• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Mold for .648 Roundball.

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Russ, as I can't use a patch in my shooting it is a non issue. Thrice diped,big as you can fit to get off the required shots before swabing.[My method] With Tanners moulds being soo cheep and a week turnaround try whatever size sutes ya.
With a underssizes ball you can adjust patch thickness to fit bore. Also you can play around with lead hardness to increase ball size also.I tried casting some hard lead in my 684 mould.They were about .006 biger.Naked they just sit on top of muzzle.I use 80 gr of ff goex in that orgional 16 conversion.

Jim
 
Stumpkiller...Nice! What do ya do, just stuff the paper and ball in after dumping the powder? Is there any lube anywhere? Is lube necessary? Or, did I miss something?
:
:
:Interesting- I merely bite off the small end, shove this intot he barrel & by the time I get the wiping stick out the powder is all sitting on the breechplug. I then shove dwon the bal and paper beneath it. The paper serves as a wad and seems to seal the powder gawses behind the ball. In the .69 rifle, this load shoots with patched balls & into the same group- into 1 1/2" at 100yds.
: The reason for tapering the ctgs. is they Also, if the ctg. is used for priming as well, it provides a small funnel for priming the pan.
:
ctg.%20pouch%203.JPG
 
The paper serves as a wad and seems to seal the powder gasses behind the ball.

Doesn't that set the paper on fire, or is it nitrated paper?

If it's just regular paper, the hot gasses could set the un-consummed paper on fire and deposit it in front of you in the dry leaves and fodder, setting the woods on fire...
 
Never had that happen- not once, at the range nor during hunting. The paper comes out in tiny pieces, spraying like confette due to the muzzleblast. Not once have I seen flame or smoking embers. This is much unlike what I've seen with cloth patches, burnouts still smoldering in the grass from guys not quite up to speed yet in knowledge.
: Nope- never a problem- not nitrated, plain typing paper or printer paper - no problem.
; I should add here, that quite a number of undersized paper ctgs. were shot from Tayor's 10 bore Bess with .715balls, yet none of them caught fire or smoldered either, even though there was much blowby. They created a hollow blooming sound with what should have beenloads in excess of the speed of sound, yet weren't. This is a worst case senario for the paper with gas blowing past it, yet none caught fire. We were shooting on the range, and would have seen any smoldering elmber.
; I am satisfied with their safety, yet would not shoot them when a firewarning is out. I really don't think I would shoot any ML during these highly tinderous times as any spark that hits the bush floor start a fire that probably coulnd't be stopped. It's just that dry here, right now.
 
I think that's a regional problem. We haven't had rain for three days. :haha:

I only recall two warnings in the 40 plus years I can remember well where there was a general alert given for forest fire potential locally. We're # 3 behind a spot in Hawaii and another in Washington State for annual rainfall. (Though I did once set a small island on fire with a 12 ga. flare pistol - but we won't talk about that. Dum dee dum dum.) I usually shoot in the woods where there is no dry grass.

Rust? You wanna talk rust? 85% humidity.
 
Daryl...That was a very encouraging statement, "Never had that happen- not once, at the range nor during hunting"... Especially for someone thinking seriously about doing this.

Well, I got the word from Jeff Tanner today on the mould. A very prompt, and courteous reply.
He suggested I go with a .650 mould for for the .666 bore and adjust the patch downward, better for accuracy he feels.
So, that is what it is going to be. I should have the mould within a week, or thereabouts.
Sure is a nice, courteous person to do business with.
I think I'll end up ordering three moulds before it's all said and done. I still have my mind set on a .648, and have a strong hankering to see what a .646 will do. I "think" the .646 may be best in the Cartouches described by you fellers.
Daryl, anyone? Do you have any thoughts on which may be better for the paper cartridges you folks have described. Smaller?(somewhat loose) or Larger? (somewhat tighter)

Many thanks for all the help I've received so far.

Jim (Shooter575) I "think" larger may be better for the "thrice dipped" balls you have described. Am I getting close?
Respectfully, Russ
 
"Snug" is what I try for. Tight enough to stay put but loose enough to allow loading that 40th shot without swabbing. (Though I can't ever recall shooting 40 consecutive .650" balls in a single day). You can adjust fit easily by changing the amount or wrap from the paper. I use old onionskin typewriter paper (remember those?) as it is stiff and easy to tear. Use a bit larger pattern for a tighter fit.
 
Russ,when you get that .650 mould.Cast up some in soft and WW. I would like to know the dia. You will need em both for your "care" package. :: You gonna wait now. Instructions to follow ::

Jim
 
Russ- about WW and pure lead. The beauty of large bores is they will shoot either with the same accuracy provided the rifling (if rifled) is .012" or shallower, or the bore smooth. The "Fit" should be snug and depends on the # of wraps of paper which is easily adjusted. At close ranges, even the poorly fitting well undersized balls, almost faling down the bore with the paper, still shot into 1 hole(large) at 25yds. It was at longer ranges where the tighter fitting balls started really coming on.
: Try dipping or wiping lube around the ball end of the ctg. this is in the interest of getting more shots before wiping is necessary. With bare paper, loose fit and no lube, after 10 shots it was getting awfully crunchy to load. As well, in wiping it out, it took a bunch of wet patches to do the job.
: With my .69 rifle, I could fire up to 10 rounds of ctgs. without lube, then load a saliva lubed, patched ball and it would go into the same group and clean the barrel as well.
: Once I found WW balls would shoot as accurately as patched pure lead balls, I used nothing but WW balls. Pure lead is much harder to come by here as most garages will sell a 10 gallon bucket of WW for $20.00. there's about 150lbs.or more of WW in 10 gallon capacity.
: Word of caution - melt them down, outside.
 
Stumpkiller........."I use old onionskin typewriter paper (remember those?) as it is stiff and easy to tear. Use a bit larger pattern for a tighter fit."

How well I do remember "these". I'm always on the lookout for this paper, everytime I visit a new Stationary Store I ask the question...Got onionskin?
I have found a replacement for "paper patching" my 45-70 BPCR in the form of somekind of "Art, Traceable" paper. It is about .0025 and seems to hold up pretty good, should work with the cartridges in the smoothbore, don't you think?
Russ
 
Daryl...Good tip's, all of them. And all very much appreciated. You good folks have given me a lot to think on and experiment with. Ya just can't beat a forum like this for the disemination of knowledge...and first hand knowledge at that! Thanks.
Russ
 
Back
Top