a film of hardened lead around an alignment pin.
 
smoothshooter said:
Very tiny mold block lines I don't worry about.If the lines are more prominent, I measure the ball orienting the jaws of the calipers on the ball the same way the mold blocks hold it. If the increase in diameter is less than one or two thousandths, I don't care. Nor do I care about minor surface wrinkles. But I will inspect the surfaces of the blocks where they meet for ANY trace of lead or something that might keep the mold blocks from fitting up tightly together, and monitor the situation carefully.If the problem worsens, I will replace the mold. I have only had to do this once, and since it was a Lee mold, the expense was minimal. I also lightly tumble my bullets with a very small pinch of graphite, which is an excellent way to prevent surface oxidation, which can form over time if they are not used for months or years. By the way, if removing something stuck on the mold block faces, use some tool that is softer than the block material to prevent scratching.
I throw all my round balls into my brass tumbler for reloading modern rounds, This removes any over casting lines and often times removes the spru as well, it makes for a percession grade round ball then it time to mic and weigh then and if not right back in the pot they go. Give my trick a shot if ya want near perfect round balls, works very well on maxi's as well.
 
I have never had a mold line on my cast slugs, round ball or for my more modern antiques, but I do get the flat sprue. I was always told to just load the ball with the sprue at the top, the loading process will round it out some and what is left is centered in the forward portion of the ball as it is fired, or that is the theory. The old timers used molds and cast their own ball, and they did wonders with those firearms, so why shouldn't we expect the same results? My main problem is where I live and availability of commercial round ball, there just isn't any place close to purchase them so casting my own became more of a necessity then a preference.
 
georgeingraham said:
When making balls using molds, seems like the results would leave a mold line/bump around the ball..
Nope, not a problem. If there is a die line then there's a minor detail the guy making the ball needs to adjust. There is a learning curve but it's short.

If true, seems like that mold line would have effects on loading, and firing ??

There is the sprue and that's loaded facing forward.
I can cast ball that are more consistent in weight than any available factory made ball.
My only regret about casting my own ball is that I didn't start sooner. :wink:
 
"I can cast ball that are more consistent in weight than any available factory made ball."

I wish I could say the same. Unfortunately, I can't. But, I still cast my own balls and just cull those that are out of spec. I probably get about 70% to 75% (just a guess) that ate within spec. The rest go back into the pot to be given another chance to get it right. :haha:
 
Yeah, Ok, I guess I do have a cull rate of around 15%, all casting flaws that are usually operator error,
But it's no big deal, they just go back in the pot next melt.
 
I don't have many culls at all any more, for the most part. I've been casting for over 40 years though. I get some in the beginning usually but not many because I preheat my mould. Once I get going I usually don't get any unless something messes up my rhythm. I might add that I don't weigh my RBs so if they look good on the outside, I call them good.
Once in awhile I get a mould that doesn't cooperate and I have a difficult time. I have a couple that no matter what I do I get few good ones but they aren't RB moulds which are easy compared to bullet or conical moulds.
 
The balls I cast and then tumble are at least as accurate as both Hornaday and Speer commercial balls I have tried.
These are all cast from Lee molds. I like the small sprues that almost disappear when tumbled. Mike D.
 
2 Tall..

When you tumble, do you add anything to the mix besides the balls "

As mentioned by others, my reasons for making my own are the same... Old school, and traditional, and spending the quality time..

Thanks for all the replies guys !
 
You don't need to add anything. Some people even throw there RBs in a metal tin and put it under the seat of their vehicle. After a week or so of driving around and the balls rolling, they get the same effect.
 
I tumble mine by hand by putting them in one of the small plastic snap on lid type coffee containers that coffee comes in with just a tiny pinch of powdered graphite as mentioned earlier. Then I sit down outside where the noise won't drive everyone else crazy, and just shake and rattle the container around for five or ten minutes, and call it good.
 
If you have a good mold, the separation line would be very minimal. I have been using hand molded balls for years and haven't noticed a problem with the line throwing anything off. It is far cheaper to mold my own. Its kinda fun too, especially when the neighbors or neighborhood kids come by and ask what you are doing. It turns into some very interesting conversations and some impromptu history lessons. lol
 
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