My pistols and their problems

[Kadmos]

I'm dead new to this so wanted to work out any potential bugs,starting loads, and necessary gear before hitting the range.

Seems each one of these pistols has at least some issue that has me wondering/worried

1. Spanish Philadelphia Derringer .45 cal

Main worry is the lack of a tenon pin, it has the escutcheons on the sides but they are obviously placed wrong and no hole was drilled. So barrel is held on by the one screw at the top...safe or not?

My plan for this one is .440 round ball, .10 lubed patch (Cabelas prelubed) 15 grains of FFFG


2. CVA Mountain pistol .50 cal

Two small issues, should the breech plug come out, haven't tried putting much force but wondering if it really should be able to come out.

Second issue, the trigger sort of flops around, there is no spring pulling it forward, cocks fine, works fine, but rattles...normal or not?

.490 ball .10 patch 20 grains FFFG


3. Twister pistol .36 cal

This guy was in rough shape, came free with the purchase on the Mountain pistol, cleaned it up, gave it new grips (hand carved myself..they aint pretty).

The odd thing is it appears the nipples are perhaps welded into place? I don't see any flats where a wrench might have gone. Is this normal/safe?

.375 roundball...15 grains 3F? Patch? Wad?


Last one, I swear (until I buy more)

5. 51 Navy Sheriff model .36 cal Navy Arms

Steel frame (I think..can't find a magnet)

In really nice shape, only problem is the wedge, very tight, have to hammer in/out..wedge is a bit chewed up from someone using a metal hammer or punch (as is the frame, but not so bad).

Keep using mallet? file wedge?

.375 rb, wads, 15 grain FFFG

If I have this right its load powder, then a wad, then the ball..correct?

#11 caps tend to slip off this gun, bought some 10s which seem mostly better...Remington brand, seems as though they aren't really smaller, just longer, is that just the way it works?

Thanks for any thoughts, help, or advice. Sorry if most of this is so basic. Feel free to ask any questions to clear things up

 

[JayDee Flohr]

1....I wouldn't shoot the derringer without a front pin.

2....No need to remove the breech plug. It comes out but the drum must be removed first. Better to just leave it alone.


I'll let others answer the other questions.

 

[longfowler]

1. don't shoot that derringer untill you drill & install a tennon pin,unless you want that barrel to hit you right between the eyes! and you may want to back off to 10 grs....

2. DON"T remove breech plugs. ever. unless you're a gunsmith. yes, the triggers are loose & floppy. mine likes 15 grain loads

3. don't know about the nipples, I say just don't pull them. once again, try only 10, maybe 5 grains...a little gun can be quite a handfull with a hot load!

4. yup, use the mallet, tight wedges won't fall out under recoil. just not so tight so the cylinder won't rotate. find a piece of hardwood or plastic to pound with, so you don't bugger it up more.

5. happy shooting!

 

[Don]

Derringer: Sounds like an unfinished kit. Take the barrel off and see if there is a metle piece dove tailed into the bottom where the pin should go. If so and it has a hole through it then just drill the stock and reposition the escunchions(sp?). Load sounds right to start with but you could go with more powder if you wish.

Mountain Pistol: You should not be able to unscrew the breech plug by hand. If it is that easy to unscrew then take it to a gunsmith to get checked. Trigger giggle is normal for those guns, I have a Kentucky that does the same thing.

Twister: Have you tried to remove the nipples? Might just need to jerry rig some sort of nipple wrench. Your ball diameter is too large. My Twister takes a patched .350 ball. I shoot between 15 and 18 grains of pyrodex P in mine.

Revolver: Doesn't sound like a real problem. You could file the wedge a bit but go slow and keep checking fit.

Did I cover it all?

Good luck

Don

 

[Kadmos]

Yeah the Derringer has a metal piece tack welded under the barrel, no hole drilled through it, guess I gotta go through wood and metal...just a bit of brass rod should be through it right?

Really glad I asked about that, the barrel screw on top only goes in a couple threads..I sort of had visions of a large dent in my forehead with the may end up being the newest trend in body piercings that all the kids want next year.

 

[RADeO]

Yeah the Derringer has a metal piece tack welded under the barrel, no hole drilled through it, guess I gotta go through wood and metal...just a bit of brass rod should be through it right?

Yes, clamp the barrel into the stock then carefully drill through the wood and the metal tab in the same operation. For a pin you can use brass or steel. Either one will work.

Good luck, and let us know how it turns out.

 

[Kadmos]

The metal tab was tougher than I thought, but I got a 1/8th inch brass rod through it now, a touch looser than I would like but I'm sure it will be fine.

I had to move the escutcheons of course so have 4 holes to cover or fill. Maybe an inlay...or larger custom escutcheons.

Popped a couple of caps on the twister just to see if it would work...tried to muffle the sound with a towel in the backyard, but still got half dozen or so city dogs barking!

I figured these would be like a toy cap gun, boy was I wrong.

Is it normal for caps to blow apart?

 

[CoyoteJoe]

Yep, they are a lot louder than toy caps and they most often do split, that's why eye protection is necessary.