My Spanish(?) .36

[tom in nc]

Here is my only .36 caliber rifle. I have a .36 revolver also. This rifle is a good shooter and has a great pair of set triggers but there are some things I don't like about it. The side plate is inlet into the stock without screws so it has to be pried out to access the lock screws. The screws for the lock will not line up with the plate so drilling and countersinking holes is not an option. I could
make the holes in the plate and use wood screws. Also the pins that retain the barrel to the stock are covered by diamond shaped plates with two nails each, so it will be difficult to disassemble it for an annual (?) thorough cleaning. I think I will find another .36 to use and keep this one on special occasions.

 

[kyron4]

Interesting. I assume it's "homemade" ?

 

[Leatherbark]

If it has a around a 7/8ths inch barrel you could find a CVA Kentucky 2-piece stock and use your lock. That looks like a CVA lock. The CVA 2-piece stocks are often sold on the internet.

 

[longcruise]

You could remove the pin covers and drill them for the pins. Or you could convert to keys and make disassembley even easier. It would depend on the length of the underlugs.

The sideplate is a different problem but I don't understand why you can’t remove it and drill.it for the lock bolts.

 

[tom in nc]

You could remove the pin covers and drill them for the pins. Or you could convert to keys and make disassembley even easier. It would depend on the length of the underlugs.

The sideplate is a different problem but I don't understand why you can’t remove it and drill.it for the lock bolts.

The threaded holes in the lock plate do not align with the side plate. Only one screw would, the center one. The plate is not shaped correctly to match the lock.

 

[longcruise]

The threaded holes in the lock plate do not align with the side plate. Only one screw would, the center one. The plate is not shaped correctly to match the lock.

I see now what you mean.

You probably don't want to see any more of my suggestions... but you could remove the sideplate and inlet wood in to it, and install slightly longer lock bolts with washers ala CVA. It creates other problems such as matching wood and minimizing the visibility of the joint.

Not suggesting that you do these things. Just kicking ideas around. Whenever I do that it seems to draw out others with better ideas.

 

[rafterob]

I think someone restored an import or used import parts to build a rifle. Everything you point out can be redone and "fixed". Many locks only have one lock plate bolt. So if you can make one line up, That would be good.

 

[tom in nc]

Kinda embarrassing but seeing the similar threads feature below , I realize that I had mentioned this gun and it's issues before.
Here's a pic I posted back about 2 years ago showing where two of the screws would line up on the side plate. The rear one, actually the center one in the lock would be fine, while the front one would be high on the plate. I think I'll go ahead and drill & countersink the two holes. If the non-centered front one bothers me too much I will make a new plate with enough material so I can inlet it and center the screw.
Now what to do about the barrel to stock pins?
I know I'm putting a lot of thought into a cheap gun but it shoots very well and I like it except for the issues I've shown.

 

[kyron4]

You could drill the lock plate for the rear hole that is centered correctly and drill a hole in the front center of the lock plate and then epoxy a thread insert in the stock . It would be just below the screw head of the front lock screw. It would at least give the appearance of a properly aligned lock screw. Does that make sense ?

 

[Steve Wagner]

I think you solved your own problem. Make a new plate. That one is not the prettiest gal at the picnic anyway. I'll bet you can do better. The one you have looks home made as it is. And I doubt you can do worse.
I'd replace the nails in the pin covers with wood screws after countersinking the brass a bit. Screws seem to hold the escutcheons for wedges in place forever and you only remove the pins once a year anyway. Seems like having the pins covered like that is a pretty secure way to go.
And lastly, get some spar varnish on all that inletting. Raw wood draws humidity, and you can seee that the screw heads under that plate have rusted some. Same thing under the barrel if it is raw too. If you seal it up good, maybe you could switch to a two year plan for pulling the pins.
Good luck. I'd hate to see you not shooting it over these issues.
Now Longcruise is off the hook after all my jabber. SW

 

[Grenadier1758]

I think someone restored an import or used import parts to build a rifle. Everything you point out can be redone and "fixed". Many locks only have one lock plate bolt. So if you can make one line up, That would be good.

Based on @tom in nc's picture, the rear hole can be drilled and the front left blank. Only the one lock nail being visible is fine. The front one can remain hidden.

 

[tallPercshooter]

Why do you ever need to remove the barrel from the stock? I'll bet most rifles never get the barrel removed. Can clean the barrel perfectly well without removing it.

 

[smoothshooter]

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Here is my only .36 caliber rifle. I have a .36 revolver also. This rifle is a good shooter and has a great pair of set triggers but there are some things I don't like about it. The side plate is inlet into the stock without screws so it has to be pried out to access the lock screws. The screws for the lock will not line up with the plate so drilling and countersinking holes is not an option. I could
make the holes in the plate and use wood screws. Also the pins that retain the barrel to the stock are covered by diamond shaped plates with two nails each, so it will be difficult to disassemble it for an annual (?) thorough cleaning. I think I will find another .36 to use and keep this one on special occasions.

 

[smoothshooter]

I have to say, that gun looks pretty bad, especially the horrid butt stock architecture (drop is way too much). Even that awful nose cap could have some metal removed and be made better and reinstalled. Seal all wood surfaces 100%.
That said, I am intrigued with the potential improvements that could be made at little expense.
Could be an interesting project.
I concur with not removing the barrel for cleaning. If it were mine, while the gun was disassembled for the rehab, I would clean up any rust found on the barrel flats that the forestock normally covers, degrease, give those flats a good coat of hard wax. Underside of tang too. lol Then reassemble and never take the barrel out again.