Melting lead

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BJC

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I am thinking about getting a Lyman electric lead melting pot for around $80 at Cabela's but cant I melt lead just as easy and cheaper on the stove in a heavy pot?

How do you melt your lead? Is a stove hot enough to melt lead?
 
The stove would work, depends on your better half.

I have had good luck with Lee production pots, more economical than Lyman. I prefer the bottom pour for ease of use. I have three, two 10# and one 20#. Hve had one of the 10s for close to thirty years, still works good. YMMV
 
I wouldn't melt lead in doors at all. And I too, have had very good luck with Lee products.
 
I have used a Lee pot and it worked fine. I have also used the kitchen stove, but make sure you have excellent ventilation, to include a vent hood with strong suction and a fan going. A cheaper solution that the Lyman, and if the wife won't let you use the kitchen, is a electric hot plate and just plug it in outside. Now just as fair warning, mine will melt lead, but just barely, if it is below freezing, and doesn't get the lead hot enough for good mold fill out when the temps get that cold. Works fine for casting in nice weather though.

Now for the warning. Do NOT use an aluminum pot for this! Use a small steel pot, even if it is the size of a coffee cup. Aluminum has a melting temp that, while higher than lead, is close enough that when lead is melted, your pot is getting soft and malleable. As in, you pick up the pot and the bottom stays on the burner while the sides lift and you just spilled lead all over your kitchen AND YOURSELF.
 
I have an old plumbers pot (iron pot) that I use on a Coleman Stove to melt the really crappy sewer line lead and then flux, skim and cast into ingots for my Lee furnace.

I wouldn't do it on the kitchen stove. Especially because ours is radiant electric. ;-)
 
Stumpkiller said:
I have an old plumbers pot (iron pot) that I use on a Coleman Stove to melt
Yup me too, but I don't have really dirty lead so I don't make ingots,, just dross, skim and cast from the same pot.
 
TNGhost said:
The stove would work, depends on your better half.

NEVER! use your kitchen stove or melt lead in your kitchen
Any pot not specifically designed for melting lead should be marked lead only and lead should be left in the pot.
 
Electric pot is easier and more convenient. I started many years ago with a pot on the stove and is fine with good ventilation. Outside or the garage is better. An old Coleman stove or a turkey fryer also works well or even a hot plate if it puts out enough juice. I finally switched to a Lee electric pot for convenience. I prefer the top pour myself because I have been doing that for so many years. Check out garage sales and thrift stores for old cast iron or steel pots.
 
I start by melting my scavenged lead (mostly lead roof jacks & flashing) in a cast iron pot on a propane turkey frier. I flux it heavy and clean it well before pouring into a Lyman ingot mold which makes 4 1lb ingots each throw. (At this time I will also mix some #2 alloy with the addition of lin-o-type as I cast 9mm, 40 and 357 & 45 gas check bullets.) Then when casting with a Lyman bottom pour it is easy to add lead that is already clean and lets me concentrate on the casting process. The art of keeping the mold at the right temperature is the key to running balls and minie's that are smooth and beautiful.
 
I use an electric pot ( Lee) for two reasons. 1. I can use it outside or in the shop. 2. It will keep an even temperature. :hmm:
 
Sir...let me inject this if I'm not too late! You need to go here...and order this pot:
http://waage.com/

I have cast THOUSANDS, and THOUSANDS of cast bullets for shooting BPCR through Sharps rifles the past 25 years and this pot has never failed me! Now...it is a 'ladle pouring' pot...not a bottom drop but you well cast better bullets using a ladle pot than a bottom drop! The Waage pot has a thermostat whereby it will maintain consistent temp and that is what one needs for cast consistent weight bullets!

"but you well cast better bullets using a ladle pot than a bottom drop"

As to regards the above statement....let me make this adjustment! Ladle pouring delivers EXCELLENT CAST bullets in the area of weights up to 500 grains and above....no contest! But...in bullet weights of 200-300 gr. range...the bottom drop pot will probably deliver good cast bullets! With the heavier bullets I know the ladle pots and methods work best!
 
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Don't ever process lead in food preparation areas.
When you are working with molten metals the materials do spread around.
 
Yes lead is poisonous. That is why it has gotten expensive and the government doesn't want us to have it, for our own good.
 
I melt in a small cast iron pot, and always leave some lead in it just so there can't be a mistake. An elective pot has tons of advantages. Doing in a small pot do sank batches maybe two lbs at a time, makes temp control easier. I run a lot of ball from a lead ladle only 5 balls or so at a time, but easy to control.
 
I have to agree with Jethro, I have the Lee Magnum Melter. It is very reasonable in price and is of good quality. Most important," It Works Great!" It holds temperature real well. I keep dial a little past the 7 number and that seems to be the magic setting to keep my lead at around 800 degrees. That is the casting temp. that seems to work the best for me when I cast RB. I periodically check my temp with a lead thermometer and the melter holds a constant temp. Jethro provided Midsouths website. That is where I bought mine. I checked other places before I purchased mine and Midsouth has the best price. Respectfully, cowboys1062. :thumbsup:
 
I have a Lee electric melting pot, but not the bottom-pour model. Perhaps it's better now, but we used to hear all the time about the opening getting either clogged or stuck open. So I went for the cheaper model that you need to use a dipper with. It works great and once you get the temperature adjusted to melt your lead well, it stays at a constant temperature.

That said, I have also cast balls using a small cast-iron cauldron over a wood fire when I used to volunteer at the 1750's fort at Explore Park in Virginia. It heats it up plenty hot and works fine. If you spend a lot of time doing it, you will find yourself moving the pot farther into or farther away from the fire to keep the right casting temperature, but for the most part you can just keep casting and it works.

Twisted_1in66 :thumbsup:
Dan
 
I've had good luck with Lee pots ... I own two of the bottom pour types. one did suffer the drip which they are supposed to have, but a bit of steel wool removed the burr, and it works fine. you should keep them half full or better for best consistency.

run ball out doors, or in a garage with the bay doors open.
wear long sleeves, and long pants.

also wear closed toed shoes (no sandals).

wear work gloves and if it's warm out, wear something (bandana or hat) to keep the errant drop of sweat from falling from your forehead onto the molten lead (where it will immediately turn to steam and, since steam is explosive, will spread an impressive splash of molten metal all over the area. this makes running ball much more exciting than it needs to be.

of course, do not eat or drink anything while running ball.

keep children and pets away - you don't need any distractions.

... just one guy's opinion ... free advice, and no doubt well worth the cost!
 

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