Metal Finishes

[Lobster John]

Anyone have formulas and instructions for a "greyed antique" metal finish like the one used by Mike Brooks in his gun building tutorial?

 

[Goldhunter]

There are a bunch of different ways to antique metal. Do a search, it'll turn up quite a few.

In Mike's tutorial he uses Laurel Mtn Forge Browner. The sweat box he uses produces humidity, neccessary for a good brown. From my reading of his lesson, he puts a coat on then lets it sit in the box, probably for the prescribed 3 hours that's on the bottom instructions). Does this three times. Then he lets it sit around outside the box for a couple days to let the rust work. Then he will just buff the rust off to expose the metal and the rust pits. (At least that's how I'd do it after reading his description, my best guess).

But do a search to turn up many different techniques. :thumbsup:

 

[pichou]

Some people use yellow mustard. I have even seen pics of a fake wrapped barrel done that way.

 

[William Joy]

I use a lot of "gray Finish" on engraved firearms:
Here a few options:
a)Mix full strengh nitric acid with water 1 to 10 and apply to in the white metal, then flush in fresh water. If you want a bit more sparkle use club soda to flush.
b) My favorite one: electroless nickel plate- and then blast with 500 grit aluminum oxide
Absolutely the best "Gray Finish"!!
c) Hot blue and then remove blue partial with Phosphoric acid or 32% Hydrochloric
d) in the white metal is abrasive blasted to color it gray - put black printers ink in the areas of engraving you want in a darker shade and bake in an oven at 300 for 3 hr to set ink.

 

[Mike Brooks]

I actually put a coat of LMF on once a day and let the parts sit in the sweat box untill I get back to them the next day. I do this for 3 days, then wire wheel off all the rust. Then hit the metal with a light coat of cheap cold blue and steel wool it back to the color I want.

 

[Goldhunter]

ahh. Gotcha. :grin:

 

[TNHillbilly]

Please explain what 'wrapped barrel' means, as in fake Damascus? That's what I'd like to do. Is the mustard in addition to something else..?

 

[Goldhunter]

No, just mustard (or anything with vinegar in it). You just dab it on, let it dry, then wash it off and repeat until desired finish. Dabbing it on makes little spots and peaks all over, gives it a mottled effect.

This is a poor example, but this is kind of what mustard will do. There are some really good rifle barrels on here that were done this way.

 

[TNHillbilly]

Could kinda look like Damscus and, when your done wipe it off with your hot dog...no waste! My wife will think I've totally lost it, dabbing mustard on my gun barrel!

 

[pichou]

Wrapped barrels were made from long strips that were wrapped in a spiral. Typical for Brit fowlers.

The imitations are done with painter's tape that is not pressed down too hard at the edges. The mustard goes on the gap and flows underneath a bit.

 

[gmww]

I actually put a coat of LMF on once a day and let the parts sit in the sweat box untill I get back to them the next day. I do this for 3 days, then wire wheel off all the rust. Then hit the metal with a light coat of cheap cold blue and steel wool it back to the color I want.

I'd like to see the results of this? I have a barrel that I'm trying to decide how to finish. Any photos? :hmm:

 

[TNHillbilly]

Neat idea, I must try that! Got a piece of barrel down in the shop. Of all my guns, I like the looks of my 1894 and '99 shotguns with the Damascus, or 'wrapped' barrels. I call them Damascus, I'm not really sure what is exactly meant by 'Damascus'.

 

[Capt. Jas.]

I actually put a coat of LMF on once a day and let the parts sit in the sweat box untill I get back to them the next day. I do this for 3 days, then wire wheel off all the rust. Then hit the metal with a light coat of cheap cold blue and steel wool it back to the color I want.

I'd like to see the results of this? I have a barrel that I'm trying to decide how to finish. Any photos? :hmm:

here ya go.
This is one Mike just finished for my son.
http://www.fowlingguns.com/newest.html

 

[mykeal]

I almost hate to post this -

I've used Mike Brooks' method (accidentally, without knowing it) and gotten outstanding results.

I did my GPR with LMF this past winter but was very unhappy with the results. My 'sweatbox' was a bathroom with a shower; I turned it on full hot and when the mirror fogged I applies the LMF. Waited the required 3 hours, did a second coat, carded and put it away for the night. Did another double application two days later, and a third two more days later. Stabilized with baking soda and was quite unhappy with the uneven finish - not nearly as good as my earlier jobs with Birchwood Casey's Plum Brown. I removed the LMF finish with steel wool and found a gorgeous gray antique finish underneath, like Mike's pictures.

I could have stopped there but I didn't like the color with the stain I had on the stock, plus I'd browned the furniture and it came out pretty nice. So, I did two more sessions with the LMF; at that point I had a very nice antiqued brown finish - not the deep chocolate of the Birchwood Casey but an antiqued gray/brown that looked just right with the stock color. Then I went back and stripped and re-browned the furniture to match.

I think you'll really like Mike's 'stripped LMF' look if antique grey is what you want.

 

[gmww]

I actually put a coat of LMF on once a day and let the parts sit in the sweat box untill I get back to them the next day. I do this for 3 days, then wire wheel off all the rust. Then hit the metal with a light coat of cheap cold blue and steel wool it back to the color I want.

I'd like to see the results of this? I have a barrel that I'm trying to decide how to finish. Any photos? :hmm:

here ya go.
This is one Mike just finished for my son.
http://www.fowlingguns.com/newest.html

:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

 

[Lobster John]

Thanks, Mike. I'll try it and let you know how it works for me.

Lobster John