More 51 navy problems

[Kadmos]

Got back to the range today, got the new nipples (traditions brand from Bass pro)on, caps fit very snug, kinda too snug, but the real problem is I think the nipples are just a touch too long.

With Remington 11's on the cylinder will barely turn, CCI's are actually too tight to really fit these nipples.

Do I just file down the top of the nipples a bit?

Also after they do go, and this might be related, the spent caps tend to really jam up in the mechanism. Is this just a factor of the design?

Although I really enjoyed shooting it, I can't imagine that people would have to pick out bits of caps in order to keep it from jamming every shot.

On a side note, is there a model of cap and ball that is more reliable with the caps not jamming in? ...just considering my next possible purchase.

Thanks

 

[Dave Rosenthal]

Let's get this first gun shooting right before you jump and buy another one!

You bought the wrong nipples! You need to buy a set that fits the gun, from a parts supply company, not a big-box/mail-order retailer that has no one that knows anything except how to click a mouse......

Try VTI Gun Parts. Let them know of the manufacturer, and your current problem, as well as the model of the revolver. ASK them what caps fit their nipples! TALK to someone on the phone, don't just click with the mouse....

As far as caps jamming the works, it happens sometimes to the best of us. A small knife comes in handy. Also you can try different brand caps.

Good luck and hope things work out!

Dave

 

[Bob Riegl]

:v I think I will archive this answer in my computer so I don't have to write it over. Take off those nipples---get a variable speed drill and chuck the thread end carefully into the drill---while runing the drill slowly use a small needle file and take off some of the nipple body--slowly and check while doing this---if the cap (#11) go on completely without pushing with finger (NO-NO)or a dowel--see if the cap goes on smoothly and seats properly and can be removed easily.Do this with each nipple---total time ~30 minutes---replace you nipples and go shoot---enjoy--- :thumbsup: "Doc"

 

[madcratebuilder]

You need to start with the correct nipples installed. If the hammer is hitting the nipples then you need to face the nose of the hammer until you have .001-.003 clearance. The you need to address the cap fit. Chuck a nipple in a drill and using a small file, fit as required. The cap needs to completely bottom on the nipple and be snug. These two modifications should go a long ways to eliminating the split cap problem your having.

 

[Zonie]

If you decide to reduce the cone size on the nipples, I strongly suggest that if you position the chuck on the nipples threads, you must be careful not to over-tighten it.

The hardened jaws in the drills chuck will crush the nipples threads if it is overtightened.

If the threads on the nipples are damaged and the nipples are then screwed back into the cylinder they will be VERY difficult to remove in the future.

 

[R.M.]

Instead of chucking on the threads, you can screw a nut onto the nipple, then chuck the nut. Because the nut has 6 sides, and the chuck has 3, this will work for you. Then you can just unscrew the nipple, and screw another one in at will. Saves the threads like Zonie said.

 

[Don]

My first question is who made your revolver? If it was Pietta then the Traditions nipples should have worked fine because thats who makes Traditions revolvers. I suspect that your revolver was made by Armi San Marco(ASM) or Uberti. Their nipples are probably sized differently. VTI gun parts carries nipples for all the manufacturers mentioned. If it is none of the above mentioned makers then I think filing the nipples is your only option. As far as caps jamming the works that is a common problem with colt type revolvers. It shouldn't happen all the time but perhaps once per cylinder full. If it happens more then that then there are some remidies that help.

Good Luck,

Don

 

[Kadmos]

Its made by Navy arms, I think it's a Uberti, it has a sort of U in a crest on the side.

Started filing down the nipples since I have everything on hand, being real careful of the threads and going slow, seems to be helping to give clearance between the caps and the frame where they are hanging up. Guess I'll keep working at it.

I am starting to have another issue, occasionally when cocking it passes the chamber and the hammer seems to go back father than usual..what might be causing this?

 

[Don]

Check the trigger/bolt spring and the hand spring. Either one of those may cause the over rotation but my bet is that the trigger/bolt spring is broken.

Don

 

[madcratebuilder]

I am starting to have another issue, occasionally when cocking it passes the chamber and the hammer seems to go back father than usual..what might be causing this?

For some reason the bolt is not raising to engage the notch in the cylinder. Weak or broker bolt spring, a build up of powder residue are the most common. If you replace the bolt spring i would recommend the wire spring vs the flat spring.

 

[Don]

I bought some of the Hynie wire springs and they didn't fit my revolvers(Piettas) and I sent them back. However, they only reimbursed me for the ones I didn't try to fit to my revolvers so be forwarned.

Don

 

[Kadmos]

I took the handle and trigger guard off to start to check the springs and 2 large bits of popped caps were jammed in there..seems to be working now.

Going to file down the rest of the nipples tonight, got one I think is right on, the rest all need some work.

 

[R.M.]

Is it possible that the spring is in upside down? I've heard that it's easy to do, and causes problems. Of course, as has been mentioned, the spring could also be broken.

 

[madcratebuilder]

I took the handle and trigger guard off to start to check the springs and 2 large bits of popped caps were jammed in there..seems to be working now.

That's not a uncommon problem, I've even had that happen on my ROA. Many of the used, broken C&B revolvers I buy have pieces of cap jammed in the action. It makes a easy 'repair'.

 

[mazo kid]

To help with the fired caps jamming the action.....raise the revolver barrel vertically before pulling back the hammer and rotating the cylinder. That will HELP keep pieces out as they will fall back instead of into the works.

 

[CaptainKirk]

Is it possible that the spring is in upside down? I've heard that it's easy to do, and causes problems. Of course, as has been mentioned, the spring could also be broken.

It is quite possible to install the spring upside-down. Don't ask how I know this.
Never had a cap frag get down in the trigger works, but I can sure see it happening.

 

[David Teague]

To help with the fired caps jamming the action.....raise the revolver barrel vertically before pulling back the hammer and rotating the cylinder. That will HELP keep pieces out as they will fall back instead of into the works.

I don't go quite vertical but I add a little "wrist flick" to the right as I cock the revolver to toss the fired caps to the side and back.

 

[pargent]

This also works,on ranges where its a no no to break a vertical 90 deg..After firing a shot and as your thumb is cocking the hammer,drop the muzzle maybe 10 deg. and rotate your shooting hand clock wise.I have not had a cap jam up since using this technique.,with any of my colt repos.Aparently this technique goes back to the 1850s.From the Navies on the right side inner breach face has a cut grove tospit the loose spent cap out the bottom right side as the cyc. rotates oncocking,most repos have this feature.NB. 2nd Dragoons &earlier donot have this feature.

 

[Kadmos]

Well I got the nipples filed down and back to the range, much much better. Still had a few hiccups with light primer hits due to cap bits, but it was mostly my own fault. Rolling it to the side was working real well. Until I forgot one and it apparently helped trap others.

The booths at the range are covered so its a bit dark sometimes.

I also picked up a 51 "confederate navy sheriff" (the brass frame .44 from Cabelas). That one worked real well too. Except it got stiff do to the crudding up of the massive amount of oil I only thought I got off of it.

I finally stripped them down to the frame for cleanup, found a few more cap bits. Any recommendations for the kind of oil or should I say lubricant for the innards and the main spindle?

BP and my hoppes gun oil do not seem to get along real well.

 

[CaptainKirk]

I clean with Hoppes BP solvent, the wipe down with RemOil. No incompatability issues. I imagine if you clean up with HSW there should be no problems with ANY oil.