matchlock wood finishes

[kruzer1]

Just checking to see what sort of wood finishes we might expect to have on a 16th century Spanish matchlock?

I'm thinking of making a matchlock for my first full carve. Rather than possibly mess up the nice $160 cherry fullstock I was thinking of starting on the $20 piece of curly maple fullstock I have.

I'm afraid the curly maple may look out of place and I may need to darken the wood (unless someone can correct me on that, Europe did have "fire maple" ) :hmm: I know they used paint, but don't want to go that route.

 

[curator]

Of the two "authentic" Spanish matchlock muskets I have handled, one was of some kind of Oak, quite coarse grained and the other was Pecan, and similar to Walnut.

I made mine from "Bastone" which is a Walnut hybrid that is light in color and as similar to Pecan as is easily procured in the length and thickness needed. Linseed oil was the finish used when pieces were going to sea. It also discouraged wood borers and help to prevent stocks from soaking up dampness.

 

[Alden]

What about coating/burning it repeatedly with Aqua Fortis and then boiled linseed later if you're using maple anyway...

 

[Treestalker]

Exactly So! The repeated applications of aquafortis stain and heat will darken the maple to nearly black in my experience. Hand rubbed with tung oil (better than linseed) it will look just medieval as all get out. Don't forget to kill the acid stain with a light wash of sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) a tablespoonful in a glass of water stirred up and applied with a clean cloth will do fine. Dry it thoroughly before you apply the oil. George B.

 

[kruzer1]

Thanks everyone for the input- I will do that with the aqua fortis and linseed oil.

I now don't feel so bad about starting a carve on curly maple knowing I can get it looking reasonably period looking (and save the expensive cherry for the escopeta miquelet project down the line)!

 

[Wes/Tex]

Of the two "authentic" Spanish matchlock muskets I have handled, one was of some kind of Oak, quite coarse grained and the other was Pecan, and similar to Walnut.

What you thought was oak may actually been Curly Ash, a similar grained hard wood that was use through out Europe for gun stocks in the 17th & 18th centuries. I know that Narragansett Armes did some research and used this on a snaphance version of a Dutch musket or ear;y English style.

 

[Alden]

Oak was the most prevalent wood on Escopetas I understand. Hence mine...

 

[Alden]

I like tung too but everyone seems hung up on linseed, so, boiled linseed it is. As to drying...

Less is more! Wipe on, wipe off. As long as you think it takes something to dry, double the time -- trust me. Not the Aqua Fortis (which actually colors the wood honey from iron), but it can be weeks between coats of oil to penetrate and dry fully. And linseed gets gummy if not dry -- do not make the mistake of the impatient and inexperienced but learn from me...

...um, I mean from us and know it will be months to finish a stock truly well IMO.

 

[kruzer1]

I can go either way on tung or boiled linseed.

I don't mind the thought of taking months finishing a stock right

Oh here is what I am thinking of building for my matchlock:

 

[rickystl]

Hi Kruzer1. Here is another option to get a stock finish with that almost black look. This is a 1690's French pistol built with parts from TRS. I bought this from the builder. I ask him what he used for a stain. He said Black India Ink. :hmm:
Well, it does produce that dark/blackish look.
But I like George and Alden's option better.
I don't know what India Ink would do to maple? And I don't remember what the wood on the pistol stock is. And I'm not good enough at wood identification to tell by looking. Maybe one of you guys can tell me?
George and Alden: Thanks for the tip using the Aqua Fortis as per above. I think I'm going to use that on my Spanish rifle build I'm going to consign in October. Rick. :hatsoff:

 

[Tinker2]

Shoe dye works.




William Alexander

 

[DickS]

I used a charcoal wood stain, then applied shellac. Looked good.

 

[Treestalker]

The wood finish on the pistol looks like a couple of hackbutts I made some years back. I made the stocks from hickory, then scorched the wood with a torch. After a light sanding and whiskering with steel wool, I applied some walnut finish stain and let it dry. Then I hand rubbed boiled linseed oil which contained dryers. The wood grain on the pistol in the photo looks like walnut without filler. But the hickory looked Very similar. George B.

 

[Tinker2]

I used a charcoal wood stain, then applied shellac. Looked good.

How about grinding your own with a Chinese ink stick?


Chinese ink stick


Tinker2

 

[rickystl]

Thanks George. My guess was walnut also. Just doesn't look like maple. Thanks. Rick. :hatsoff: