Modifying iron nitrate stain on curly maple with dye

[wiscoaster]

In this video:

Jim Kibler demostrates using dye stain along with iron nitrate on curly maple. I just ordered a Kibler Colonial in fancy maple and I'd like to stain with iron nitrate, but I want the end result to be lighter. I haven't used iron nitrate before, but I have used dye stain. In the video, Jim demonstrates modifying the iron nitrate result by applying the dye stain on top of the iron nitrate. I don't think that modifies the color as much as I'd like. I'm wondering if anyone has tried staining with a dye stain first, and then doing the iron nitrate on top of that?

 

[DCAN]

Yes. It worked better than staining after. I was trying for a light gold/amber color.

 

[wiscoaster]

Yes. It worked better than staining after. I was trying for a light gold/amber color.

Sounds exactly like what I want. Did you use the LMF stain or the Transtint dye?

 

[DCAN]

Both. The honey maple stain and the yellow trans tint. The stock was a pale yellow before I used the iron nitrate. The trick is how far you go with the rub back process. I ended up adding more yellow trans tint after the iron nitrate. It is a bit brighter in the natural light than the pic shows.

 

[wiscoaster]

Very nice. I think your process lightened and highlighted the "background" while still allowing the iron nitrate to bring out the curl, resulting in more contrast. Yes, very pleasing result indeed.

 

[DCAN]

The sun finally came out. This shows the color contrast better than the first pic.

 

[Indy Durtdigger]

That iron nitrate can be pretty dark or light without any additional stain. Both of these are maple stocks. The Woodsrunner is a B grade stock with several little knots in it. Had to wet and sand several times to even things out, one coat of the IN. Sadly lost a-lot of the curl detail but thus the perils of B grades and my experience level. The Colonial is two applications of the IN with light sanding. Both were finished with 5 coats of Minwax Antique Oil finish afterwards.

And I just realized I typed this out on the computer and pics are still on the phone. Uno momento.

 

[Indy Durtdigger]

 

[boberator]

Both. The honey maple stain and the yellow trans tint. The stock was a pale yellow before I used the iron nitrate. The trick is how far you go with the rub back process. I ended up adding more yellow trans tint after the iron nitrate. It is a bit brighter in the natural light than the pic shows.

That makes a very nice contrast? Next one I do may get a version of this.

 

[NRFord]

Sand back the iron nitrate application, then stain.

 

[Indy Durtdigger]

I forgot to mention. The reason I had to sand my WR back and lost all the contrast was because the wood around the knots turned green aft the IN treatment. Had to remove that then had to even things out. Rather than the nice black curls I was left with red curls. Given that the knots run the length of the rifle it was either that or live with the green.

 

[wiscoaster]

Sand back the iron nitrate application, then stain.

Mmmmm ... you'd have to do quite a bit of sanding, no?

 

[NRFord]

Depends on what you are after...

 

[NRFord]

I forgot to mention. The reason I had to sand my WR back and lost all the contrast was because the wood around the knots turned green aft the IN treatment. Had to remove that then had to even things out. Rather than the nice black curls I was left with red curls. Given that the knots run the length of the rifle it was either that or live with the green.

Knots??????

 

[Bucolic Buffalo]

Here's one of my SMR's still in process with Laurel Mountain Forge Honey Maple and no iron nitrate.

https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/kibler-smr-lmf-honey-maple-eye-candy.169247/

 

[Indy Durtdigger]

Knots??????

B grade stock and heavily discounted. Small knots in the wood were the flaw and run the length of the stock.

 

[Hatman/2nd line]

I used Jim's Iron Nitrate on my stock but wasn't happy with the color, wanted a more redish color so I sanded back the nitrate and stained with aniline dyes, scarlet red and oak brown, used Chamber Original Oil to finish.