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d slocum

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I have a new .32 lee mold the instuctions say I need to lube the sprue bushing, v ribs and locating pins. they say to use bullet lube i dont have any can another lube be used and do i lube it every time i use it?
 
I don't lube mine at all but you can lube it with beeswax.
Don't overdo it with the lube. If it gets into the mold cavity it will mess up your bullets.

HD
 
You can use parafin or beeswax or the like. It works fine. I have Richard Lee's reloading book and he says most of his molds are ruined by guys who do not lube the molds. Seems that aluminum gets "sticky" when hot and failure to lube the molds causes them to gall and first thing you know they don't come together correctly. (I know this from first hand experience). Smoke the mold before using, use whatever you have handy to lube the v-joints and alignment ribs (taking care not to get any inside the mold cavity) and the mold will last the life of the user.
 
La Longue Carabine said:
You can use parafin or beeswax or the like. It works fine. I have Richard Lee's reloading book and he says most of his molds are ruined by guys who do not lube the molds. Seems that aluminum gets "sticky" when hot and failure to lube the molds causes them to gall and first thing you know they don't come together correctly. (I know this from first hand experience). Smoke the mold before using, use whatever you have handy to lube the v-joints and alignment ribs (taking care not to get any inside the mold cavity) and the mold will last the life of the user.

I can report that galling is not a theory. One of my molds managed to slip into use without my usual lube job. And ever since doing the first two long casting sessions without lube, all the bullets now come out with this cute little seam running all around them. Ratz.

I now religiously touch the critical spots with a nubbin of beeswax while they still hot at the end of a casting session. Sure beats trying to remember to do it before casting.
 
Ray Rapine, who makes aluminum molds exclusively, swears by a graphite-based lube that he sells in little 2-3 oz plastic bottles. One bottle lasts for years. I paint each mold with it, using a q-tip, after each casting session. Keeps rust off the iron ones and keeps the aluminum ones working well. He's at: Rapine Bullet Mould Mfg., 9503 Landis Lane, East Greenville, PA 18041. To the best of my knowledge, he does not have a Web site.
 
i use candle smoke to lube my molds i find it works the best,i blacken the hole mold.
bernie :thumbsup:
 
Thanks. I think I'll try the parafin I can get it quick and easy. Where can I get bees wax?
 
Beeswax - contact your state department of agriculture's apiary (beekeeping) division and ask for the name and number of your county's bee inspector. That person can put you in contact with beekeepers in your area, who will sell it to you by the pound.

Beekeepers are good people; my wife used to bee one beefore she got too busy with her yarn business. Fortunately, I ended up with a lifetime supply of the good wax.
 
Here is an online source for beeswax if you can't find it locally. I bookmarked this from one of our members, think it may have been one of the moderators![url] http://www.beeswaxfrombeekeepers.com[/url]/
 
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I used to use bees wax for a while, but found it gets a hard burned on finish. Then I rubbed a pencil across the top of the mold and on the bottom of the sprue plate, coating the surfaces. I recently got a lube created specifically for lubing molds and it works great- Bull Shop Lube, a tiny bit goes a long way. (http://bullshop.gunloads.com )
 
Link The stuff is called BullLube. It is a sprueplate lube that will make your casting so much more enjoyable and results in better bullets, also. If you want to see how well it works, go to Castboolit.com and read all the comments made by the full time casters! Absolutely no lead smearing on the mould top, no "tearing" of the lead on the bullet bases, and works great as a lube for your locator pins, handle/mould joint, and sprueplate hinge. Try it, I guarantee you wont cast without it again!
 
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