My bear grease is lazy

[oldwood]

Wish I could still buy Dixie GW Old Zip patch grease. It was sheep fat rendered , and shot best I've ever had. It was ok to use in winter hunting. I ruined some rendered liquid bear fat tying to make it a little thicker. Recipe said to thicken the liquid bear fat w/ some real bee's wax. Though I followed the instructions , I added too much bee's wax , causing the bear fat to be too thick.Could just barely lube patches in summer. Cool weather , the lube was too thick.

 

[bpd303]

The one & only time I used bear grease as a patch lube, a friend of mine had some, he said was thinned with a little sweet oil (Olive oil) and it shot pretty good for me. That was with my J Withers mule ear over under 40 cal rifled upper and .600 under smooth bore He passed away about ten years ago.

 

[TDM]

I have some that I got from @deerstalkert. Think it’s a 50/50 beeswax mix. Works great.

 

[morehops52]

Your rifle is 0bviously allergic to bear grease. Just be glad it didn't get a case of hives. My local Asian restauranr raves about duck fat and while i don't know if they use it for ML's you might want to give it a try.

 

[deerstalkert]

I have some that I got from @deerstalkert. Think it’s a 50/50 beeswax mix. Works great.

50/50 is what i usually blend. it seems to be workable in warm temps and down to about freezing.
below freezing i use the rendered fat straight.
i must be missing something but i have never considered lube as a factor in accuracy. my criteria is keeping fouling soft for ease in repeated shots.
maybe that is why i am a terrible shot?

 

[Nuthatch]

I can't say I've noticed much of any difference in POI or accuracy with any lube -- spit, soapy water, bear grease/beeswax, simple green, bore butter... Doesn't seem to matter on the range but some work better than others at the loading or cleaning procedures. Bear grease/beeswax is my preferred lube for hunting. It resists smoldering better than a dry or oiled patch. Loading that second shot is a little stiff. A third shot is hard without swabbing. For range work, I much prefer soapy water. Goes down slick as snot for just about every shot & wipes the bore on the way. I just don't want that sitting on the powder charge for multiple days in variable weather.

 

[45man]

I have spent years testing lubes of all kinds for BP and modern revolvers and rifles. I found a lube change can turn a shotgun pattern into one hole groups. Yes I tried SPG and the stuff sucked, fouling was bad and I could not give away what was left at a shoot. I thought I could sell it but even a free sign was ignored.

 

[The Crisco Kid]

Two things come to mind. One, it's illegal to sell bear parts taken in Alaska except for the hide and skull after they have been sealed (tagged) so better not sell it, especially on the internet.
Two, how come no one has mentioned using it for shoe grease or hair oil?

 

[Bad Karma]

Ya just never know. In one state I used to live in out west, I always bought a bear tag just in case. Never saw a bear. One year I decided not to buy one. Well, one morning I was heading out for an elk hunt and I got the feeling that perhaps I should stop on the way and get a bear tag after all. Lo and behold, within an hour I got my first bear.

When my (ahem) good friend was a young man he was stalked by a cinnamon colored sow as he was cow calling a nice 6x6 bull. He spotted the bear when she was less than ten yards away. Whispered, “psst! Get away bear!” Provoked her to take another step and raise her hackles. His Black Widow recurve was laying cross his knees, arrow nocked so he just pulled it back to three quarter draw and snap shot the Razorhead through her throat and into her spine. She dropped right there. In those days you could buy a bear tag any day of the season so after dressing , skinning, and quartering that fat sow I was down to town to see Al Hoya about a bear tag. Told him, “I need a bear tag.” Looking at the bloody t shirt, hands and arms, he said, “Yes, you do. You never know when you’re gonna run across a bear.”

 

[M. De Land]

This is how I have it ….

I think it has to do with how much it is rendered. I render mine in a crock pot on high for about 12 hours, skim off the cracklins and strain through cheese cloth. It comes out pure white once it solidifies when cooled and the consistency of Criso. I use it with equal parts Murphy's oil soap and Beez wax melted together. After it spoifies (foaming chemical reaction to the Murphy's oil soap I think) it remains very stable and does not melt in in hot weather or freeze in quite cold weather.
This really is a version of Mathews lube for black powder cartridge bullets but melted into felt wads seems to work very well so far.
When still hot and melted( shown in boiling water here) after the chemical reaction it is amber in color and as soon as it solidifies becomes white as shown in the first pictures.

 

[M. De Land]

I think it has to do with how much it is rendered. I render mine in a crock pot on high for about 12 hours, skim off the cracklins and strain through cheese cloth. It comes out pure white once it solidifies when cooled and the consistency of Criso. I use it with equal parts Murphy's oil soap and Beez wax melted together. After it spoifies (foaming chemical reaction to the Murphy's oil soap I think) it remains very stable and does not melt in in hot weather or freeze in quite cold weather.
This really is a version of Mathews lube for black powder cartridge bullets but melted into felt wads seems to work very well so far.
When still hot and melted( shown in boiling water here) after the chemical reaction it is amber in color and as soon as it solidifies becomes white as shown in the first pictures.

Oops, I had forgotten I had already posted the pictures of the modified Mathews lube !