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Most Dangerous Practices....

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papabang said:
Bad thing is the guy next to you has a technical question or a couple of spectators come over to watch you and you don't want to seem rude so you try to take care of them...rest is history.

Seems to me this is one of the most dangerous situations as it is likely to be one of the most common and can easily bite even the most careful, conscientious MLer in the buttocks.

Had this happen last weekend at the range. The guy next to me was really interested in my .54 and wanted to talk MLing. He kept interrupting me during my loading routine -- a situation that emphasized to me in my own mind how important a loading routine is and how dangerous distractions are. Thank goodness I had sense enough to either ask him to wait if I had started my loading sequence or wait to start until he was done.

This episode caused me to start numbering my loading steps and saying them out loud as I completed them. I figure if this idea was good enough for the success of the Dirty Dozen's plans, it is a great idea for mine. :thumbsup:
 
good point ... it's often the insidious, sneaky or mundane which get you hurt just as badly as the stupid or obvious.
 
By the numbers...hadn't thought of that. My technique (at the bench) is lining up what I use at each step and then moving it as I complete the sequence.

Firing line loading is less of a problem because it's just me and all I have to contend with is dropping stuff...
 
In Belgium we must use premeasured powder charges. I had some speed loader tubes with end caps. I sawed them in half so that I had 14 one inch tubes (one fouling shot and 13 scoring shots for one competition target). I took a half inch high piece of timber scrap and glued the speed loader end caps on top of that. The speed loader halves are loaded at home with an OPwad and patch and ball. In front of the stick with end caps I glued some tubes that once held some seed beads... They had the right diameter to hold the powder charge tubes. I glued some stiff cardboard around the contraption and wrapped some duck tape around it for strength. I load this with 14 preloaded speedloader halves (with ball - patch and opw) and 14 tubes premeasured powder charges. I cannot forget the powder anymore because if there still is a powder charge in front of a loaded speedloader tube I will see it... This system is also handy for timed matches (13 shots in 30 minutes) since you only have to put the powder in your barrel and in a second motion you shove the opw and the nicely centered patch and ball with the sprue nicely on top, in one smooth push down the barrel. I agree - this system it is not ment for hunters, but for timed competition shooters this is a handy and safe system...
 
papabang said:
By the numbers...hadn't thought of that. My technique (at the bench) is lining up what I use at each step and then moving it as I complete the sequence.

Firing line loading is less of a problem because it's just me and all I have to contend with is dropping stuff...

Yeah, papabang, I started laying out each component for the shot on the bench as well; I figure between that and counting steps, I should be less likely to goof up. As with many things in life, protocol will save your bacon every time!
 
I suppose that's why I really like my two .58 Civil War rifles: my paper cartridges make loading a quick two-step operation.

But I have read that under fire back then, a lot of rifles were loaded multiple times by panicked troops.
 
nessmuk said:
Blowing down the barrel after the shot.

I don't want my face anywhere near the muzzle -- ever! :nono: I was taught to run an unpatched jag the length of the barrel twice. Is that correct?
 
Blowing down the barrel is a definite no-no!
Recently, during a bp shooting match I saw a competitor who still blew down the barrel, but with a small plastic tube, while his face was well away from the barrel...
I allways run a damp alcohol patch down the barrel between each shot... Never risked putting my face or hands over the barrel...
 
Sunkmanitu Tanka said:
Blowing down the barrel is a definite no-no!
Recently, during a bp shooting match I saw a competitor who still blew down the barrel, but with a small plastic tube, while his face was well away from the barrel...
I allways run a damp alcohol patch down the barrel between each shot... Never risked putting my face or hands over the barrel...

I must admit that I have never felt the need to look down a ML barrel once I have put powder in it...
Still how can you load one without putting your hand over the muzzle? At least a significant part of it?
Better yet how would you load this?
P1020108.jpg

Or any other double barreled gun?

How do you keep a patch on the muzzle with the wind blowing?

How do you start a ball?
How do you hold the ball-patch in place on the muzzle to withdraw the loading rod?
IMGP0606.jpg


How do you seat the ball with firm and uniform pressure so as to get some semblance of accuracy?

:doh:

Modern firearms safety practices are not fully applicable to MLs for reasons so obvious I should not have to even post this.

Loading accidents are the result of two causes.
1; (again) not paying attention/ignorance/stupidity/laziness.
2; allowing excess fouling to build up in the breech which ignites a subsequent charge (often related to #1).

The last of #2 I read of occurred at the trap range at Friendship.

Frankly some (most perhaps) of the guns people shoot here are so scary that when at matches I keep the shooters head between me and the breech or retreat a safe distance. I NEVER stand to the side of a drum and nipple gun. They tend to exit at speed sometimes. How is the fit of the nipple threads? These blow out too. BTDT with both in my youth. Both require careful installation. I have not made a D&N gun in 30 odd years.
Barrels made of cheap steel and/or faulty assembly cause more accidents than occur during loading. But people think its the SHOOTER who made the mistake when in reality his only mistake is using a barrel made of low quality steel.
A well known ML barrel maker stated on another ML site that if he had a bar of steel with a visible or audible (from interrupted cut on the lathe) CRACK that he could turn down until the crack disappeared he would use the bar for a barrel anyway. Of course he uses one of the cheapest steels he can buy for barrels as do most "custom" ML "barrel makers" and apparently has little concern for his customers safety. This steel is generally supplied with a goodly number of cracks and lots of inclusions of lead, sulfur and phosphorus from the steel mill.

So as a gunmaker when I think "ML Safety" I automatically think of all the cheap barrels and sloppy workmanship that is actually the STANDARD for most MLs in America.
Someone on another site was whining because he BLEW the breech out of a barrel he proved in the wood of a finished gun. Good thing he did prove it I guess... But in the wood?
It was a GM barrel and frankly I don't know how he could do this other than not knowing what he was doing or was using a faulty cast part. See "sloppy workmanship" above. The threaded breech properly fit, even with 1/2" thread engagement in the typical caliber ML is the strongest part of the barrel.
But it has to be done correctly. Still, some "custom" "barrel makers" are very sloppy in this regard...

Back in the day pulling a firearm from the wagon muzzle first was a significant caused fatalities.
Not very long ago a guy I know casually, who should have known better, fatally shot himself buy pulling an AR-15 from a vehicle muzzle first.

The account I read of previous to this involved a loaded ML that had been UNCAPPED and thus was "safe". Gun fired when pulled from the vehicle. Shot to the arm IIRC.
So here is another thing to consider. It is extremely dangerous to remove a cap from a percussion gun in any event. They can and sometimes will fire during the process OR leave enough compound on the nipple to fire the gun later. The material is impact and FRICTION sensitive.
So if the hammer is put down on a contaminated nipple and slides on the nipple face even slightly the firearm will likely discharge perhaps hours or days after its been "made safe".
Discharges of this kind are often attributed to "static" but static will not fire BP.
So there are other, often hidden things that can cause death or injury besides putting parts of your hand over the muzzle while loading.
But it is inconvenient for most shooters to think about sloppy workmanship or unsuitable materials...

Dan
 
Damnit Dan,
Every time I read one of your safety or workmanship quality posts I get all freaked out and ready to cart all my factory made muzzel loaders to the county dump.
You are freaking me out.
I almost took a CVA breach apart back a week or so ago because of your panick the noobs posts.

There I got it out and I feel better now.

Other than that I like you and I am sure to read your posts when I see them. But you have a tone in your safety posts that puts panick in my heart.
 
Don't do that!!! :grin: . I usually swab between shots because it removes a lot of fouling, puts out any embers, etc, etc. It's true you have to have your hand over the muzzle in seating the ball but at that point the ball isn't in the bore, it's just on top. Every time I ram the ball I hold the ramrod such that if the impossible does happen the ramrod isn't pointing at me.
On blowing down the barrel. I don't do it but it is done after the charge has been fired and if it is part of your routine I don't see the harm except you might develop a bad habit of having your head over the muzzle. I think those that do such cup their hand over the muzzle while keeping their head to one side of the barrel.
Not much is said about a flat versus coned breech. If you scrap the inside bottom of the barrel with a flat scraper but your firearm has a coned breech, the flat scraper leaves a lot of residue in the bottom and it is sort of like the stuff inside a chimney and could theoretically hold an ember. Make sure you have the right type scraper for your firearm.
If I was to summarize- I think the records of accidents while in the field/hunting that pertain most to muzzle loaders is the lack of a good safety mechanism on many guns and the non- unloading of the gun at the end of the day which is often done so that the entire works doesn't have to be reloaded the next day if you are going hunting that day as well. Load and unload away from vehicles and other people and a lot of trouble is avoided.
 
I fabricated a false muzzle for my gun. As I explained in another post, I sawed some speed loaders in half that I load in advance at home.
The half speed loadrs are filled with an OPW, patch and ball all nicely centered.
The fals muzzle goes on the barrel, the speed loader gos on top. I use a short starter and a range rod with a thick handle. It takes longer to explain than to do this. With the use of ths accasoiries I minimize as much as possible to place my hands over th muzzle, and only in such a way that an eventual but unlikely discharge would not be able to pas through the palm of my hand. I would probably only suffer some burns... To avoid a discharge I swab with an alcoholpatch between each shot. For the rest I take great care while handling a gun...
 
Dan,
I would add to your list of the causes of ML accidents: Insufficient or incorrect information given to beginners by store employees where their first muzzleloader was purchased. There's no malice there, but a store employee assigned to the Sporting Goods Department doesn't necessarily come to work with complete knowledge of every item in the department. A lot of false and/or partial information has been passed on in good faith by folks who were just trying to do their job and didn't really understand the possible consequences of loading a ML firearm incorrectly.
One such occurrence was the impetus behind the beginning of ML Hunter Safety classes in New England that later spread to other parts of the country. So ... to your list I would add, "Trying to use an ML firearm without fully understanding how it works and what the safety precautions are."

Ol' Foot
 
Dan



cynthialee said:
Damnit Dan,
Every time I read one of your safety or workmanship quality posts I get all freaked out and ready to cart all my factory made muzzel loaders to the county dump.
You are freaking me out.
I almost took a CVA breach apart back a week or so ago because of your panick the noobs posts.

There I got it out and I feel better now.

Other than that I like you and I am sure to read your posts when I see them. But you have a tone in your safety posts that puts panick in my heart.

"Panic the noobs?"

When I talk about keeping the shooters head between me and the breech I am not kidding. I have been known to retreat behind cover after watching some "Noob/Boob" load a homemade cannon for a salute to start a match. Packing it hard with an iron rammer. Only to find friend already there for the same reason. I had all the experience with the "zing" of shrapnel cutting the air and the smell of maimed bodies I needed by the time I was 21.

If you do RESEARCH and take apart enough guns or have contact with people who have you WILL get nervous and you should. Builders relate horror stories related to chlorate powder use.
But people prefer the "head in the sand" approach to thinking about firearms workmanship and materials. Its more comfortable.
Couple this with the use of powder made with Perchlorate and the chances of a corrosion related failure of one kind or another increase greatly as well.

Start asking questions at matches. Most people don't volunteer information but there are others who have blown out nipples and had drums break off.
Look CLOSELY at the firearms people shoot substitute powders in. Look for pitting and "frosting". Was the barrel hot tank blued (as all the factory mades are) and now the barrel has no internal blue? Does it foul excessively if BP is used? These are signs of a pit either a frosty looking micro pit (this will look like little craters of the Moon under magnification) or pitting to the point that it holds excess BP fouling when the traditional propellant is used. This may be more pronounced below mid point of the bore than at the muzzle. Many pitted bores will become unusable with BP due to excessive fouling buildup before accuracy suffers with the substitute.

I am not attempting to panic anyone but people need to have the information to make informed decisions.

Here is an example, of sorts, its fresh in my mind and angered me since a woman I know was maimed doing something that people told them not to. I.E. Make cast a iron Ballard action into a centerfire rifle. This summer at a major BPCR match it failed and her left had was seriously injured.
The amazing part was two other individuals who had also converted or had someone else covert cast Ballards to CF continued to use the rifles through the rest of the match. They did not fail. Does this mean they are safe? No it means the shooters were lucky.
What does this have to do with MLs? The moral is that people should not shoot guns made of unsuitable materials, or by extension improperly assembled firearms (Ballards need to be "setup" by someone who knows how they really work to be truly safe). No matter which end its loaded from.
This has been brought to the "modern" shooting public's attention by failures in modern shotguns, pistols and rifles by big name makers who cut a corner on material selection, some very recently.
So its not just MLs.... The difference is that the modern makers cannot always use the "handloader" defense. A "loophole" successfully used to keep makers of ML guns/components with poor engineering and substandard materials safe from harm for decades now... So, in the end, they are largely immune and some just don't seem to care as a result.
And then there is a fallacy that its impossible to blow up a ML with BP. So if one DOES fail the shooter often blames himself. Not understanding that the use of improper steels can result in barrels failing after thousands of rounds due to the steel failing from repeated firing.

Improper material choices can result in failure at anytime or never failing. But the chances of a failure are increased by poor choice of materials, in the case of many ML barrels risks are taken by the use of steels that a steel maker, decades ago, stated should not be used for gun barrels. The fact that some barrels made from the steel will stand incredible overloads when tested further confuses the issue. But its not possible to pressure test material that has properties that make it unsuitable. It may pass the pressure test then fail, either just because or because the over pressure set up the failure by making the material just a little more brittle.

BP simply will not produce the pressure needed to burst a modern steel barrel. The steel is too strong, yet barrels fail. Why? The steel, while more than strong enough for any BP pressure level ON PAPER has PROPERTIES that make it subject to brittle failure at pressures far lower than its paper tensile strength. This is why a relatively weak material like clean wrought iron is actually safer than some modern, brittle, free machining steels. "Best quality" wrought iron was used in our Rifle Muskets of the CW. Once proved to eliminate barrels with flaws in the weld or material they were considered safe and many are still in use.
Unsuitable material cannot be proved to show its safe since the material is inherently unsafe as a gun barrel. Basically the steel may fail at anytime at a pressure level that is a fraction of its paper strength because it has poor strength when subjected to internal pressure and shock. In other words it might tolerate a number of overloads then fail at a far lower pressure level with the next shot or the 10000th or never. Shock loading is a major factor in firearms barrel/cylinder failures of all kinds. The faster the pressure is applied the weaker the material becomes. It is the rapid pressure rise that allows an HE to "cut" a steel beam. The same pressure level, applied over a longer period of time will at most only deform the steel. "Flashover" type events with light loads of smokeless produce a HE velocity pressure rise and this will "break" any steel with charges that simply cannot produce the pressure needed to burst a barrel. BP barrels that fail fail primarily due to shortcomings in the material.

High quality 4150 is the best barrel steel for almost any purpose. It is very resistant to internal pressure and shock. It is so strong as a "pressure vessel" that its impossible to harm it with BP loads. Since its used for barrels for cartridges that make something the 55000-65000 psi range including automatic weapons. Those with combat experience know how hot a belt fed MG barrel gets. These are a form of 4150 if I am correctly informed.
Steels, like those used to make screws in automatic screw machines (leaded screw stock) are not suitable for shock loading or internal pressure based on what I have been told by a retired metallurgist who is also a ML shooter and builder and the steel makers recommendations published in the old Buckskin Report back in the 1980s. But its cuts so smooth (its primary design criteria afterall), causes minimal tool wear and does not require any followup work once the grooves are cut so many ML barrel makers in the US use it.
If one blows up now and then "its the shooters fault" "because the barrels don't fail". Unless they do.
4150 is harder to cut, wears tools at an increased rate and may well need a lapping operation to smooth the bore afterwards.
So its easy to see why the hobby-home grade barrel makers like the stuff.
Surprisingly, or maybe not, the Italians, Pedersoli and others as well I am sure, use a good barrel steel. But then the guns all have to be run through a gov't proof house.
The stuff coming from India for the re-enactor groups? At least two of these have burst with blank charges with no wadding...

So since I have been slow in developing the ability to regrow body parts I have become more and more cautious as I get older.

Dan
 
Zonie said:
So where do we get these fully heat treated 4150 steel barrels for a reasonable price?

There is no "reasonable price" for a 4150 barrel as "reasonable" is viewed by the average ML buyer. I have 2 Jim McLemore barrels one is on this rifle which weighs just under 18 pounds
P1030530.jpg


Its 1 1/4" x 44" x 50 caliber and is very accurate. Its won about $200 in prize money since I started to shoot it in matches.
The other barrel is an identical 45 caliber still in the gun safe. Cost to me? $425 each. Since cut rifled barrels for "moderns" from Krieger run 310 and up $425 is not unreasonable for an octagonal barrel of these dimensions.
BTW he test fires them before final machining and if they don't shoot through the same hole at 50 or 100 he recuts them.
See sleepyhillbarrels.com for details

The best compromise for most people is Green Mountain's 1137 barrels. I think that there are others who use it or will if specified. Perhaps Long Hammock will cut 1137 not sure.
http://www.caywoodguns.com/gun barrel steel.htm
is a good place to look for barrel information and perhaps find barrels.

You can also contact Tip Curtis Frontier Shop in Cross Plains TN he usually has a supply of GM barrels.
Rayle barrels will make alloy steel as well but not sure of the alloy. 8620, similar to 4140, is one I think he uses.
I have read that The Gun Works in Oregon (Oregon Barrel Co) can make barrels in either 1137 or 41xx but not sure which. The last time I talked to their barrel maker was 4-5 years ago I think and at that time they didn't.

1137 is strong enough to stand heavy loads of smokeless in destructive and lab testing of BPCRs.
It would not be my first choice, but I prefer them if I can get them. But they are not a custom maker either so custom profiles are not available.

The thing is that gun barrel quality be it 1137 or one of the 41xx alloys is very expensive and hard to get. Small producers have to pool orders to get enough tonnage since its only made in furnace melt quantities and only when ordered.
All the higher quality steels must be ordered. It is also certified as to quality. The quality certification means that the flaws and inclusions in the bars will not exceed a certain level.
Most ML barrels made in the US by "custom makers" are made of what ever scrap the steel mill puts in the furnace, its alloyed to meet the specification, in the case of 12L14 it means there are high levels of lead, sulfur and phosphorus to make it machine cleanly. Its run out at the proper time. Its rolled to approximate size and then its cold rolled to make the chips break cleanly as the cutter works against it.
All these things are bad, the lubricant metals make inclusions, the cold rolling makes it brittle and increases in tensile strength on paper. Nobody much cares about flaws or inclusions in hardware store wood screws and such.
Ever had one twist off for no reason at very low torque when screwing it into a piece of walnut or maple? I have break like pot metal sometimes... 12L14 or similar.
So many ML barrels are made of one of the cheapest available steels intentionally made to be unsuitable for barrels so as to be optimised for its designed purpose, then its work hardened to make it even worse. But it cuts nice.
Hot rolled 1010-1020 would be better and I have read this has been used for 45 acp barrels and might still be in some cases. But hot rolled low carbon steel is also difficult to machine cleanly. 1010 is very close to the modern definition of iron. It can be very gummy and likes to stick to the cutting tool. So the "custom" ML barrel makers don't like it either.

The fact that the average ML barrel buyer buys by price first, second is they want the barrel breeched. Since GM barrels are not breeched (which I prefer) and are harder to draw file the average ML barrel buyer and makers who all should know better, like to use 12l14.
So GM which makes a very nice and accurate barrel of serviceable material may go out the ML barrel business. If they are working on gov't contracts as I have heard they were a couple of years ago they can't have 1137 in the plant anyway. Steel not within the gov't spec present in the plant voids the contract (the military takes barrel steels seriously).


Dan
 
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