kelvinator
32 Cal.
No mystery...unless yours was a completely assembled rifle when you got it.
Even then, it was most likely a kit to begin with.
My unknown rifle journey
- Thread starter NavyDoc76-80
- Start date
Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:
Even then, it was most likely a kit to begin with.
Now that’s an interesting fact. I need to ask the original owner about that. So, with the Allen mark, yours was already assembled. Added to learning curve.
Good progress! Keep at it, slow and steady..
Chief, I feel like I’m working on a dozen casualties and triage is a female dog! But thanks for the encouragement. Story update to follow.
So I needed a break from sanding the barrel. I know you are all tired of the nipples saga. But for those who find themselves in this situation, maybe this will help. First Kelvinator made a strong compelling argument why my rifles nipple threads should be 1/4-28. Without repeating the before mentioned numerous attempts to figure this out and a small chunk of change, I decided to throw my cautionary approach to the wayside. Looked through my collection of taps, and as the pic shows, didn’t have that one of course. Looking through my stash of stuff, I found a nipple associated with my 50cal Hawkin. Lo and behold, it was 1/4-28. I wrenched it into place. Pulled out recently purchased nipples of said size, and it fit. I’m calling the nipple saga over. Thanks again Kelvinator for the push.
P.S. that’s a Plano rifle cartridge box. Excellent for organizing one’s taps.
P.S. that’s a Plano rifle cartridge box. Excellent for organizing one’s taps.
Attachments
A 3M scratch pad made quick work applying Jax Black this evening. Much easier than I expected. Maintaining uniformity was a matter of applying more and extra pressure on the scrub pad. Oiled w/wd-40 after Jax was dry, then buffed out.
Started a thread, Hawken History, need to check it out. I would say you are correct. The style is Santa Fe. Likely Uberti. In the link I provided from the main article, Italian models, it even describes the locks, distinguishing between kit and completed rifles. FYI, I miss spelled the title, Hawkin vs Hawken. Couldn’t fix.
Side bar note. Those interested in the Jax Black, I can confirm, it will not change the appearance of German Silver. For me then, I will leave those parts as is.
Kelvin, didn’t mean to steal your thunder. As I looked for sight orientation, yes the sloped edge towards the muzzle seems backwards to me, i realized you had posted this link. I think my information overload is starting to settle down as I near completion. Appreciate your input.
kelvinator
32 Cal.
The links you posted in the other thread are very good ones too that I'd seen some time ago, glad you found them and I enjoyed re-reading them.
It always helps me when doing something unfamiliar to have some pictures to go by for reference.
It always helps me when doing something unfamiliar to have some pictures to go by for reference.
Must have took my vitamins today. I figured out how to correct spelling of Hawken thread.
Moving on, applied second coat of 75/25 today. I put off doing so due to the lower temperatures. Though my shop is conditioned space, it’s still a shop, so I brought it in the house for an additional day. Final coats going forward, I will not be using a scrub pad to apply, or use paper towels to wipe off. Soft cotton only. I also need to add kudos to Chief, here’s a trick if your front sight is a little loose. Center punch under the base. Or you can center punch the barrel in the base of the dovetail. The little craters created built up surfaces to increase pressure and resistance as you install the sight. Perfect.
Last edited:
Going back to the grrw article, as I studied the article posted in the Buckskin Report of June 1980, it details the Santa Fe Hawken specs as it related to the Hawken studied at the historical society in Helena Montana. I will post a pic of those details. The thing that strikes me, is the recommended ball diameter size. Of course I have already bought a cheat box of Hornady balls at .530 and Lee moulds to cast my own. The spec inferences a ball size .520 to .527”..
Is that what you are using?
Attachments
To continue further with this new discovery of information, I just measured the groove and lands at the muzzle. Another bite me due to assuming again in this build. The groove measured .546. The four opposing lands measured from .521 to .526. An average of a shy .524”. Even a .520 ball doesn’t leave much room for a patch, no? Am I now assuming wrong again. This is my last hurdle. Hope someone can shed some experience and light on this.
kelvinator
32 Cal.
YES... the .54 cal Santa Fe Hawkens are known to have small bores, generally in the .53 range.
The best way to determine bore and groove dimensions is to slug the barrel.
I could never get reliable barrel dimensions using a dial caliper.
Take one of your .530 round balls and smack it with a hammer to expand it just beyond your groove diameter.
Now gently drop a piece of brass or steel rod about 6" in length down the barrel, this will be the internal hammer to remove the slug.
With a close to bore diameter jag or other drift, lay the expanded ball on the muzzle with the flat sides perpendicular to the bore and tap it into the muzzle and down the bore 6"-8".
Turn the barrel upside down and shake it up and down, the metal rod inside will now tap the slug back out the muzzle.
You now have a lead slug that you can accurately measure.
I just did this to mine a few weeks ago actually.
I doubt if you'll even be able to start a .530" ball with the thinnest of patches in your barrel.
I shoot .520's in mine with a .012" patch as measured compressed with a micrometer.
My barrel specs are...
Bore = .532"
Groove = .552"
Groove depth = .010"
I would be very surprised if yours is significantly different.
The best way to determine bore and groove dimensions is to slug the barrel.
I could never get reliable barrel dimensions using a dial caliper.
Take one of your .530 round balls and smack it with a hammer to expand it just beyond your groove diameter.
Now gently drop a piece of brass or steel rod about 6" in length down the barrel, this will be the internal hammer to remove the slug.
With a close to bore diameter jag or other drift, lay the expanded ball on the muzzle with the flat sides perpendicular to the bore and tap it into the muzzle and down the bore 6"-8".
Turn the barrel upside down and shake it up and down, the metal rod inside will now tap the slug back out the muzzle.
You now have a lead slug that you can accurately measure.
I just did this to mine a few weeks ago actually.
I doubt if you'll even be able to start a .530" ball with the thinnest of patches in your barrel.
I shoot .520's in mine with a .012" patch as measured compressed with a micrometer.
My barrel specs are...
Bore = .532"
Groove = .552"
Groove depth = .010"
I would be very surprised if yours is significantly different.
Thanks for your reply. Your findings are most relevant given our similar rifles.
After posting last night I spent a good amount of time reading here and came across your suggestion and others. The math is good. Can’t argue with it for sure. Just need to purchase a brass rod to continue. Again, thanks for taking the time to share.
Similar threads
Latest posts
-
-
-
-
FOR SALE Euro arms Remington navy 36 in box , 310.00
- Latest: smoothshooter
-
-
-
FOR SALE .50 Cal T/C Renegade, Excellent Condition!- Latest: Flintlock Fellow
-
