Mountain rifle trigger help

[eodcoduto]

Working on the triggers but this is a tang question, the tang and barrel should fit together without a gap correct? Here is how mine fits with the plug lip innthe tang groove. They fit at an angle in the stock without a gap but the groove is skipped.

 

[TDM]

It should fit flush with the hook through the back of the tang.

 

[Red Owl]

This all brings up an interesting question. Have any of you dealt if a stock pinned trigger? his is a simple trigger with a very high tab extending upward and held in place with a cross pin. The cross pin is so high that the hole starts in the lock mortise and exits the other side just below the side plate. You see this (the pin just below the side plate) on a lot of original rifles. You can get about a 2 lb pull depending on the lock and for most hunting, that is fib=ne. The set trigger at that point would only be an advantage for the target range or very long range shots. Right now, manufacturer's have the trigger attached to the trigger plate which is a low position and creates a heavy trigger pull.

 

[TDM]

Stock pinned triggers were used in original pistols. To what percentage I can’t say.

 

[eodcoduto]

I think that I have it figured out for me. When uncocked I can set the rear trigger, but I don’t see the point. With this trigger set, setting the rear trigger only moves the front trigger bar closer to the lock pin, it doesn’t change the pull weight at all. I can adjust the screws to take out the slack but I don’t see the benefit. The only way to make it a hair trigger is to set the rear, cock it, and have the front adjusted so its putting pre-load on the sear, which I don’t like. So I’m removing the rear trigger and just sticking with one.

 

[Red Owl]

I'm not sure what you are saying and there are a variety of lock systems but if fired unset- most have around a 7 pound pull and if set and fired- 1-2 pound pull. That is- if they can be fired both ways. There are some systems in which the trigger has to be set to fire.

 

[necchi]

So I’m removing the rear trigger and just sticking with one.

Well what works best for you is the best. It's your gun.
Too bad you can't find the balance of lock/trigger adjustments to make the double triggers work

 

[eodcoduto]

Ive never shot set triggers and this is a cheap starter bp rifle so I’m not too upset about it.

 

[necchi]

Here is how mine fits with the plug lip in the tang groove. They fit at an angle in the stock without a gap but the groove is skipped.

You have a tang for the CVA button breech plug, you need one for the hook breech plug for a proper fit.
The following link is for ID reference only;
https://www.deercreekproducts.net/store/p910/Hawken_Barrel_-_P311.html

Ive never shot set triggers and this is a cheap starter bp rifle so I’m not too upset about it.

and;

I put the triggers in a vice and pressed them to match the curve of the stock,

I sure do wish I could have helped, it's not too complicated, but there are a few things learned from past mistakes that when shared can help others.
Good luck,,

 

[eodcoduto]

Thanks for the help on the tang, I’ll find a new one.

 

[Grenadier1758]

I am building a CVA mountain rifle kit and I’m having trouble with the triggers. Out of the stock they operate as they should. When in the stock and shimmed to the point they are flush with the stock they will both set and fire with the lock not cocked. Once the lock is cocked the rear trigger will not set and the front is iffy. If I shim them out 1/8” past the wood I can get the rear to set. The triggers and the stock’s curve are on a different radius but other than that I’m stuck. Any help is appreciated.

I am going to assume that the lock functions correctly when out of the stock. The triggers function correctly when out of the stock.

There are three adjustment screws for the triggers. One of the adjustments that often give problems is the adjustment of the large main spring screw at the end of the trigger bar. Often it is screwed in far more than is needed and this raises the rear trigger lever too high and that interferes with the sear lever in the lock. Back that rear screw out 1/2 turn. That spring only needs to strong enough to drive the rear lever up to disengage the sear lever. If the rear trigger can't be set when the lock is in full cock, then the sear lever is likely digging into the wood in the lock mortise. The sear lever may be too long, and it only needs to be long enough to extend over the trigger lever.

When reassembling the parts, I would install the triggers first and properly located so the trigger plate is flush with the stock. I then set the triggers, so the trigger levers are in their lowest position before installing the lock. This allows the sear lever to be installed above the trigger levers. Then the two screws for engagement of the triggers can be adjusted.