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Must say no,Sharp Shooter.
Always take Ballistol.For me it is the best i know as rust preventor.
:hatsoff:
 
Count me amongst the Ballistol folks. I haven't tried mink oil but it seems to make an outstanding patch lube.
 
I prefer natural (and historically correct) lubes and rust preventers. Olive oil works great.

Ballistol contains petroleum, which I try to avoid using inside muzzleloader barrels.
[url] http://www.firehawktech.com/MSDS.pdf[/url]
 
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Maybe I just don't quite understand the whole muzzleloader/rondezvous/reenactor thing. I have been going to rondezvous for about 3 years now, and have attended 13 around the state of Mossouri and Illinois. I have seen a lot of really nice PC rifles and pistols. I have even built one myself. I have 250 hours in my custom Virgina Flinter. My other is a Custom Built Half Stock Hawken, that is about fifteen years old.
I have never been to a Juried event, but it seems to me that trying to do everything period correct, when there are better products for cleaning and protection available today, that you would want to use the best. I would not sell my custom Built Virgina for less than $2900.00 and have been told by many that that is a good price. I really want my stuff to look and function like new all the time.
I always hear people want the "old look" and have rifles that LOOK fifty years old or older, when in fact, if you are tring to protray a mountain man from the pre 1840's then you would want a gun that looked good, and not fifty years old. It was their life line, and they took good care of their weapons, not let them look all drugout and worn. Am I wrong in my thinking? :confused:
I use Simple Green and Lehigh Lube for cleaning and Lucas Gun oil for protection, but will be buying some Balistol to try.
My bore is mirror clean, and I like it to stay that way.
Pics of my first build are on this post in the photos section dated back in January, and titled Just finished my first Flintlock . Link
 
Peg,

I see two answers here. I use whatever oil is handy, so you and I are of similar mind in not being truly primitive in our protection of the bore.

However, I have friends who will quickly ask you why you have a flinter instead of a suppository gun. When you say that you like the classic look, they will suggest that you carry your primitive interest one step further. They will show you that original means can be successfully used.

I have done it at times and it does work -- I am just a bit lazy about it and have found that several methods work without a problem.

CS
 
Bear oil works good. Will you be at the Northeastern? We should have a supply of it there.

Many Klatch
 
Sharp Shooter said:
Just wondering. I would like to stay away from petroleum with this gun.
Then departing a bit from the question of Mink Oil, I'll toss out out the names of two non-petroleum lubes that I use with zero problems:

1) Natural Lube 1000 - for all hunting, plus range shooting during spring/summer/fall here in NC without wiping between shots;

2) Hoppes No9 PLUS BP Solvent & Patch Lube during the dry, low humidity months of winter for weekend range sessions...wetter patch lets me shoot without wiping between shots then also.

I don't buy into the seasoning thing and never let bore butter build up...I clean out every bit of it after every use with steaming hot soapy water and a few strokes with a scrub brush...bores are still like new today.
 
pegesus59 said:
I use Simple Green and Lehigh Lube for cleaning and Lucas Gun oil for protection

is that the same lucas oil products that you buy fer yer car and they make fer guns too :v ................bob

P.S....i use hopps gun oil or rem-oil after hot water wash with my muzzleloader, never had any problems....
 
Yes, it is made by the same people, but comes in a little 2 oz bottle. You can get it from[url] www.lucasoil.com[/url]
It has a red color to it simular to the color of Transmission fluid. Super slick and it works good.
SO FAR! LOL
 
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Mark Lewis said:
...
Ballistol contains petroleum, which I try to avoid using inside muzzleloader barrels.
...

Nope. According to the sheet it is mineral oil. No petroleum compounds. I have used Ballistol for the last two years and have been very happy with it. No residue and can shoot all day without cleaning with just using a spit patch.

I used to use 10 wgt motor oil for barrel protection but always had the barrel gunk up after ten shots or so. That behavior went away after switching to Ballistol.
 
Where is it stated in history that anyone carried and used OLIVE OIL to lube a patch? Just interested in extending my education. Did they use a second press version or virgin oil.
They mention all manner of animal fats and whale oil. But OLIVE OIL. Tell me where you found this? Maybe in an Italian western movie? :thumbsup:
 
Mike2005 said:
Mark Lewis said:
...
Ballistol contains petroleum, which I try to avoid using inside muzzleloader barrels.
...

Nope. According to the sheet it is mineral oil. No petroleum compounds.

I believe mineral oil is a petroleum product. It's not a vegetable oil and I think it comes from distilling crude oil or making gasoline.
 
I looked at the ingreadints of bollistiol and it is a mineral oil not Petolium based. More like a cutting oil. F.K.
 
Here is a link that gives an answere to mineral oil source and its qualities. Enjoy reading.

http://ntp.niehs.nih.gov/ntp/roc/eleventh/profiles/s114mine.pdf

Here is a link to a page about graphite which I think is used as a coating on black powder.
[url] http://www.azom.com/details.asp?ArticleID=1630[/url]

Trying to keep "All" petrolium products out of your gun is kinda hard.

Hope the info helps.
 
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Just curious, whats wrong with petroleum? Is it performance, or not correct for the period?
 
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