More TC Hawken questions

[bwhoffman]

First and foremost....Thanks for all the postings and input on the stock finish for this kit I'm going to assemble. FWIW, I will be thinning some BC walnut stain and SLIGHTLY darken the raw stock.
I will then follow up with at least 4 coats of tru-oil.

NEW Question! is it advisable to "loc-tite the machine thread screws for such items as the rib, thimbles, trigger screw ect?

Next question, whats the best way to darken the brass work? Would like iron fittings but have heard tell one can blacken the brass?

Thanks for the input yet to come!

Brett

 

[ApprenticeBuilder]

Hello,
I would advise against loc-tite on the parts you mention, at some point you may want to do a complete dis-assemble of your kit and loc-tite would make this task somewhat difficult if not impossible. A broken screw is a pain to remove.

I have used a cold blu solution to darken German Silver sights with a small degree of success, this may or may not work on brass furniture. If I were going to try it, I would try it on an area that is covered, either way you will not find a permanant fix short of installing steel or iron furniture.
Hope this helps some.

 

[CoyoteJoe]

Birch-Casey offers a product called "brass black" which does darken brass but is far from permanent. I'd suggest you just wipe the brass parts with a fouled cleaning patch to hasten the natural patina. Fine sandpaper over the brass will leave a surface which takes the patina very well and quickly.
As to locktite, if you wish to remove the screws later it is only necessary to heat the parts until the locktite begins to smoke and the screws will come out easily. :grin:

 

[Joe Yanta]

Ammonia will darken brass. If you already have high polished brass fruniture you will have black chrome when your done. I give my brass a flat finish by buffing lightly with a fine wire wheel and then gentle burnishing with fine steel wool. I then expose to ammonia either my vapor or immersion.

I purchased a solution called Patina-it at a hobby shop that works very well. Patina-it Verde(green) Weathering/antiquing solution for copper and brass, is what is says on the lable. Now this stuff works like you want it to but you must have good clean brass. No varnish, oxidation, existing patina, oil, wax or finger prints. I have a small air brush mini sand blaster that I clean my brass with before using Patina-it.

No phone number on the lable, just:
A-west
box 1144
Woodstock, GA 30188

Good luck.

Joe

 

[roundball]

First and foremost....Thanks for all the postings and input on the stock finish for this kit I'm going to assemble. FWIW, I will be thinning some BC walnut stain and SLIGHTLY darken the raw stock.
I will then follow up with at least 4 coats of tru-oil.

NEW Question! is it advisable to "loc-tite the machine thread screws for such items as the rib, thimbles, trigger screw ect?

Next question, whats the best way to darken the brass work? Would like iron fittings but have heard tell one can blacken the brass?

Thanks for the input yet to come!

Brett

Loc-Tite is fine...I've used it on many screws on rifles and shotguns all my[url] life...in[/url] particular on the rib and thimble screws, plus the bridle plate screws, on several TC Hawkens.

Just be certain you use the "Blue" color NOT the "Red" color[url] loc-tite.....in[/url] fact, the blue colored version is also marketed under the name "Gun-Tite" for intended use on firearms.

Also, I just wet 3 threads at the very end of the screws as you don't need much...never had a problem getting one out.

 

[CrackStock]

LocTite comes in a variety of strengths and uses. I believe that the one that you would want is 242 which can be loosened with normal hand tools rather than a harder variety that requires solvents or more extreme measures to loosen.

RTFM
Read the free manual -- or in this case, label.

CS

 

[John Taylor]

I secound the blue Loctite. I use the red ( high strength)to hold things I don't want to come loose, like barrel liners. The blue will hold things from comming loose under vibration but will still let you take it apart when you want.

 

[bwhoffman]

Joe,
can you elaborate on the process?
how much time in the ammonia, what type of ammonia, will store bought work?

soaking now!


Thanks,
Brett

 

[Vaino]

Apply cold blue {I use 44/40} over all exposed surfaces, let dry and then rub lightly w/ 0000 steel wool. More rubbing on areas that normally would see more wear and the corners and moldings naturally would retain more of the black. If done properly, a very nice "shading" of the brass yields a subtle, older look. Has anyone used the ammonia first, followed by the cold blue and is it even possible? Sounds like the "perfect" combination.....Fred

 

[Goldhunter]

Haven't used loctite, but Blackpowder residue on brass works really well.