My first Lyman 54 GPR kit... Update #1

[Col. Batguano]

The lock area looks like you need to take quite a bit of wood off of the rear (both sides), to make of better conform to the general shape of the lock plate.

 

[splinter84]

The lock area looks like you need to take quite a bit of wood off of the rear (both sides), to make of better conform to the general shape of the lock plate.

Could someone elaborate on this a bit more please? I am not sure if I want to disturb the shape of the lock plates by removing material in this position.

Other than that....any other recommendations or thoughts on my butt plate?

 

[Flash Pan Dan]

The lock panel is rather wide around the lock and if you do take wood off that you will need to do a matching reshape on the lock bolt panel on the other side. You could do that, I was going to, but I found pictures of late percussion age rifles with similar looking lock panel dimensions so I decide it was good. What I am curious about is the shape of the cheekpiece. How did you arrive at that shape?

 

[splinter84]

The lock panel is rather wide around the lock and if you do take wood off that you will need to do a matching reshape on the lock bolt panel on the other side. You could do that, I was going to, but I found pictures of late percussion age rifles with similar looking lock panel dimensions so I decide it was good. What I am curious about is the shape of the cheekpiece. How did you arrive at that shape?

From the start I wanted to shrink the size of the cheek piece. I thought it looked a little bulky on the GPR so I originally removed some its thickness as will as the "belly" of the beavertail. Looking at the first pick in my last post you can see I also rounded over the lines of the cheekpiece. Knowing now, it was a big mistake.

Some the guys on here helped me identify my mistake and provided some pictures as an aid. In order to improve the shape I wanted to do something that was simple. (Not sure if the shape is correct) I don't think I have the skills to do a "curved" beaver tail and maintain good lines. So, I used a rasp to start a new line where the the cheekpiece meets the butt plate. I then worked the corner. I didn't want to remove any more material than I had too so I left the vertical line at the end of the cheekpiece where it was and worked the lines together. I will admit, it was kind of an impromptu fix, and part of the outcome is due to lack of experience. I was cautioned not to make any drastic changes unless I held the skills to do so.

I understand it isn't historically accurate, but I was very happy with the outcome, and thought it looked decent. Is my shape way off in left field?

 

[Flash Pan Dan]

It looks kind of like a hybrid, part old, part new. Rifles of the period didn’t have a lot of straight lines in their shaping. You did execute the shape you described well, and I agree better to do something simple well, than to do something complex badly.

 

[jdkerstetter]

I agree with Dan that it's not "right" but it will do and you made a nice save and likely learned from it so you can do better next time.

On the lock panels, at least make the tail of the panels match the tail of of the lock. Google up some Hawken pictures. Use your pencil first and draw it out. Find the shape you want and then make the necessary adjustments, sneeking up on it a little at a time.

Once you have the lock panel shaped to your liking use some paper and the side of the lead in your pencil to make a tracing. Cut it out and use that to establish the shape of your off side panel, making sure the pattern is lined up properly.

Enjoy, J.D.