My First Kit Gun

[Hatchet-Jack]

I don't suppose there's a way to lessen the gap where Pedersoli inlet it too big, is there? Probably not without fudging things I imagine.

You can close the gap by cold smithing the metal to stretch and reshape it, then file any hammer marks flat. Don't do this unless you're confident that you can hammer and shape metal.

The other way is to fill the gap with a stainable epoxy. Apply a thin layer of paste wax on the brass so it will not adhere to the epoxy. With the side plate in, fill the gap with the glue. File and sand it flush.

Good luck!

 

[pacanis]

You can close the gap by cold smithing the metal to stretch and reshape it, then file any hammer marks flat. Don't do this unless you're confident that you can hammer and shape metal.

The other way is to fill the gap with a stainable epoxy. Apply a thin layer of paste wax on the brass so it will not adhere to the epoxy. With the side plate in, fill the gap with the glue. File and sand it flush.

Good luck!

Good info. Thanks for the luck
I've stretched metal before, but not on anything as exposed as a flat side plate. I'm going to say that is beyond my skillset. For now

So I forged ahead (pun intended) and it is what it is.
The first coat didn't come out too bad. It showed me what I thought I'd see.

I think this will suit me fine as my first. Gotta start somewhere. And keep it fun. My attention span is too short for six month projects

 

[64Springer]

I like that.

Better than the distinct line running down the side of the grip.

 

[Old-Duckman]

View attachment 189576

https://www.amazon.com/Grobet-Halfr...7c-8405-262969fceb55&pd_rd_i=B07FS64DYB&psc=1

A 6" crossing file is indispensable for the area shown in your photo. Also for pistol grip area of a rifle or shotgun stock and of course pistol grips (also good if you are cutting flutes on the stock). The link is for a #2 cut which would be a good one to start with (they are a bit pricey). The #0 cut is coarser but desirable as well, the #4 cut is a finer cut than you really need. I have all three and I seldom use the #4 cut.

I love my crossing files, and they are the one style of file I would least like to see dissapear from my work bench!

 

[64Springer]

https://www.amazon.com/Grobet-Halfr...7c-8405-262969fceb55&pd_rd_i=B07FS64DYB&psc=1

A 6" crossing file is indispensable for the area shown in your photo. Also for pistol grip area of a rifle or shotgun stock and of course pistol grips (also good if you are cutting flutes on the stock). The link is for a #2 cut which would be a good one to start with (they are a bit pricey). The #0 cut is coarser but desirable as well, the #4 cut is a finer cut than you really need. I have all three and I seldom use the #4 cut.

I love my crossing files, and they are the one style of file I would least like to see dissapear from my work bench!

Place your important files next to a 1967 Corvette.

I hear that helps with security.

 

[pacanis]

https://www.amazon.com/Grobet-Halfr...7c-8405-262969fceb55&pd_rd_i=B07FS64DYB&psc=1

A 6" crossing file is indispensable for the area shown in your photo. Also for pistol grip area of a rifle or shotgun stock and of course pistol grips (also good if you are cutting flutes on the stock). The link is for a #2 cut which would be a good one to start with (they are a bit pricey). The #0 cut is coarser but desirable as well, the #4 cut is a finer cut than you really need. I have all three and I seldom use the #4 cut.

I love my crossing files, and they are the one style of file I would least like to see dissapear from my work bench!

Thanks!
I knew I was wood file poor. I ordered some and they ended up being way too coarse to use. Basically I used two out of four sides on my 4-way and some sandpaper wrapped around dowels. And some Swiss pillar files I had. Good for the thimbles anyway. And I actually got to use my 0 and 4, lol.

 

[pacanis]

I like that.

Better than the distinct line running down the side of the grip.

Thanks. It seemed like the easiest path.

 

[pacanis]

Today I fit the rear sight (got a different front sight on order), stripped the bluing off the barrel, cold blued the CI nose cap, polished the brass bits and got two more coats of BLO on.

I'm still undecided on how I want the barrel to look. When the stock is finished and I won't mind handling it and dropping the barrel in, I'll see how she looks. My guess is I'll wish the brass isn't so shiny. But that shouldn't take long to dull up with shooting.

 

[pacanis]

Still waiting on the sight, but was anxious to see how it looked.

 

[Jim K]

Looking good!!

 

[TDM]

Looks very nice!

 

[pacanis]

Thanks guys. I appreciate the comments.
I'm looking forward to shooting it.

 

[S.Kenton]

You can some if not all of those gaps almost completely disappear with some dirty bees wax.

 

[S.Kenton]

I like the nearly finished product a lot! I’m getting ready to build a smooth bore pistol in a couple of weeks.

 

[pacanis]

You can some if not all of those gaps almost completely disappear with some dirty bees wax.

I'm all ears (eyes).
Google didn't produce anything. What exactly is dirty beeswax?
I'm assuming adding something to melted beeswax and somehow trickling it in??? Then do not remove the side plate after doing?

 

[pacanis]

I like the nearly finished product a lot! I’m getting ready to build a smooth bore pistol in a couple of weeks.

Thanks.
A smoothbore would be nice! I'd love a smoothbore pistol. For up close it's all you need IMO.

Is there a kit for those? Custom?

 

[TDM]

Beeswax reclaimed from older comb is dark, from very old comb it will be black. I love using it on all metal to wood seams. Not only can you hide minor gaps, but even with perfect work it seals and protects the inside surface from the elements.

 

[pacanis]

Beeswax reclaimed from older comb is dark, from very old comb it will be black. I love using it on all metal to wood seams. Not only can you hide minor gaps, but even with perfect work it seals and protects the inside surface from the elements.

Reclaimed? I need to gather it from real bees? lol
I thought it was something you could make. Maybe adding stained sawdust to melted beeswax.

 

[TDM]

Reclaimed? I need to gather it from real bees? lol
I thought it was something you could make. Maybe adding stained sawdust to melted beeswax.

You can buy it, but it will generally be a light yellow when store bought. A few days ago while home I stopped by our old hardware store for some steel wool. They had a box full of beeswax slabs for a $1 an oz. prettiest dark, chocolate brown you ever saw. Bought a 17 oz hunk. I was getting low on my lube making stock. But this color will be perfect on gun builds. Find a local bee keeper and see what color wax he has. If there's a way to darken it yourself I'm not aware of it.

 

[pacanis]

You can buy it, but it will generally be a light yellow when store bought. A few days ago while home I stopped by our old hardware store for some steel wool. They had a box full of beeswax slabs for a $1 an oz. prettiest dark, chocolate brown you ever saw. Bought a 17 oz hunk. I was getting low on my lube making stock. But this color will be perfect on gun builds. Find a local bee keeper and see what color wax he has. If there's a way to darken it yourself I'm not aware of it.

Bummer. I had my hopes set high.
But now I know what to ask around for.