Matchlock pan & cover

[tom in nc]

I ask in another thread but probably should ask in it's own thread...so using a barrel that was originally a percussion barrel, with the drum removed, how should I attach the pan & cover, that I will be making?
And how should the cover and flash guard be attached so the cover will pivot as needed? Screw or bolt with a locking nut of some type? Thanks

 

[tom in nc]

Looking at this pic I see this pan & cover is part of the lock plate. I believe it would be much less complicated to make the pan, cover, & shield a separate assy. What do you all think?

 

[TobJohn]

Pan and covers being part of the lock plate are mostly only a thing (with exceptions) at the beginning and the end of the (non snapping) matchlock era. In Europe, they were often dovetailed to the barrel.

 

[Flint62Smoothie]

... they were often dovetailed to the barrel.

Yes, a shallow but verticle dovetail.

 

[TobJohn]

For the flash guard, I saw an interesting method on a reproduction. A thin strip of metal was bent around a central shaft for the screw, kind of like making a flag out of a strip of paper and a pencil. It seems like one of the easier solutions, without forging.

 

[Pukka Bundook]

Tom,
I answered with a pic on your other thread.
Tob,
Mine is solid and drilled for a screw. just files to shape.

 

[Commodore Swab]

Easiest way to "get r done" would be weld the pan on, drill a hole place a rivit (nail) and peen it on both ends ensuring to grind the weld smooth.

 

[Billy-by-gosh]

I ask in another thread but probably should ask in it's own thread...so using a barrel that was originally a percussion barrel, with the drum removed, how should I attach the pan & cover, that I will be making?
And how should the cover and flash guard be attached so the cover will pivot as needed? Screw or bolt with a locking nut of some type? Thanks

The pan itself could be dovetailed into the barrel, or soft-soldered in place if preferred. Soft-soldering b/c I don't like high heat applied to the breech section of a barrel where it could weaken the metal. Pans attached to a lockplate came about much later.
The early pan covers were often riveted using copper or brass - that allows secure attachment & were simple to adjust (screws came into use later). Look up Michael Tromner (aka Matchlock) posts on Vikingsword to get more ideas!

 

[Billy-by-gosh]

I failed to notice that your barrel was previously threaded for a drum. In that case, it might be possible to make up a pan assembly that could simply thread into the existing threaded location FWIW.

 

[TobJohn]

Go full old school and cast a bronze barrel with an integral pan.

 

[tom in nc]

I failed to notice that your barrel was previously threaded for a drum. In that case, it might be possible to make up a pan assembly that could simply thread into the existing threaded location FWIW.

I've already thought about starting with the drum and making the pan assy from it.

 

[Commodore Swab]

I've already thought about starting with the drum and making the pan assy from it.

Figure out the thread size and screw in a stud then thread the pan and screw it on.

 

[Pukka Bundook]

Billy,
Some very early locks were made with integral pans as well.
Then hey went out of use for a hundred years pretty well.

One I made, (Snapping) I soldered the pan on as Billy says. Soft solder and never any bothers.
Soft solder if done clean is Very strong.

 

[Pukka Bundook]

Tom,
You may have trouble using the drum to screw the pan on, as this is exactly where you want the touchhole.

 

[tom in nc]

Here's my drum. The threads appear to be good as do the threads in the barrel. I'm drawing up my idea(s) for the pan & cover now. I will post it/them soon and see what you guys & gals(?)think. Thanks for your help.

 

[Commodore Swab]

Tom,
You may have trouble using the drum to screw the pan on, as this is exactly where you want the touchhole.

Run a stud, the stud threads into the vent hole. Take and thread a block. Screw the block onto the stud, weld the block to the stud. Unscrew the block and stud from the barrel. Drill the vent thru the stud. Cut the block down to shape, anywhere the stud is exposed weld clean. Screw the new "pan bolt" into the barrel, it should be aligned as you started by welding to the stud aligned . . .

 

[tom in nc]

I couldn't figure out a way of using the drum that I liked, so I will probably reinstall it, and drill it for the touch hole. Although I will probably not use the barrel I now have. My drawings are crude but here is what I've come up with so far. I think starting with a block like shown in the top drawing, drilling the hole, which will be the pan, then sawing the block in half will be the best way to create the channel to be the pan as shown in the bottom drawing. What do you think. Then I will figure out the cover & shield.

 

[tom in nc]

Run a stud, the stud threads into the vent hole. Take and thread a block. Screw the block onto the stud, weld the block to the stud. Unscrew the block and stud from the barrel. Drill the vent thru the stud. Cut the block down to shape, anywhere the stud is exposed weld clean. Screw the new "pan bolt" into the barrel, it should be aligned as you started by welding to the stud aligned . . .

That would work. Now I'm unsure if I will even proceed with this project.
It has been an unpleasant experience thus far.

 

[Pukka Bundook]

Tom,
Normally dovetails run out to the rear.

 

[tom in nc]

Tom,
Normally dovetails run out to the rear.

Meaning dovetails are tapered?