Moose Snot ?
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what is the recipe for moose snot? :hmm:
Guest
You can get castor oil at any drug store/ wally's/ or kmart in the phamacy. The vegy oil can spoil and get rancid, but otherwise should work. The biggest test will be in the winter, and what will happen in freezing weather. Stumpy's formula works great. Bill
Probably, Stumpkiller has said that the reason for using castor oil is the extreme high heat it will take without breaking down. Vegetable oils may not be able to withstand the heat and may leave a mess in your bore and as Bill said, they can turn racid and may not do well in cold temperature. Also, as Bill posted, you can get castor oil at any drugstore. Check the pharmacy section at Walmart.
Vegetable oil may work, but it may gum up. Can't say how it reacts to metal as any kind of a rust inhibitor. Oilve oil works well, and has been a standard lube ingredient for a long, long time.
Stumpy's Moose Snot
A premium multi-shot between wiping (10+) patch lube stable over a wide temperature range.
SPECIFICALLY designed for use of patched round balls in a loading block
Beeswax 2 oz.
Castor Oil 8 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.
Heat beeswax in a soup can set a pot of water. ( A double-boiler. I keep my beeswax in a one pound coffee can and measure out what I need by melting it and pouring it into measuring cups). Add just enough water so the inner can does not begin to float (should be just short of the lube level in the can). Heat the water to a low boil. In a separate can, add the castor oil and Murphy's oil soap (cold). Once the beeswax is melted, swap the castor oil can in the pot of water for the beeswax. Add the beeswax to the oils. It will clump up. Stir with an ice tea spoon as the mixture heats up. When it fully melts there will be a scum that floats to the top and just won't mix in. Be patient. DO NOT COOK THE MIXTURE. Once the solids are dissolved there is no need to heat further. Skim the scum off. Remove the mix from the heat and wipe the water off the outside (so it won't drip into the container when you pour it out). FINAL TOP SECRET STEP: Add a teaspoon of Murphy's Oil Soap and stir vigorously. This last step makes the lube frothy and smooth - really adds to the appearance; though it doesn't seem to matter to the function of the lube. Clamp the can in the jaws of a vice-grip pliers and pour into the waiting tins. Allow to cool a half hour.
Note: it if is a hinged tin - line the edge that has the hinges with a strip of aluminum foil so it doesn't ooze out before it cools.
Stumpy's Moose Snot
A premium multi-shot between wiping (10+) patch lube stable over a wide temperature range.
SPECIFICALLY designed for use of patched round balls in a loading block
Beeswax 2 oz.
Castor Oil 8 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.
Heat beeswax in a soup can set a pot of water. ( A double-boiler. I keep my beeswax in a one pound coffee can and measure out what I need by melting it and pouring it into measuring cups). Add just enough water so the inner can does not begin to float (should be just short of the lube level in the can). Heat the water to a low boil. In a separate can, add the castor oil and Murphy's oil soap (cold). Once the beeswax is melted, swap the castor oil can in the pot of water for the beeswax. Add the beeswax to the oils. It will clump up. Stir with an ice tea spoon as the mixture heats up. When it fully melts there will be a scum that floats to the top and just won't mix in. Be patient. DO NOT COOK THE MIXTURE. Once the solids are dissolved there is no need to heat further. Skim the scum off. Remove the mix from the heat and wipe the water off the outside (so it won't drip into the container when you pour it out). FINAL TOP SECRET STEP: Add a teaspoon of Murphy's Oil Soap and stir vigorously. This last step makes the lube frothy and smooth - really adds to the appearance; though it doesn't seem to matter to the function of the lube. Clamp the can in the jaws of a vice-grip pliers and pour into the waiting tins. Allow to cool a half hour.
Note: it if is a hinged tin - line the edge that has the hinges with a strip of aluminum foil so it doesn't ooze out before it cools.
Ah yes... moose snot. Best lube ever made and leaves your hands silky smooth too! ::
montanadan
40 Cal.
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Stumpkiller will Moose Snot work in cap-n-ball revolvers in the summer time? Or would you add a little more Bee's wax? Thanks in advance..Respectfully Montanadan
Ah, you need the thicker product of the Moose stable:
S t u m p k i l l e r' s
MOOSE MARROW
All Weather Moisturizing
Conical Lube & Laxative
A denser lube for adhering in the grooves of conical bullets
Beeswax 3 oz.
Castor Oil 9 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.
Witch Hazel 1 oz.
I'm not sure the witch hazel adds enough to be necessary. It seems to improve the smear characteriistics of the lube. This version is definately less messy than Crisco or Bore Butter.
Plain 'ol Moose Snot will also work over the balls in a cap & ball. But, it may splatter more with the heat & spitting from the cylinder gap.
S t u m p k i l l e r' s
MOOSE MARROW
All Weather Moisturizing
Conical Lube & Laxative
A denser lube for adhering in the grooves of conical bullets
Beeswax 3 oz.
Castor Oil 9 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.
Witch Hazel 1 oz.
I'm not sure the witch hazel adds enough to be necessary. It seems to improve the smear characteriistics of the lube. This version is definately less messy than Crisco or Bore Butter.
Plain 'ol Moose Snot will also work over the balls in a cap & ball. But, it may splatter more with the heat & spitting from the cylinder gap.
Guest
Yep, right on time, about every other week we can bank on a moose snot thread. (VBG)
And what have you contributed to muzzleloading? ::
Guest
hey stumpy could you pm me the instructions? i am what some would call slow on the process but good overall. :cry:
montanadan
40 Cal.
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2004
- Messages
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- Reaction score
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Stumpkiller-Thank you for your reply-I was thinking more of using the"Moose Snot" for cylinder pin lube and over the ball lube.Thanks..Respectfully Montanadan
Guest
Well let me point out a few things.
1. A person does not need to contributed to muzzleloading to enjoy it.
2. I was not condemning your moose snot, so your reply about "contributed to muzzleloading" was unwarranted.
3. I was merely replying about the frequency of this topic, you, as moderator of this section should know this better than most. Besides, I did nothing more than member Ghost by replying to the recurrence of this topic, perhaps he contributed to muzzleloading more than I and his saying this was accepted without the grains of salt. (VBG)
This is a very popular topic, and that is why we see it a lot...
Moose snot is a good quality product that almost anyone can make at home, unless you spill a pan of molten wax on the floor and the wife bans you from the kitchen...
I think you may have taken Stumpkillers post to seriously. I think that he was most likely just jokin' with ya, as the little smiley face at the end of the question would suggest. And besides, like you said, it don't matter if you have contributed anything or not, we are all in this for the fun. Besides that, you contribute something every time you answer someones question here on this forum. :front:
Maestro
Moderator
Very true... but if you regularly post sarcastic or "snied" comments, you will tend to be "discredited" by others.
One great thing about this forum is the friendliness of all the members - although we come from various walks of life, we all share a common bond in muzzleloading.
Are you refering to me posting sarcastic and snide remarks? Because if you are, i would like to know where you saw them. I normally post to answer a question, and sometimes to joke around with someone i know, but i don't make it a habit of posting snide remarks. Or were you refering to someone else?
Maestro
Moderator
No! ...absolutely not, Rebel! Anyone guilty of sarcastic and snied remarks should know who they are (if the shoe fits...) - maybe I'm wrong and they just have a "different" sense of humor - in which case, I'm sorry I said anything and we can end this little off-shoot - don't want to take this off-topic, anyhow.... so, how 'bout that castor oil & beeswax mixture, huh? :winking: (I gotta try it when my bear grease & beeswax mixture runs out!)
Well ::,i use Stumpys Moose Snot as well as bear oil and beeswax. Both work well, and not only that, they keep us on subject. :: Take care.
