leam said:
It is a brand new Traditions Deerhunter in .50 cal. Of the many things I want to change on it the first is the lack of use. That requires I figure out how to place the flint and make it go "boom".
There are lots of other things I want to change as well. Yet I know my own fallacy; get stuff for projects, let stuff sit for months/years, get frustrated with self for not doing projects. So I'm holding off on everything until I shoot her some, and then choose one thing to change at a time.
Measure the width of the frizzen, then, at half cock, measure from forward edge of the cock screw to the frizzen. This will give you rough measuremants for finding the right flint size. Subtract about 1/8" on the length to leave room for wrap.
If your lock is similar to my Lyman/Investarms lock, the Track of the Wolf #ENG6 Tom Fuller English flint will fit nicely - it's 3/4" wide X 7/8" long.
Bevel up or down? Try both. You want the flint to initially strike more than 1/2 way up on the frizzen. Try both ways and use what you prefer, My Lymans like bevel down to hit higher on the frizzen, while a new Officer's Fusil works best with bevel up.
Wrap? Tests indicate lead and leather work equally well, but you'll hear a lot of speculation mixed with BS about lead. Use whatever you have. I use lead from a lead ball pounded REALLY Thin, and have never had any problems securing it or wrecking my dainty locks.
Prime with the same 3F black powder you use for your main charge. About 3 Gr. is fine - too much can delay ignition. I do have a little Ampco brass springloaded pan primer that hangs around my neck. It works great, although the downside is that it only works with 4F, and it doesn't hold much. When empty, I simply prime with 3F and nobody can tell the difference in ignition.
Don't let that little short barrel fool you. Once you find the powder charge it likes, you'll be able to bust water-filled beer cans at 100 yards.
Read your manual to discover the ball diameter they recommend, although .490 -.495" is pretty standard, with a .015-.018" thick patch. 50 gr. 3F BP is a great place to start, then go up and down in 5 gr. increments to find your most accurate charge.
An adjustable brass powder measure comes in handy to work up loads; you can make a fixed volume measure later.
Don't worry about changing it around too much, since it's not an authentic representation of any historical pattern (most commercial rifles aren't, none of mine are, and most folks watching you in awe at the range won't know the difference).
Once you've gotten it broken in (at least 100 rounds) and accuracy settles in, you'll come to agree that it's the most fun you can have with your pants on.
Also *** before you load it or clean it, or use the rod *** Be sure the rod tip is cross-pinned to the rod. Glue or threaded wood to metal doesn't count. You can pin it yourself using a small diameter drill bit and a tight fitting nail. Drill it, tap in the nail/pin, then file it flush. That way you won't have to end the day early at the range to come home and ask on-line about how to remove the tip when it came off in the bore. Don't clean with a bronze brush - others will tell you why and how to remove it when it comes apart and gets stuck in the bore...
Before shooting, clean out the barrel - a couple of patches with carburetor cleaner will get out the manufacturer's packing grease, then a light application of Barricade will protect it without leaving a greasy surface.
