Guest
Inquiring minds and all that. ::
As I've said some of you reprobates have ruined me by talking so much about period correct rifles, and FLINT! no less, have gotten me hoplelessly hooked on the things. Not only flint, but you have to shoot those funny looking globes of leaded wrapped in an old t-shirt, not proper bullets!
Now I have 4 flinters, one a Lyman G.P. in .54 the other three period correct that I got from Master Keith Lisle who goes by the alias of birddog6 in an effort to hide his true identity as a master at the trade. :applause:
In any event there is a purpose to this diatribe.
I don't know all that much about guns that you load with stones to make them shoot.
Here's the questions for you more seasoned veterans, or anyone else that want's to venture an opinion.
I've read that if you turn a loaded and charged flinter upside down, pull the trigger and it fires the lock is pronounced "good".
Why is this?
Why would anyone shoot one upside down in the 1st place?
Will a well made, properly charged flinter fire nearly as fast as a capper?
My Bedford style .45 seems to fire as well as any of my cap locks. It's also more accurate than ANY of my cappers.
I have yet to shoot the Lilse built Jeager .58 and Bucks .40 but I plan on getting that done as soon as I get some decent weather and time off work.
("WORK" the most dreaded 4 letter word in the English language) :curse:
I've also read that a really good charged flinter can be submerged under water briefly and not wet the prime charge. True? And NO I won't put my flinters in the creek to try this!
Also, when hunting, should one occasionally dump the pan charge and reprime to ensure the thing will go BOOOOM when bambi appears?
I've read that one should carry the thing with a tooth pick in the vent hole to keep it open but it seems like that's inviting trouble if the toothpick breaks off in the vent you now have a club! :haha:
Well these questions orta keep ya busy!
Thank you,
flinter novice
As I've said some of you reprobates have ruined me by talking so much about period correct rifles, and FLINT! no less, have gotten me hoplelessly hooked on the things. Not only flint, but you have to shoot those funny looking globes of leaded wrapped in an old t-shirt, not proper bullets!
Now I have 4 flinters, one a Lyman G.P. in .54 the other three period correct that I got from Master Keith Lisle who goes by the alias of birddog6 in an effort to hide his true identity as a master at the trade. :applause:
In any event there is a purpose to this diatribe.
I don't know all that much about guns that you load with stones to make them shoot.
Here's the questions for you more seasoned veterans, or anyone else that want's to venture an opinion.
I've read that if you turn a loaded and charged flinter upside down, pull the trigger and it fires the lock is pronounced "good".
Why is this?
Why would anyone shoot one upside down in the 1st place?
Will a well made, properly charged flinter fire nearly as fast as a capper?
My Bedford style .45 seems to fire as well as any of my cap locks. It's also more accurate than ANY of my cappers.
I have yet to shoot the Lilse built Jeager .58 and Bucks .40 but I plan on getting that done as soon as I get some decent weather and time off work.
("WORK" the most dreaded 4 letter word in the English language) :curse:
I've also read that a really good charged flinter can be submerged under water briefly and not wet the prime charge. True? And NO I won't put my flinters in the creek to try this!
Also, when hunting, should one occasionally dump the pan charge and reprime to ensure the thing will go BOOOOM when bambi appears?
I've read that one should carry the thing with a tooth pick in the vent hole to keep it open but it seems like that's inviting trouble if the toothpick breaks off in the vent you now have a club! :haha:
Well these questions orta keep ya busy!
Thank you,
flinter novice