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mule ear questions

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tom in nc

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I am trying to learn all I can about the different forms of ignition used on muzzleloading firearms, including side hammer, or mule ear guns. I have read two statements about mule ear guns that make me wonder... One is that some mule ear locks have no half **** position, and the second is that some mule ear locks have a quarter **** position. My questions are, why a quarter position? In place of a half **** position because a half **** position would cause the hammer to stick out too far? Or did a mule ear need a quarter position and a half plus obviously a full **** position? Thanks.
 
While I'm asking... What threads are normally used in a mule ear barrel for the nipple? Should the nipple screw directly into the barrel or would there be an insert then the nipple? Could a barrel with a hole for a drum be plugged or adapted to recieve a nipple for use with a mule ear lock?
 
Tom, the quarter, half **** issue can be best described as that is what the lock builder or the rifle owner wanted. There is really no reason it is any different than any other lock. The thought of the hammer sticking out too far, may have been part of the reasoning.

The nipple does screw directly into the barrel and the threads size was determined by what the builder had. Today the standard would probably be 1/4x28, but could be any size that would not be too big for the barrel flat.. You could remove a drum and directly screw a nipple into that hole if the size was correct or you could plug and adapt the drum hole and modify for your size nipple. Matching the hammer nose to the original hole location would be the main issue.

The mule ear system allows for direct ignition and is very efficient.
 
Tom, the quarter, half **** issue can be best described as that is what the lock builder or the rifle owner wanted. There is really no reason it is any different than any other lock. The thought of the hammer sticking out too far, may have been part of the reasoning.

The nipple does screw directly into the barrel and the threads size was determined by what the builder had. Today the standard would probably be 1/4x28, but could be any size that would not be too big for the barrel flat.. You could remove a drum and directly screw a nipple into that hole if the size was correct or you could plug and adapt the drum hole and modify for your size nipple. Matching the hammer nose to the original hole location would be the main issue.

The mule ear system allows for direct ignition and is very efficient.
And its one advantage over the under hammer is that one can tell at a glance that the cap is still in place.
 
And its one advantage over the under hammer is that one can tell at a glance that the cap is still in place.
Yeah, I can see shooters turning their underhammers 90 degrees before cocking them to see if the cap was still in place. Because caps are so scarce and expensive these days if I drop one I'll surely look for it.
Reminds me of something I heard a flintlock shooter say, "If God intended for us to shoot percussion guns, caps would be laying around on the ground."
'Course I've never had much luck finding flint "laying around on the ground" myself.
 
The lost cap thing always amuses me some? I try to custom fit the cones on my Mule ear and Under hammer builds. Frankly,
I've lost more caps off a conventional percussion :dunno:
 
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