My smoothbore

[makanaut]

Went to the range today. Noticed something new. Picking up the fired patches, I noticed they all had a hole burned in them. These are the yellow pre-lubed ones. What causes this? This is a smoothbore and the crown looks fine. Switched to my new paper cartridges, fired three shot groups at fifty yds. and had holes overlapping, center black. Accuracy I would expect from a rifle. Im going to stick with the paper cartridges cause they're more fun but I should be able to shoot patched balls.
Im pretty sure these patches are .18 ,thats what I had them labled as anyway. I had a new pack of .18 thou ticking patches
unopened from the same manufacturer(ox-yoke). Opened these and they appeared to be a much denser weave and thicker yet even tho they are both .18 thou. Couldnt find any of these after I fired so I dont know if they burned but they were about as accurate as my cartridges. So whats the deal? Are the ticking patches better than the yellow ones? What causes the burn thru. Too loose patch/ball? Im amazed at how accurate the paper cartridges are. Quick loading also.

 

[Musketeer]

I use an over powder card or a fiber wad between powder and patched round ball in my guns to prevent burnt patches. You can buy these in numerous gauges from places like http://trackofthewolf.com and other sources, or you can punch or cut your own out of heavy cardboard. Hope this helps. :thumbsup:
P.S. I like .015-.018 lubed pillow ticking for patches. :m2c: :results: :thumbsup:

 

[roundball]

Yes, pillow ticking is a heavier, stronger patch than plain cotton...I started with prelubed .015" cotton patches and eventually switched everything to .018" prelubed pillow ticking.

Also, prelubed Oxyoke wonder wads over the powder do a couple things:
1) They provide additional lube to the walls of the bore which minimizes fouling and keeps it soft so wiping between shots is usually not necessary;
2) They act as a firewall and protect the patch from burning/failing.

(Instead of a wonder wad, you can also just seat a spare patch down on the powder and it'll protect the main patch very well...acting like 'hornets nest' material)

Wonder wads are a little pricey and I only use them with stout hunting loads...for milder target loads, the tough pillow ticking patches are thick/strong enough by themselves.

 

[musketman]

Went to the range today. Noticed something new. Picking up the fired patches, I noticed they all had a hole burned in them. These are the yellow pre-lubed ones. What causes this?

Makanaut:
What powder are you using?

I get this with my bess when I used FFFg for the main charge, dropped to FFg and stopped burning holes in my patches...

 

[makanaut]

Using FFg Goex as usual. Just never really inspected the spent patches before. Am I correct in assuming that since there is a hole burnt thru the patch that gasses are escaping past the ball and affecting accuracy? Going back to the range tommorow so Id like to get this worked out and step out to 100 yds. Thanks again fellas.

 

[musketman]

You will have gas blow-by with a blown patch...

However, smoothbores will shoot with a bare ball too...

I think a fiber wad or a over-powder card between the powder and patched round ball would help prevent the burn through, even adding more lube to the pre-lubed patches could help...

Mine was corrected by going to a corser powder, not all guns are the same, play with it and keep checking those patches...

Sooner or later you'll find what she likes...

 

Your trouble with patch material is the VERY reason I use Denim bought from a "fabrics" store- A single yard will last for several shoots, or more, for a couple bucks, or you can use old jeans from unworn areas. I don't trust worn areas due to fiber breakdown - it is worn, afterall, and generally the "lock" stitch is the one worn away.
; Denim is a very strong weave for it's thickness, much stronger than ticking, denser, too. We've been using it since 1970 and have yet to find it's equal, except for some linen, some years ago, but it was 3 times the price and only equal. Ticking isn't as strong but will work. Most comercial patch material is ticking, and fails just as you found. Increasing the thickness of ticking is the only remedy for you. Denim is THE strongest and may work in the thickness you are using presently. I prefer a much over/groove dia combination to insure non-blown patches. A single patch should last for more than one shot and THAT is a good test. IF they will do that, they WON'T blow or burn when you're depending on them most. Murphy doesn't stand a chance.

 

[makanaut]

Your trouble with patch material is the VERY reason I use Denim bought from a "fabrics" store- A single yard will last for several shoots, or more, for a couple bucks,

Probably going to have only one thickness available right? I'll
give it a try. Use Crisco grease to lube the patch? Thanks again.