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My thimble's screw wouldn't hold. i soldered it. how'd i do?
- Thread starter schuetzenisbestBP
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It will hold but if you want the soldier not to show, mark out the space on the underlug for length and pre-tin the lug, clean and flux the pipe set in place, and heat. That way there will be very little solder showing.
This solder job can be cleaned up with the use of a small wire wheel on a Dremel tool. I'm a hit and miss solderer as well. More of it you do , generally , the better the result. I've had to learn how to clean up my soldering jobs to make them look best for me. Dremel wire wheel gits er done.
Because of the steel barrel one must use silver solder?
schuetzenisbestBP
.50 caliber
I completely forgot Flux was a thing. maybe I'll do this, thank you!
schuetzenisbestBP
.50 caliber
I just used solder made for circuit boards, joining wires, just electrical solder.
Me thinks silver solder will be a little cleaner because of the silver and flux involved.
Most modern solder is lead-free and will stick to steel, it just doesn't have as high of a tensile strength.
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Next time try some of this stuff, softer and easier to work than real silver solder at a lower temperature.
Better than solder for pipes and electronics.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OVI0IY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Better than solder for pipes and electronics.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OVI0IY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
user 34300
54 Cal.
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Flat off the rib and thimble. Tin both with lead-tin solder. Clean the parts of the acid flux. Flux with rosin. Jig the thimble in place with a steel rod and wire. Heat both part to melt the solder. Let cool. It will look perfect.
Might be wrong , but last time I checked , Silver solder is just lead and tin mixed togather. The tin is supposd to make the lead solder stronger.
i have been using a tinning flux and very fine solder [ keeps things neat.. for me anyway]... seems to work well
longcruise
70 Cal.
Simple to warm it up and do it over. Could also detach the rib from the barrel for easier heating up.
Tyler L
40 Cal
Not quite. Lead-tin solder is, well, for soldering. However, "silver solder" usually refers to a silver brazing alloy and actually does contain silver (hence the price!) The only difference between soldering and brazing is the temperature range, so it gets confusing sometimes.
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Actual silver soldering takes place at a much higher temperature than household solder and is much stronger.
The melting temperature of silver solder is around 1145 to 1650ºF (618 to 899ºC)1. The most common silver solders and their approximate melting points are2:
- 33% silver / 1328°F
- 40% silver / 1247°F
- 55% / 1202°F
I you can find it ,A Silver Solder containing Cadmium is much lower melting point than 55% at 1202F. The last places I found any were Italy and OLD Stock in RSA. The whole Rib looks as if it needs re-soldering.. O.D.
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I woudln’t solder the thimble the rib.
I would retap that screw hole or get a new screw.
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I wouldn’t solder that thimble to the rib, especially if was machined on with a screw. I would just get a new screw or retap the holes.
Soldering it will ruin the finish on the barrel, and will throw off the alightment of rammer with the rib and other thimbles.
If you absolutely have to solder it, you’ll want to sweat solder it in place. Clean rub the area with some 150 grit paper lightly, then clean with acetone. Apply small amounts of solder to the rib and solder the rib first without the thimble and then repeat with the thimble clamped down, tinning. And then clean again and clamp down the thimble with a pipe clamp and solder with a propane torch until you have moderate flow.
However, i would not solder the thimble.
If you insist on soldering.Pure Tin is a better option than Silver or Soft solder. Melt temp is between the other two methods and pure tin is about the same strength as silver solder. It was the medium used to put tubes together before modern furnace methods were invented.. O.D.
