Mold for .648 Roundball.

[RussB]

Anyone got a handle on where I might find a mold for a .648 Roundball. I'm shooting a 16ga "smoothie", and the balls I've had from Warren's gets pretty spendy.
I guess I cast for everything I own except this thing and I really enjoy shooting it.
Although Rapine will probably come to mind first, I would like to use them as the last choice, if at all possible.
Any help certainly appreciated..
Respectfully, Russ

BTW; I'm more of a lurker than a poster. But I do sit in the front row.

 

[musketman]

RussB:

Found two...

NEI Product Data has .648 precision cast bullet molds
http://www.neihandtools.com/catpages/cat_pg2.htm


Ball Moulds for Muzzle Loading Arms
0.61 to 0.850" 15GB/Pounds or $23 US
http://www.jt-bullet-moulds.co.uk/moulds.html

 

[SquirrelsaurusR]

Why is Rapine your last choice?

 

[RussB]

Good Man, Musketman! Don't know how I overlooked the NEI site, but I apparently did.
Jeff, in England, has an interesting mold. Prices seem pretty good too, IMH way of thinking. Do you have any experience with this mold, or do you know of anyone that used this mold? I'm not real sure of the venting method used, appears somewhat different in the picture on the web site.

Many thanks for the information. Just have to knock my piggy bank in the head, and step up now.

Respectfully, Russ

 

[RussB]

Why is Rapine your last choice?

I guess that was a poor choice of words on my part. I have two Rapine molds for my .58 cal, 1861 Colt, and they are OK....by anyone's standards. It's just that I've paid much less, and got great moulds for my money. I had just about settled on the fact that I would have to end up with another Rapine for the smoothie. However, it does appear I now have an option, perhaps two.
Respectfully, Russ

 

[musketman]

Do you have any experience with this mold?

Sorry, no...

I only have Lyman abd Lee molds...

 

[riarcher]

Just anouther option, Dixie Gun Works, 2004 Catalog 153, Pg. 318.
"Dixie Mould", made of cast iron, NO SPRUE CUTTER (but you could fabricate one no doubt), "Available in increments of .001" from .310 to .850" (in RB) priced at $34.95.
No experience with it (yet).

 

Personally, I'd rather spend a few more $$ and get the Lyman. The price of the Dixie mould is high for it's quality from what I've seen, especially if it's the snipper handle one. A mould witout the sprue cutter is is definitely of poor of inferior quality compared to Lyman Moulds. I have never had a poor Lyman RB mould.

 

[RussB]

"The price of the Dixie mould is high for it's quality from what I've seen, especially if it's the snipper handle one."

My sentiments exactly Daryl.
I think I will give the one thats made in England a try. Kinda like a LEE mould in my opinion,..... Ya ain't out much if decide ya don't like it. And, I'm not lashing out at LEE moulds with this statement. I guess I could be called something of a LEE fan, as I like many of their products.
Respectfully, Russ

 

[tg]

I have several of Jeff Tanners molds and they are good, true molds, they are brass and have no spru cutter but I find a side cutter or end cutter works well, his prices and service are exceptional.They wil fit a Lyman handle.

 

[RussB]

I have several of Jeff Tanners molds and they are good, true molds, they are brass and have no spru cutter but I find a side cutter or end cutter works well, his prices and service are exceptional.They wil fit a Lyman handle.

Thanks tg. That's good to know. Also, it's very encouraging. About how long did it take you to get the mold after you placed the order?
Seems Jeff has been thoughtful enough to have an address in Calif. to receive the funds. Just wondering about total turn-around time.
Respectfully, Russ

 

[doverdog]

I ordered a .570" mold from Jeff Tanner and it seemed it was only about a week till I had it. Just email the order, he sends it with an open bill for you to send money after receipt of the mold. Rare in these times.

 

[tg]

I have also found delivery time to be about a week from order.

 

[RussB]

One last thing before the order goes out.....
The bore of the gun "mike's" an honest .666. The .648 ball from Warren[url] is...in[/url] my mind, at bit too tight. Even when using "T-Shirt" patches at about .008. The .010 patched ball can be seated but only with consideralbe effort. Accuracy is just OKay...nothing to write home about.

Any thoughts from the masses on a "better" size.

After thinking this over, I'm leaning toward perhaps a .640 mould and finding the "right" thickness patch. Seems that would be easier.
(Shooter575...If you read this I would certainly appreciate your input.)

Once again, Thanks for all the help up to this point, you folks sure seem to have your "Duckies" all lined up.

Respectfully, Russ

 

[Stumpkiller]

I used a .650" ball in my 16 gauge/.662 cal fusil - but I made up paper cartridges. MUCH faster than loading a patched ball from components at the muzzle.

Here's the URL from our "Links" page:

Paper cartridge making (click me)

Have fun

 

[RussB]

Stumpkiller...Nice! What do ya do, just stuff the paper and ball in after dumping the powder? Is there any lube anywhere? Is lube necessary? Or, did I miss something?

Shooter575 has mentioned this before...I think.
Anyway, seems the best solution I've seen so far, if that paper being used as a patch doesn't become some kind of fire hazard after firing. It would ignite, I suppose.
Is anyone concerned about this? or am I getting out in left field (alone), and there is no concern?

Respectfully, Russ

 

[tg]

I like a patch with a smoothie. As a rule of thumb I shoot a ball .020 smaler than bore size and patch to fit as needed
I use a .600 in my .62 and a .562 or .550 in my .58 and a .530 in my .54 which mikes at .550 bore size, you can always find a larger patch if needed but if you find a thin patch is to tight with the size ball you have you are in a pickle. Generaly the smaller balls with thicker patching work well in smoothies.

 

[roundball]

FYI...I experimented with a .56cal smoothbore last year...bought some .550's and used .015" cotton patches...took a little harder palm slap on the short starter than with a rifle but it shot surprisingly well at 50yds

 

[tg]

I have one of the molds from TC that throws a .550 ball and they work as well in my .58 as the .562 balls I just use a bigger patch..all in all I think the smoothies are more forgiving than rifles in their need for the perfect combo.

 

[Stumpkiller]

Stumpkiller...Nice! What do ya do, just stuff the paper and ball in after dumping the powder? Is there any lube anywhere? Is lube necessary? Or, did I miss something?

My practice is to roll the cartridge, then dip the ball end into melted beeswax & Crisco mix only as deep as the ball. If I plan on keeping them for a while I make an inner 'chamber' of wax paper for the powder.

When loading, I bite off the end of the powder end, pour in the powder, seat the ball (with the paper where the powder was pointing up - I would have rolled the cartridge with the sprue against the dowel). Once the ball is started below flush with the muzzle I pull the paper sideways and down, tearing it off just above the ball. Then ram the ball down. This method requires a seperate method of priming the charge. The original drill calls for priming first (after tearing the cartridge open but before pouring the main charge down the bore). This is just too unsafe to justify for non-life threatening situations. But you can fire five times in a minute doing this.

When loading for speed I pour in the powder and then push the ball in with the open end of the paper tube below the ball. Doe nothing for accuracy and adds to the litter and fire potential with the burning paper.