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my 36 caliber longrifle pics

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My general rule of thumb goes like this:

"If you had a time machine and went to an old-time turkey shoot with your gun - would you draw a crowd of gawkers? Wondering what strange new weapon you have?"

Or "Would the people of that time simply take a look and inquire about who the maker was?"

I think Goo's gun would pass. It would draw some attention but only for the liberal artistic license. Perhaps the worst thing would be if you imagine the people of the time asking who the gunmaker was so that they could avoid 'em.
 
It is pretty obvious that the stock coloration leaves something to be desired I don't mind admitting it. It's my first time working with maple, it has stain and tung oil on it maybe acetone will get it off and I could try something else.
 
flehto said:
I do build LRs which are pretty much HC and have never held an original. How is it done? By buying the best books that have examples of LRs that you would like to simulate and becoming educated by various sources that pertain to the styles you want to build. Of course this research takes time and effort...but in lieu of "the real thing", it's the only procedure.

Ditto. Living in the Lancaster area, I've had the opportunity to "see" many originals in various displays, but looking at LRs for a few moments in a glass case has not been nearly as valuable as the countless hours spent going through books and research, and the advice of many on this forum. :grin:

I did have the opportunity to handle on original Melchoir Fordney LR once at the antique firearms show in Cockeysville, MD. Could have been mine if I had $25,000 on me. :shocked2:
 
it has stain and tung oil

Stain . . . you mean like what you buy at the local hardware store or Home Depot?

Tung oil should give a pretty nice finish. How many coats of oil? I looks like you only did one or two.

The first couple coats of oil will soak right into the wood and it really only "darkens" the wood a bit (like makes it look wet). Subsequent coats will give it a real glossy finish. You can leave it glossy if you like, or you can rough it up a bit with steel wool. Then you buff it again with an old T-shirt. You can get a nice satinny luster.

I ruined a lot of maple (only one gunstock) until I finally learned how to bring out the 3-dimensional luster. Not really ruined, but it is almost impossible to bring it back once a pigment is used.

To do maple, you can: use commercial aquafortis, or dissolve steel wool in vinegar.
 
To do maple, you can: use commercial aquafortis, or dissolve steel wool in vinegar.

This i will have to try. i use it mixed with oak shavings on leather to turn it blackish. remember to wash the steel wool with acetone to remove any oils in it.
 
yes hardware store stain,, the tung oil stayed sticky wouldnt dry so I wiped it of and reapeated 4 times with same results.
 
To do maple, you can: use commercial aquafortis, or dissolve steel wool in vinegar.

I have nitric acid that I use for gold work
 
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