More ignition trouble with Lyman GPR

[Skylinewatcher]

Ok yeah, mine look more like the first pictures. From these pictures it looks like a man might have to open'em some more. Here I thought I done got some free work done.

 

[ebiggs1]

What I have tried to explain in the previous posts is how I do it. That is all. I know it works. I can not remember when one of my rifles has failed to fire.

 

[Jim Evans]

Thanks for the great post. :thumbsup:

 

[Headshot]

I had the same problem with a Lyman I had. I increased the vent/flash hole liner to 5/64 and problem was solved. 18 shots no misfires. Picking the flash hole is very important, and I do that after every shot!!! Good luck! Jim

 

[Valley Forge]

Thank you, very much, for all the great advice that I have been given by people responding to this thread. I really appreciate the care and time that you put into your replies, particularly the reply from Paul, but there were helpful replies from lots of folks. Paul, I printed your reply out and I am going to re-read it a couple times.

A few thoughts, in no particular order:

Sounds like I'm not the only one having these issues. Duck Creek, I will indeed stay in touch about how I'm doing with working through this.

I hear ya, all of ya, about the touch hole being too small on the factory touch hole liner on my GPR. I want to order the RMC touch hole liner. I found this one online at RMC Sports Outlet: "ML083 RMC Flintlock Touch Hole Liner Replacements : M6 x .75 thread for Lyman" Is that the right one? It looks like it goes in with an Allen wrench. Is there any trick to getting the Lyman factory touch hole liner out? Looks like a flat blade screwdriver should un-screw it for me. Does it matter that my rifle is left-handed? By the way, I could not tell how wide the hole is on the RMC liner. Does anyone know? I am not real handy with tools (which makes firearms a sometimes frustrating hobby), so I am not going to try to drill the touch hole liner hole myself. If the RMC hole is too small, I can ask a buddy of mine to help with the drilling, but if I can get by with a $6 part by Internet mail order, I am going to just do that.

I am using cut agate flints, which seem to work well. I do get a good pan flash each time. I appreciate the authenticity of the English flints, and I got some to try, as well as some saw-cut Arkansas stone flints to try.

I am using Goex black powder, 2Fg in the bore and 4Fg in the pan. I appreciate what people are saying about the 3Fg perhaps working better in the GPR than 2Fg. I know that it is not safe to use 4Fg for the bore, but is it safe to put in a few grains (~2 grains) of 4Fg into the bore and then load the regular charge of 2Fg on top of that? Or, should I stick to "no 4Fg goes in the bore" no matter what?

I do think I was using cleaning patches that were too wet when I went to the range a couple times, but this past weekend I was really careful to use barely damp cleaning patches, I mean barely perceptible that it was damp, but I was running them down fast and then extracting the rod/patch quickly. I'll try the method of letting it stay down to a slow count of five and then pulling it out. I'm also eager to try Paul's way, of going only so far with the first barely damp patch, leaving about an inch of un-wiped bore at the breach end and then going further down with the 2nd damp patch. And, I'll try brushing the powder area with the .32 caliber brass brush before loading. I'll also try the pipe cleaner through the enlarged touch hole, after loading the main charge of powder and PRB.

I will try using alcohol instead of water for dampening the cleaning patches between rounds, but it definitely sounds like my cleaning method is the problem, and so i think the pipe cleaners in the touch hole and not pushing the crud down the powder channel when wiping the bore should help (how far in do I push the pipe cleaner into the enlarged touch hole liner hole after loading the main bore powder charge and the PRB?)

Paul, et al, thanks so much for the advice. I am not going to get discouraged.

 

[Zonie]

Although Hodgdon Powder company goes so far as to recommend using a few grains of 4F powder down the barrel to get their Pyrodex burning in a flintlock, I wouldn't recommend using it in the bore at all.

Your new vent that you ordered will probably come with a hole smaller than 1/16".
I think that most companies with the possible exception of Chambers go by the old adage, "It's easy to make a hole larger but it's real hard to make one smaller." No, you cannot install a Chambers vent liner in your gun. It has the wrong threads on it.

Speaking of your new vent, yes, the existing vent liner should unscrew by using a standard screw driver that fits the slot snugly.
Don't take offense when I remind you to use a lot of force to keep the screwdriver in the slot and unscrew it by turning the screwdriver counterclockwise and no, the fact that your gun is left handed doesn't change this.

 

[dckcrk]

Mine's a lefty too. I'm beginning to think it's a conspiracy.

 

[Larry Pletcher]

. . . . . and so i think the pipe cleaners in the touch hole and not pushing the crud down the powder channel when wiping the bore should help (how far in do I push the pipe cleaner into the enlarged touch hole liner hole after loading the main bore powder charge and the PRB?)

I'm the one who suggested the pipe cleaner. If you reread my post you'll note that I use the pipe cleaner after wiping the bore but before the powder is loaded. The idea is to use the pipe cleaner to make sure that you haven't pushed fouling into the vent when wiping. Clean is key here. When I time vents in my lab, er garage, using a pipe cleaner is one of the steps I use to make sure that the vent is squeaky clean.

(I also use compressed air through the vent, but an air compressor is hard to take on a woods walk, and is hardly PC.)

Regards,
Pletch

 

[Jim Evans]

The ML083 is the same touch hole liner I have and a 1/16 bit is loose in it,they are only $4.78 at www.rmcoxyoke.com and you get a 10% discount when you order on line,and enter discount code (online)alot faster shipping also.Yes it comes with an allen wrench and it is coned in and out.I do put some antseize on the threads and just snug it in ,no need to tork it in.

 

[msuspartan]

Thank you Sir for the VERY descriptive way to do patches. I have been shooting for quite a bit and I learned something new today. :bow:
I will try your methods especially since I just traded for a Flinter and this will give me much to think on and info to rely on while at the shoot.

Thank you all for the info on the liners too. I have one installed on the rifle but know very little about them. Learned even more today.

It is a VERY fine day when you learn something that benefits your life and to rectify any troubles with possible solutions.

Gentlemen, have a GREAT day!! :v

Cheers, DonK

 

[Valley Forge]

Thanks again !
I am ordering a new touch hole line, from RMCOXYOKE, but I guess what I will do is to take out the Lyman liner and ask a buddy to help me drill it out to 1/16 and if that does not work, we'll go to 5/64. Might as well go to 5/64 right away since I can replace the liner. Thanks for the info about which way to turn the screwdriver, and I'm not offended at all. I appreciate the info.

Pletch, I am sorry about mis-reading youre post about the pipe cleaners. I get it now. I was reading it yesterday evening after a long day at work. Now I get it and it makes perfect sense, just as you described it. Clean the bore, the clean the touch hole, then load the rifle. I have to find some pipe cleaners. We had a tobacco shop here in Lancaster, PA that was continuously operated since the colonial era, but they recently closed up shop when the owner died. My Dad smoked a pipe when we were little, so everything in the house was made out of, or repaired with pipe cleaners, but that was the last time I even saw one. I will look around for them online or at the mall.

Also, as I re-read Zonie's and Paul's posts, I was thinking that I did not mention that I use a range rod that is a 36 inch heavy brass rod with a T-handle. I got it after my first range session because I was afraid that I was going to break the Lyman wooden rod. I think this heavy brass rod is nice, but I definitely am running the damp cleaning patch in real fast and with a lot of weight/force and I suspect that is hurling some debris straight down into the powder channel. I'll slow it down, go easy, and follow what you described in the posts above. And, I'll get that liner hole opened to 4/64 or 5/64.

 

[Jim Evans]

Make sure you get the cotton type pipe cleaner,not the craft synthetic,I get mine in the tobbaco section at wally mart

 

[ebiggs1]

I still prefer you stop swabbing between shots, at least until you make your gun shoot reliably. Than you can employ any method of shooting you see fit. But if you must swab, use denatured alcohol instead of rubbing alcohol.
And by all means get rid if the sawn “flints” and get some real hand knapped flints.

 

[Valley Forge]

The ML083 is the same touch hole liner I have and a 1/16 bit is loose in it,they are only $4.78 at www.rmcoxyoke.com and you get a 10% discount when you order on line,and enter discount code (online)alot faster shipping also.Yes it comes with an allen wrench and it is coned in and out.I do put some antseize on the threads and just snug it in ,no need to tork it in.

Thanks again for the advice!
I ordered the new touch hole liner from www.rmcoxyoke.com as you suggested, and used the discount code. You said "a lot faster shipping" and I was thinking to myself, "Self, everyone thinks they know a place with fast shipping but they all ship the same way..." But WOW, you were right on! I ordered the touch hole liner two mornings ago and when I got home today there was a package with my touch hole liner!!! That sure is FAST shipping.

I was able to easily thread a 1/16 inch drill bit through the RMC touch hole, and I was even able to thread a 5/64 bit through it without too much trouble, so I guess it is at least 5/64 inch diameter. I will try to install it into my GPR and then see if I can get to the range this weekend. I am working this weekend, so might not have a chance until the following weekend, but we shall see what I can do. Duck Creek, did you ever get to drill out to 5/64 to see if that improved your situation?

Thanks!

 

[Jim Evans]

You are welcome. :thumbsup:

 

[Herb]

I have had flintlocks give flashes in the pan for unknown reasons. These are rifles I made, with L&R or Davis locks and even with White Lightning Liners. Using Goex 2F or 3F powder, don't remember which. No patent breech but a flash hole drilled to about .067. Picked vent. What I can cure it with is to put the 4F into the pan and TIP it into the vent. Then reprime the pan (I use a valve that drops about 3 grains of 4F with one quick push). This makes them go bang.

 

[vietnam71]

I hear ya, all of ya, about the touch hole being too small on the factory touch hole liner on my GPR. I want to order the RMC touch hole liner. I found this one online at RMC Sports Outlet: "ML083 RMC Flintlock Touch Hole Liner Replacements : M6 x .75 thread for Lyman" Is that the right one?

It looks like it goes in with an Allen wrench. Is there any trick to getting the Lyman factory touch hole liner out? Looks like a flat blade screwdriver should un-screw it for me.

Yes that is the correct one I just swapped mine out. Yes a flat head screw driver will work fine on the Lyman liner.

Does it matter that my rifle is left-handed?

NO

I am using cut agate flints:

I found Agates to work for only a short time. I bought Tom Fuller English Flints from TOTW 5/8 x 3/4 and got lots of good sparks.

I am using Goex black powder, 2Fg in the bore and 4Fg in the pan. I appreciate what people are saying about the 3Fg perhaps working better in the GPR than 2Fg. I know that it is not safe to use 4Fg for the bore, but is it safe to put in a few grains (~2 grains) of 4Fg into the bore and then load the regular charge of 2Fg on top of that? Or, should I stick to "no 4Fg goes in the bore" no matter what?


I'm using GOEX FFG for the load and FFFFG for the prime with excellent results.



I will try using alcohol instead of water for dampening the cleaning patches between rounds.

[b]I use alcohol between shots with no issues at all. Keep working at it! sounds like your going to get this resolved in the end.


Charlie

 

[Ivoryhunter4]

The GPR is a good rifle and there is a lot of sound advice here , I installed the RMC liner right after I built it as my first flintlock a CVA type from a Deer Creek kit gave me problems until I drilled out and coned the touch hole. Mine is a .54 I use a main charge of 2F Goex and prime with either 3F or 4F both work, the rifle is very dependable, on the few occasions it does not fire it is always after I swab it with alchohol which I do about every 5 or 6 shots, typically I just re prime and shake a little towards the touch hole and it will fire, I really suspect your load is getting damp from the swabbing it is amazing how little it takes to mess things up, also I do not know if it helps but after swabbing I touch off a pan of primer before reloading seems kind of liking popping a cap off on a percussion rifle.

 

[ebiggs1]

Here is how I do it. Go to the hardware store, a real hardware store not Home Depot, and take your liner. Get a metric nut that threads on the liner and a #50 drill. You can get a counter sink too. With it you can cone the liner if not already coned. Use the nut to hold the liner in your vise (the leather trick is a poor second to this way) and use a real power drill such as a battery powdered one. Drill the Lyman liner and cone it on the outside (just touch it to the liner, it don't take much) since they are not coned. Try it. If it works better than you can modify your RMC liner.

It won't hurt if the prime powder is against the touch hole, some say don't put it “in” the touch hole but against it doesn’t hurt. Get some Bore Butter or plain olive oil and stop swabbing between shots.

 

[flyfisher76544]

Patent breech, if you pick your vent after you load and you don't feel powder....then its not getting into the breech. Next time, after you pour the charge in, tap the barrel a few times to make sure the charge is getting into the breech.