My drill press is junk

[billraby]

Everyone loves the old machines. They were definitely made quite well. But 50 to 80 years of use can wear them out. Many of them have seen continuous use for decades. Don't assume that a machine is super awesome just because it is old and heavy. If you find a machine that has seen decades of light to no use you can very likely have something excellent with a little work. But much of the old equipment that I have seen needed major restoration work before it would be useful.

 

[vintovka]

Everyone loves the old machines. They were definitely made quite well. But 50 to 80 years of use can wear them out. Many of them have seen continuous use for decades. Don't assume that a machine is super awesome just because it is old and heavy. If you find a machine that has seen decades of light to no use you can very likely have something excellent with a little work. But much of the old equipment that I have seen needed major restoration work before it would be useful.

True. Caution is advised on any used metal working machinery but these deltas hold accuracy well. Prolly did 10 years on it adding precision optics to unmentionables and rebuilding my 54 Chevy Air Force truck. It did not need any parts. Condition is everything and a dial gauge on a magnetic stand can tell the tale. New foreign stuff can come from same factory but different quality's due to oversight and how prisoners are fed. Grizzely does have better stuff.

 

[sheriff john]

Still have my old Shopsmith "10-ER" - super basic model at least 50 years old. Great for doing the same thing 20 times. Sorta painful switching from one thing to another (drill press to saw, etc.) Newer ones are easier to use, have more attachments. Someday, I'll find a newer one I can afford. The old, cast-metal frame Craftsman power tools - table saw, jointer/planer (1954) still going, even the motor.

 

[vintovka]

Still have my old Shopsmith "10-ER" - super basic model at least 50 years old. Great for doing the same thing 20 times. Sorta painful switching from one thing to another (drill press to saw, etc.) Newer ones are easier to use, have more attachments. Someday, I'll find a newer one I can afford. The old, cast-metal frame Craftsman power tools - table saw, jointer/planer (1954) still going, even the motor.

This has been one of my reluctances to get a shop smith. I found as i passed 60 the need to get stuff done in a short time has grown. Multiple operations require multiple tools at the ready to do this. This seems especially true with metal work.

 

[1BadDart]

Everyone loves the old machines. They were definitely made quite well. But 50 to 80 years of use can wear them out. Many of them have seen continuous use for decades. Don't assume that a machine is super awesome just because it is old and heavy. If you find a machine that has seen decades of light to no use you can very likely have something excellent with a little work. But much of the old equipment that I have seen needed major restoration work before it would be useful.

Very true. I have my Dad's old drill press that came out of my Uncles machine shop in the 60's. It was originally driven with a overhead flat belt probably in the 20's. My Uncle put an electric motor and a small car transmission. It runs very slow and the spindle is sloppy. I can remember my Dad drilling 1 1/2" holes when I was a kid, my job was to keep cutting oil applied. One of the last times I used it I broke a 3/4" bit and slung it across the shop into the rear wall 30' away. The broken piece passed between my arm pit and waist. It scares me to think what would've happened it had hit me in the side on it's way by. I removed the motor so I'm not temped to use it again, as far as I'm concerned it scrap now.

 

[44-henry]

I'm assuming these shopsmiths are no longer made?

This is about the best deal in my area. $495. "Runs good. Includes base system, headstock with the 1-1/8 HP motor, table saw (with saw guard, fence, miter gauge), disc sander, jacobs chuck with key for drill press, lathe drive center, dead center for tailstock, tool post and tool rest for turning. Also includes the Shopsmith Safety Kit with feather board (518215), push stick (518221), push block (518220), and fence straddler(521107). Includes extra saw blade. Cash only, please. "

All the other listings that have some attachments in decent shape are $1500 or more.

Oh how I wish I knew about these when I bought my table saw!

I would keep looking, as summer approaches and people start cleaning out garages you will probably find better deals. I would pay $5-600 for a loaded Mark V, if you can find a 520 it will be much more useful if you plan on using the table saw function. If you are serious about getting one, I would find a copy of the book "Power Tool Woodworking for Everyone" by R. J. Decristoforo. This is the bible for Shopsmith owners and covers pretty much every basic function that they can do, there are many more attachments not shown in the video, though it does do a good job on showing the drill press functions. You can pick up a copy on Amazon for a few bucks. There are also some very good channels on YouTube that cover functions on these machines and proper maintenance. The video below is a 1950's one that does a pretty fair job covering the basics of this machine and is entertaining to watch. Not much safety discussion back in those days however.

​

 

[sheriff john]

One caveat on used Shopsmiths - they do attract rust. Be sure everything slides and moves freely - especially the long tubes. Ebay generally has a good selection of parts & accessories at widely varying prices, even the old models.

 

[vintovka]

One caveat on used Shopsmiths - they do attract rust. Be sure everything slides and moves freely - especially the long tubes. Ebay generally has a good selection of parts & accessories at widely varying prices, even the old models.

Here on the OR coast I doubt one stored in a building without heat or dehumidifer or routine oiling would last 5 years. Have seen new razor blades disintegrate in a year if left outside. Just moderate rust pitting might be enough to put one out of action.

 

[44-henry]

Here on the OR coast I doubt one stored in a building without heat or dehumidifer or routine oiling would last 5 years. Have seen new razor blades disintegrate in a year if left outside. Just moderate rust pitting might be enough to put one out of action.

I guess I try to take care of my tools. In the case of the Shopsmith, applying a bit of paste wax solves the problems you mentioned on the tubes and routine oiling on the other parts is all that is needed. They are not difficult machines to maintain and parts are readily available if something does need to be replaced.

 

[vintovka]

Even with a dehumidifier set at 50% and frequent oiling the salt air takes its toll around here. Our ocean view and wave sound is more than worth it.

 

[LME]

One caveat on used Shopsmiths - they do attract rust. Be sure everything slides and moves freely - especially the long tubes. Ebay generally has a good selection of parts & accessories at widely varying prices, even the old models.

I had to fix one of these machines years ago and found that the speed control was through a Reese type pulley. I personally do not care for this way of controling speed. These type pulleys have to be running to adjust the speed. If someone turn the speed dial when the machine is off you will have to tear it down to fix it. that is if you didn't break it. I also found nothing fits these machines except their products? If a belt is in need of being replaced, good luck finding one? I had a friend that had to enlarge the hole in regular saw blades so they would fit. With care these machines work but I think with what they cost I had rather pick up a few used stationary machines if space is not a problem.

 

[Rifleman1776]

I had to fix one of these machines years ago and found that the speed control was through a Reese type pulley. I personally do not care for this way of controling speed. These type pulleys have to be running to adjust the speed. If someone turn the speed dial when the machine is off you will have to tear it down to fix it. that is if you didn't break it. I also found nothing fits these machines except their products? If a belt is in need of being replaced, good luck finding one? I had a friend that had to enlarge the hole in regular saw blades so they would fit. With care these machines work but I think with what they cost I had rather pick up a few used stationary machines if space is not a problem.

IMHO there is nothing wrong with Reese type drives. I had a lathe with one for years and it did whatever I asked of it. Traded it for an EVS at 4X the money but it won't do anything the old Reeves did. The Reeves system works and is economical. If belts do need to be changed, use a link belt. Greatest thing since sliced bread.

 

[LME]

IMHO there is nothing wrong with Reese type drives. I had a lathe with one for years and it did whatever I asked of it. Traded it for an EVS at 4X the money but it won't do anything the old Reeves did. The Reeves system works and is economical. If belts do need to be changed, use a link belt. Greatest thing since sliced bread.

If you like the Reese drive that is fine with me? I didn't say it wouldn't work. I said,"" I don't personally like this system"". The reason is that In a shop with several people using the tools it is just a matter of time before someone will turn the speed dial with the machine cut off. This is a problem that will stop the work in the shop,ASAP!
It is easy to replace a belt and a auto parts store should have any size you may need. The problem here if my memory serve me well , is the major drive belt is a specialized wide belt and not easy to obtain.

 

[44-henry]

I had to fix one of these machines years ago and found that the speed control was through a Reese type pulley. I personally do not care for this way of controling speed. These type pulleys have to be running to adjust the speed. If someone turn the speed dial when the machine is off you will have to tear it down to fix it. that is if you didn't break it. I also found nothing fits these machines except their products? If a belt is in need of being replaced, good luck finding one? I had a friend that had to enlarge the hole in regular saw blades so they would fit. With care these machines work but I think with what they cost I had rather pick up a few used stationary machines if space is not a problem.

No need to modify the arbor on a 5/8 blade to fit the Shopsmith 1.25" arbor hole, they sell standard 5/8" arbors that fit the Shopsmith spindle for about $20. The larger arbor does make for a more ridgid setup in these machines however.

I have never had any issues with the Reeves drive. It is noisy, but reliable. People seem to either love or hate these machines. Most that hate them really have little or no experience using them, or have requirements that push the limits of them. For a small shop with limited space they are ideal. In competent hands, they can produce work that rivals anything done on machines costing thousands more, maybe just not as fast.

 

[LME]

No need to modify the arbor on a 5/8 blade to fit the Shopsmith 1.25" arbor hole, they sell standard 5/8" arbors that fit the Shopsmith spindle for about $20. The larger arbor does make for a more ridgid setup in these machines however.

I have never had any issues with the Reeves drive. It is noisy, but reliable. People seem to either love or hate these machines. Most that hate them really have little or no experience using them, or have requirements that push the limits of them. For a small shop with limited space they are ideal. In competent hands, they can produce work that rivals anything done on machines costing thousands more, maybe just not as fast.

If space is a problem I can see how a hobbyist would like it? I have never had one but did use my friends lathe and it worked fine. I can't say it was as good as my Rockwell/Delta that is in my shop but it worked. I did look at all his attachments and they were not built for a production shop. I have seen something similiar to the Shop Smith that was made in Germany it appeared to be well made but I never got a chance to examine it closely.

 

[44-henry]

The university lab that I teach in is full of large production equipment, older Powermatic and Oliver equipment along with modern CNC and Sawstop equipment. If somebody is doing production work this type of equipment is the way to go. For the guy working in a home shop, the Shopsmith will allow one to acheive the same quality work, but take up a fraction of the space. The tradeoff is in some operations you have to work a bit slower.

 

[LME]

The university lab that I teach in is full of large production equipment, older Powermatic and Oliver equipment along with modern CNC and Sawstop equipment. If somebody is doing production work this type of equipment is the way to go. For the guy working in a home shop, the Shopsmith will allow one to acheive the same quality work, but take up a fraction of the space. The tradeoff is in some operations you have to work a bit slower.

You described my thoughts well.

 

[1BadDart]

Complete Shopsmiths are selling for around $800 around here, there are at least two on marketplace now. My brother had a Total Shop, I think it was called, same principal as a Shopsmith.

 

[Old Painless]

I have had a few but this is the ones I keep.

 

[vintovka]

I have had a few but this is the ones I keep.

Looks like a version of a delta rockwell dp-6. Tried and true.