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moose snot and marrow question

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wszumera

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I have collected the ingredents to make stumpys moose snot and marrow but I have a question on the amount of beeswax.

I am assuming the measurements for liquid items is in oz volume. Is the beeswax amount in oz volume or oz weight?

Thanks,

Clutch
 
Assume it is in its liquid state, and always use volume. You have to heat the wax up in a double boiler arrangement- a small pan with the beeswax in it sitting in a larger pan with water in it works just fine- before you can combine the wax with the other liquid ingredients. What comes out when it cools to air temperature witll be a soft paste like mixture, that is easily stored in either a jar, or tin with a good lid, like a shoe polish can.
 
Yep. Oz volume poured when molten

Hey RiverRat! How you is? Comin up after deer season (or for deer season?) I've got lots of places to hang gongs and a 900 yard clear path for a BIG gong. :haha: And a driveway that a body can walk down without needing rapelling gear.
 
That wikipedia is wonderful.
Beeswax density at 15 °C is 0.958 to 0.970 g/cm³
Water density is 1.000 g/cm³

It looks like I can use weight for the beeswax with a very slight plus up on amount to correct for density variation.

Clutch
 
Clutch said:
That wikipedia is wonderful.
Beeswax density at 15 °C is 0.958 to 0.970 g/cm³
Water density is 1.000 g/cm³

It looks like I can use weight for the beeswax with a very slight plus up on amount to correct for density variation.

Clutch

:shocked2: Too much math for tonight. Should make sense, but not computing. :grin:
I just stuck a chunk of bees wax in the appropriate sized measuring cup, a little extra for the melting factor, and went with it. Like I said, too much math. :grin: Seemed to work out just fine. Stumpy, love the stuff.
 
I must be doing something wrong. I made some but it is hard as a brick. I reheated it and added more oil thinking that might soften it up some ,but it didn't.
Old Charlie
 
I don't know how hard or soft it is supposed to be. Mine was a little hard until I started getting through the top part. Under was softer, a little harder than thate bore butter stuff. I just rub the patch back and forth a few times on each side to coat it. Seems to work well, I definately don't have to wipe as much between shots anymore.
 
Do you remember the proportions you used? My first batch seems to be fine.

Clutch
 
I used this:

Beeswax 2 oz.
Castor Oil 8 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz

1/2 oz. = 1 tbsp = 3 tsp
1 oz. = 2 tbsp = 6 tsp

Got this off one of the old posts for this stuff.
 
That is a 1:4 mixture, which is a little heavy on the wax. Add more oil to get it down to 1:5-7, which should make it softer. ( You will have to heat the current stuff back up in a double boiler to make it liquid again before adding more oil. Oil burns, so keep it away from a flame when adding it.
 
Just talked to uncle and he said to use 1 part beeswax, 2 parts murphy oil soap, 4 parts castor oil.

I'm going over to check his batch and then I will try adding more murphy oil soap to the mix to change the ratio.

Clutch
 
Goldhunter said:
I used this:

Beeswax 2 oz.
Castor Oil 8 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz

1/2 oz. = 1 tbsp = 3 tsp
1 oz. = 2 tbsp = 6 tsp

Got this off one of the old posts for this stuff.

I remelted mine and used 2oz beeswax, 8 oz castor oil, and 4 oz murphy's oil soap. Much closer to that stuff in the squeeze tube.

Adding Castor oil as Paul indicated will likely work but the Murphy oil soap is much cheaper.

The only thing I am not sure of is how much water content is in the Murphy's and if my mix in my altoid tin will stiffen over time.

Clutch
 
Just before pouring it into tins I wip mine up with a three-tined fork and that makes it a bit softer. I don't like it too soft, as it tends to get everywhere in the summer (clothing, pouch, etc.) I try for a lube about the consistancy of shoe polish.
 
I can't find the link to the post (for some reason I can't search past a year ago), but I copied and saved the post to a word doc for my files last spring, here is what I copied.

"Stumpy's Moose Snot

A premium multi-shot between wiping (10+) patch lube stable over a wide temperature range.
SPECIFICALLY designed for use of patched round balls in a loading block

Beeswax 2 oz.
Castor Oil 8 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.

Heat beeswax in a soup can set a pot of water. ( A double-boiler. I keep my beeswax in a one pound coffee can and measure out what I need by melting it and pouring it into measuring cups). Add just enough water so the inner can does not begin to float (should be just short of the lube level in the can). Heat the water to a low boil. In a separate can, add the castor oil and Murphy's oil soap (cold). Once the beeswax is melted, swap the castor oil can in the pot of water for the beeswax. Add the beeswax to the oils. It will clump up. Stir with an ice tea spoon as the mixture heats up. When it fully melts there will be a scum that floats to the top and just won't mix in. Be patient. DO NOT COOK THE MIXTURE. Once the solids are dissolved there is no need to heat further. Skim the scum off. Remove the mix from the heat and wipe the water off the outside (so it won't drip into the container when you pour it out). FINAL TOP SECRET STEP: Add a teaspoon of Murphy's Oil Soap and stir vigorously. This last step makes the lube frothy and smooth - really adds to the appearance; though it doesn't seem to matter to the function of the lube. Clamp the can in the jaws of a vice-grip pliers and pour into the waiting tins. Allow to cool a half hour.

Note: it if is a hinged tin - line the edge that has the hinges with a strip of aluminum foil so it doesn't ooze out before it cools.
1/2 oz. = 1 tbsp = 3 tsp
1 oz. = 2 tbsp = 6 tsp

I keep a pound of beeswax in a metal container that I place in boiling water and pour what is needed when it melts. Measure the castor oil first and the wax won't stick to the measures."

I followed the above instructions and it came out like Stumpy said, like shoe polish.
 
That is how mine came out and I used the mix you quoted.

Uncle was sure he read it different so I remelted and added more murphy oil soap and it now is more like bore butter. How it works will have to be determined.

I guess there is nothing left but to find a decent day out and take it shootin if it doesn't work, I can always mix it back to stiff since I have more ingredients.

Clutch
 
Hey Stumpy, sounds like you got that log cabin. You got to let me have the grid cordinates (sp) and I'll try to make it up. I got two new long rifles and two more on the way. Life is good!
 

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