My Traditions Kentucky Pistol Build

[wiscoaster]

Step #17:

Projectus interruptus.

Trying to figure how this (improperly shaped - to my eye) trigger guard is supposed to come anywhere close to fitting into this (too small - to my eye) trigger guard inlet (posted about with pic somewhere early in this thread), I decided to try something stupid about which I was warned: BEND IT. (Just a teeny, tiny little bit - you know).

And yup, it snapped:

So, we'll see how good Traditions is for supplying replacement parts. Their website says they're closed Fri, Sat and Sun, so probably won't know until Tuesday.

Project to be continued at a later date .....

 

[wiscoaster]

Interim (or maybe Step #18):

While waiting for parts I decided to proceed with stock finishing. Using the thirds mixture I detailed in an earlier post:

After brief soak and wipe:

... I think it's dark enough, but would like it redder. So, after drying overnight I'll probably hit it tomorrow with just straight gunstock. And the ... errr ... "splotchy" grain (typical of beech), I might "work" with some steel wool or Scotchbrite pad first.

 

[Ballshooter]

Tip for you on bending the brass use a torch get it cherry hot and dip it in a glass of water then do the bending. I reshaped my trigger guard. Way more room for my knuckles now.

 

[Ballshooter]

Also a fix for the floppy trigger.

 

[Ballshooter]

Step #9:

Hardwood finish prep: testing stain.

As I mentioned in a previous post, I'm using the ramrod to test my finishing techniques & materials. I decided to try a new technique with this project by applying an oil first. The reason I did this is because beech really soaks up stain and tends to get too dark and spotchy and not much you can do.

So after letting the oil set for a day I sanded lightly and applied dark walnut:

View attachment 224159

After wiping, it's still too dark:

View attachment 224160

I want it a little lighter and redder. So flash-dry with a heat gun and lightly sand again, then apply some red chestnut:

View attachment 224161

After wiping:

View attachment 224162

You can see it's indeed lighter and redder. I'll let the stain set then try a finish coat to see how that looks. But that looks like about what I want, so I'll probably test a mix of 50/50 dark walnut and red chestnut on the inside of the barrel groove to see how it looks on the gun stock.

I ditched my factory ram rod and replaced it with a 3/8" I simply took off the ram rod pipes and made a new rod, works well.

 

[wiscoaster]

Tip for you on bending the brass use a torch get it cherry hot and dip it in a glass of water then do the bending. ...

Questions: I don't have a torch; would a heat gun get it hot enough? It won't be "cherry hot" for sure. Also, did you bend it around a template, or freehand? That's a nice-looking shape you ended up with.

 

[Ballshooter]

Questions: I don't have a torch; would a heat gun get it hot enough? It won't be "cherry hot" for sure. Also, did you bend it around a template, or freehand? That's a nice-looking shape you ended up with.

Heat gun won't get it hot enough, I freehanded to the shape I liked. You'll need to use the torch.

 

[springfield art]

Step #6

Trying to get some idea of what finishing techniques and materials to use, I started with the ramrod, sanding and applying amber-tinted oil:

View attachment 223935

My plan is to stain and finish with Tung oil or Tru oil. Pro or con thoughts?

Note to self and others: the metal ends ARE NOT BRASS. They're some other metal (aluminum probably) just very lightly coated or painted, and even the lightest sanding overrun takes it off. Not sure how I want to remedy that yet. Maybe just with paint. I suspect I'll just install this ramrod as "decoration" and use an external ramrod to charge the gun. Suggestions?

Fine post! BTW, I always found the Traditions pistol grip to be way too small, or short. The old CVAs were better shaped for me. You did a fine job!

 

[wiscoaster]

Step #18 Update:

Stock finish.

After subsequent application of gunstock, with major parts loosely fitted:

Maybe just a bit too red, but the grain is better detailed, and keeping in mind final finish will darken it a bit, I think this is what I'm going with.

(oh, and ya, dummy, don't store the lockworks with the hammer cocked)

 

[SOLANCO]

Thanks for the warning. Do you think I could bend it a smidge if I heated it first?

Difficult to know. Depends on the zinc content of the particular brass alloy. Less zinc = more workable. Maybe the key question is can you replace it if it breaks?

 

[wiscoaster]

Difficult to know. Depends on the zinc content of the particular brass alloy. Less zinc = more workable. Maybe the key question is can you replace it if it breaks?

I'll find out next week.

 

[wiscoaster]

Step #19:

Making a trigger spring.

Detailed in a separate thread here: Traditions Kentucky Pistol Trigger Spring

Because: it's not part of the kit, and I had already posted a separate thread seeking input on how to do it.

 

[windini]

I'm thoroughly enjoying your build thread, oopses and all!

I might be learning a few things along the way...

 

[Trot]

When you get a replacement, I believe I would open up the inlet a little rather than risk breaking another one.

 

[wiscoaster]

When you get a replacement, I believe I would open up the inlet a little rather than risk breaking another one.

Yes, thanks, part of my problem is I opened up the inlet a bit too much and on one end only. Not decided yet on how to remedy that until I get the replacement guard. Odds are I might just also get a replacement stock, if it's not too expensive, and open up the inlet on both ends and more conservatively. My take is that the trigger guard kind of "snaps" into the inlet and maybe needs a little bit of squeezing and/or gentle tapping to encourage it to do so. Opening up the inlet to an outline of the guard itself proved to be too much, and also once into the inlet, the screw holes line up differently than they seem to line up before inserting. All remains to be seen after I hear back from Traditions. Thanks for the comment.

 

[wiscoaster]

Parts Update:

I got in touch with Traditions customer service this morning. They had in stock only one of the parts I wanted, and the one I could most do without. New parts supply isn't expected for another month. There's an offering for a hardware and stock kit on ebay for $140 - basically all the parts except the barrel and the hammer and lock, and that's what I'm going to order. It should be here by the end of the week.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/314622290722

 

[Old Grunt]

That would be a tuff call for me,DGW sells the kit for $250. and they don't charge me tax Ebay always charges tax,for $100 ish more you'd have complete pistol hmm be a tough call for me.

 

[wiscoaster]

....you'd have complete pistol ...

I considered it. The kit is $230 at Scheel's. But then I'd have an extra barrel and lock. And I'm no good at selling stuff. They'd end up rotting away in the gun closet along with my other junked pistol and rifle parts and miscellaneous gun-related detritus. I guess I was just lucky to find what I did on ebay.

 

[S.Kenton]

An easy way to age your brass to give it some great patina… assemble it, shiney brass and all, then shoot it.. wipe the bore and with the dirty patch wipe it all over the shiney brass. That method instantly dulls and give it a nice patina.

 

[64Springer]

Interim (or maybe Step #18):

While waiting for parts I decided to proceed with stock finishing. Using the thirds mixture I detailed in an earlier post:

View attachment 225628

After brief soak and wipe:

View attachment 225629

... I think it's dark enough, but would like it redder. So, after drying overnight I'll probably hit it tomorrow with just straight gunstock. And the ... errr ... "splotchy" grain (typical of beech), I might "work" with some steel wool or Scotchbrite pad first.

That staining stand is a fantastic idea. Adaptable to a rifle too.

I needs to make me one.

Is it pinned in place through the lock bolt hole?

Thanks.