Thank you!My SMR kit shipped out today. I will be trying to duplicate your stock color. Really great looking work on your SMR!
Thank you!My SMR kit shipped out today. I will be trying to duplicate your stock color. Really great looking work on your SMR!
Well, as RMH said, I believe every piece of wood may be a little different.Really very nicely done!
And I like the darker coloring; my Colonial Longrifle (extra fancy Maple) was finished exactly the same as yours; Jim's Iron Nitrate and Tried & True.
But seems a little lighter than I had hoped; really like your deeper, darker stock.
I also used Jax Black on the lock and barrel.
Had the same experience with Bone Black as you found; it seems to be able to be put on, but wipes off once the Tried & True has "dried".
Wonder how you managed to get the darker finish on your stock?
Looks great. Super job.I just wanted to share my Kibler SMR that I finished up about 2 months ago. I finally got around to getting some better pictures.
It’s a .40cal with a Fancy Maple stock. I finished the stock with Jim’s iron nitrate solution, and Tried and True oil varnish. I tried my best using bone black in areas, but I was having a hard time getting it to stay with adding coats of oil. I can still see where it was applied, but I had to draw the line somewhere.
I finished the iron parts and hardware using Jax Black. I also added in a toe plate, just giving it a slight radius at the top.
Overall I’m very satisfied with how it came out. This was my first kit build since I put together my Lyman GPR over 20 years ago.
So far, I’ve settled on a .395 ball, pillow ticking patch over 35gn of Schuetzen fffg. Although, next outing I’m going to try a .020 patch, to see if my grouping tightens up a little more.
I thank you all for answering my questions. There is so much to be learned from all you old timers out there
I’ve done 3 stocks with T&T following the directions each time, I’ve done a few as 3 and up to 5 coats. I’ve never thinned it. But now, on the current Maple Woodsrunner stock I’m applying the T&T with my bare finger tips and massaging it in. Did the 2nd coat today and I’m very pleased. I still wiped it down after an hour, it really seems to be more uniform and is drying a bit faster. I still wait 24 hours between coats.Jim sent along to very nice pieces of Maple about six by three by one inch wrapped Up and glued down for test wood, I had no idea what it was at first but then I remembered talking to Bree if he would put a piece in the ship box. I’ll test one with Aqua Fortis then sanded back and apply a coat of LMF Lancaster Maple and after drying hit it with some tried and true. Some people cut their T and T with Turpentine so as to dry faster but some guys say not to. Any answers to cut or not to cut.
I may have tried using a little Trans Tint dark walnut that I bought by mistake, to darken it up a little. Otherwise it got the same basic treatment as the stock.How did you finish your ramrod? I had a hard time getting stain to take. I used BC Walnut as the water based stuff seems to work better on hickory.
I really like the finish on your rifle, looks great.Really very nicely done!
And I like the darker coloring; my Colonial Longrifle (extra fancy Maple) was finished exactly the same as yours; Jim's Iron Nitrate and Tried & True.
But seems a little lighter than I had hoped; really like your deeper, darker stock.
I also used Jax Black on the lock and barrel.
Had the same experience with Bone Black as you found; it seems to be able to be put on, but wipes off once the Tried & True has "dried".
Wonder how you managed to get the darker finish on your stock?
Just don't lose the little fly in the tumbler.I am muddling though a SMR in the same caliber. I have made a few mistakes along the way. Was the lock hard to take apart and reassemble? I will also give it a Jax black treatment. Yours looks really nice. I won’t be sharing pictures of mine unfortunately.
SR1
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