Mold lube

[dooltubes]

I'm about ready to cast my first .58 REALs, but the instructions for the new Lee mold (aluminum blocks) say I need Lee Bullet Lube #90007 for the sprue bushing, V ribs, and cross pin. Is there any substitute for this lube or will I have to special order? Instructions specifically say not to use any alox-based lubes. I've still got a little time, as muzzleloader season doesn't start for nearly three weeks.

 

[silverfox]

You can get mold release in a spray can at most sporting goods stores or just give the mold a good smokeing. Candle smoke or wood matches smoke the entire inside of the mold to get the lead to release when you open the mold. This should get you enough bullets for deer season and not do any damage to the mold. Don't get any oil near the mold. If you have some graphite a little might work ok.
Fox :thumbsup:

 

[szihn]

use a small ammount of high temp lythum greese
You can get it at auto supplies and indeustrial supply houses

 

[LRB]

I have used lithium grease and RCBS case lube. Just DO NOT use a Lee mold without some kind of lube.

 

[jtmattison]

I have never lubed my Lee molds and I have cast thousands of balls/bullets.
When I get a new mold I scrub it real good under hot water with dish soap to remove any oil then I dry it on an electric hot plate.
Before casting I smoke the mold cavities with stick matches.
I store all of my molds in a tackle box with moisture absorbing packets.
I've never had a problem with my molds.

HD

 

[hawkeye1755]

I have never lubed my Lee molds and I have cast thousands of balls/bullets.
When I get a new mold I scrub it real good under hot water with dish soap to remove any oil then I dry it on an electric hot plate.
Before casting I smoke the mold cavities with stick matches.
I store all of my molds in a tackle box with moisture absorbing packets.
I've never had a problem with my molds.
HD

The same counts for me.I've cast my own RB since i started shooting ML.I cast everytime between 250-500 balls at the same time.Never take any kind of lube.And i have the same mold since 15 years. But that's my experience.
:hatsoff:

 

[Blizzard of '93]

Smoke the cavity with candle, lube the sprue pin and hinges very sparingly with paraffin. Flux the melt sparingly with paraffin also.

 

[Stumpkiller]

I use beeswax on the hinge and sprue plate of my Lees and Lymans. I don't wax the v-rib or any internal surface. A tiny bit is all it takes. Paraffin is another good lube and you can use a candle, which further serves to smoke the molds so they release nicely.

 

[wszumera]

I like graphite for a lube, antiseize at the pivot screw.

Clutch

 

[hobbles]

Mornin Stumpkiller
Out of the 2 molds (Lees-Lymans) which do you like best? Are the lymans worth the price?? I am findin a lil diff between the balls with the Lees, Some are a lil bigger and heavier,

 

[paulvallandigham]

The lee molds are made from an Aluminum alloy: The Lyman molds are made of steel. Both can throw good balls, but careful attention to using both is required, as with all casting. I don't think using any kind of mold lube is necessary, other than during the breaking in period, when using some graphite often helps, particularly with the Lee Molds. The heat of the mold burns off oil- a delightful smell- so be prepared to oil the pivot pins frequently, and choose the lube, like an anti-seize lube, that will hold up the best in high heat. Obviously vent the area where you are molding properly, so you are not inhaling all the wonderful choice of fumes that come from the process. None of it is good for your lungs.

 

[dooltubes]

Thanks Frontendstuffers. I tried to make sure I was not talking about a RELEASE agent, but a substance to prevent GALLING (lead sticking in other places than the cavity, especially under the sprue plate. I never had this happen with steel blocks, but this is my first aluminum mold. I'll try a touch of beeswax and deposit a little carbon inside the blocks with a smoky flame as suggested.

 

[Stumpkiller]

Mornin Stumpkiller
Out of the 2 molds (Lees-Lymans) which do you like best? Are the lymans worth the price?? I am findin a lil diff between the balls with the Lees, Some are a lil bigger and heavier,

The Lymans. They throw a more consistant ball. I wore out one Lee, possibly through abuse, but it doesn't seat "square" any more and the balls are out of round. I open the sprue plate with a tap from a 14" length of pick handle when casting.

Lees don't rust, though. Even though one of mine is retired it paid for itself many times over (I use free lead).

I learned to leave the last ball and sprue undisturbed in the mold in a Lyman so moist air has no way to get in. Never had a problem with a Lyman after using that trick. I also leave about three pounds of lead in my bottom-pour Lee electric pot so the inner workings don't corrode. Hardens up and protects everything from moisture and corrosion.

 

[hobbles]

Mornin boys,,
Thanks for the info,,,,

 

[jaguarxk120]

As I remember Lyman moulds are made from cast iron. TF

 

[yooper]

I really prefer my Lyman,and RCBS molds. I've had the aluminum moulds gall on me. Also,when I'm casting I wear a heavy leather glove on my pouring hand and cut the sprue with a pop of my gloved palm on the sprue plate...Ya avoid having to use a stick with this method...just my 2 cents...