Modifying a knife edge

[Ohio Rusty]

I have the big condor Hudsons bay knife for building blinds, chopping out branches. I didn't like that short abrupt bevel the company grinds into the knife like the bottom knife has. I reground the knife and made it a nicer taper by hand sanding the longer, thinner bevel onto the blade. This knife will be much easier to sharpen and has a nice tapered bevel that will take a sharp edge. The knife is made from 1075 HC steel.

 

[user 48679]

Hand sanding, while tiresome, is better for the blade's heat-treating, as power sanding/grinding can overheat the blade if the proper care isn't taken to prevent it occurring.

 

[Brokennock]

Nicely done.

For future reference or for other folks so inclined, KME makes a curved rod for their sharpening jig set up that does a convex grind. Works very nicely for reprofiling a blade edge. It doesn't bring the beginning of the edge grind up as high as you have or even as high as I would like, but, it gets things started and some time, very fine to extremely fine sandpaper and an old mouse pad takes care of that.

 

[necchi]

set up that does a convex grind. Works very nicely

+1 for any convex grind! Once it's in profile, hand sharpening is a breeze!
It needs to be re-done from time to time as an edge wears, but convex is the edge you really should want.
Can be made razor sharp and still durable.

 

[smoothshooter]

I have the big condor Hudsons bay knife for building blinds, chopping out branches. I didn't like that short abrupt bevel the company grinds into the knife like the bottom knife has. I reground the knife and made it a nicer taper by hand sanding the longer, thinner bevel onto the blade. This knife will be much easier to sharpen and has a nice tapered bevel that will take a sharp edge. The knife is made from 1075 HC steel.

I use a file to get the angle I want, then finish sharpening with a diamond hone. Blade does not get hot, and the job only takes a few minutes.

 

[Musketeer]

+1 for any convex grind! Once it's in profile, hand sharpening is a breeze!
It needs to be re-done from time to time as an edge wears, but convex is the edge you really should want.
Can be made razor sharp and still durable.

I love convex edges. I don't have very steady hands and have never been able to get a really great V edge on bench stones, so I use an Edge Pro guided system on those; however, my convex edged knives are easy peasy to do by hand, since you are working with a gentle curve rather than a sharp angle. I use multiple grits of wet/dry sandpaper over a piece of thick leather (~3/16", not sure what that is in oz). I've actually convexed numerous V edge knives for just this reason.

 

[Faizan]

I have the big condor Hudsons bay knife for building blinds, chopping out branches. I didn't like that short abrupt bevel the company grinds into the knife like the bottom knife has. I reground the knife and made it a nicer taper by hand sanding the longer, thinner bevel onto the blade. This knife will be much easier to sharpen and has a nice tapered bevel that will take a sharp edge. The knife is made from 1075 HC steel.

The way you did it sounds like you are experienced. Good going.

 

[TCMonts]

Hope it's not off topic, I believe the old samurai sword makers used a convex edge to get a sharp edge that would take a lot of abuse and still cut.