mysterious black flint

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Damascus

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went to get my boy from a rondy last weekend, and he told me a story about a boy there who won the flint-n-steel competition with a flint that showered sparks like a zippo, every time he struck his steel. He handed the flint to my son, who also had great luck with it.

The flints that I have now are a dark brown, slightly dust looking bit, and take a few strikes to get a few sparks.

What is this mysterious black flint and how do I get my hands on some?


Damascus
 
Sounds like the flint I got from Anson Morgan from Kenockee. He has a couple buckets out front of his store. I think it's a good quality English flint. I picked through a couple months back and the stuff I got sparks like none I've ever had before. Real, real dark black. Of course a good steel has a lot to do with it too.

Rick
 
Kind of sounds like English Flint - dark grey to black. It is good flint, and holds a sharp edge well. You can also knapp that flint to a thin and sharp edge. It's that thin/sharp edge, and how well it holds up, that is key to getting good sparks from your striker. Of course, that striker has to be made of very good quality high-carbon steel, and heat-treated right - extra hard to chip well, but not too hard making it very brittle. It's a delicate balance.

What you are doing when you get sparks from your flint and steel set, is using a sharp edge of the flint to dig into the steel and chip out little bits of steel. The energy you put into that process heats those little bits of steel up enough to get the carbon in them burning. That's what you see sparking. If the fire steel is too soft, your flint will dig in too much, and the chunks of steel you gouge out will be too large to get burning and spark well. Getting the fire steel as hard as possible will give you good sparks, but it will be so brittle that it would break easily - possibly from just striking the flint. Having a properly made flint striker or fire steel really makes a difference.

The flint is basically just a sharp edge. You can use most any rock that you can knapp or chip to a sharp edge - like chert, quartz, granite, agate, fossilized bone, etc. Flint just holds that thin/sharp edge better. For example, you can use a sharp edge of a piece of granite, but that sharp edge crumbles after a few hits. And various types of flint have different levels of hardness. Obsidian is vulcanic glass, and is way too brittle - crumbles fast. It's great for learning how to knapp arrowheads, tho. The English black/grey work very well - which is why the make good flintlock gun flints. The French amber flints are the same. I really like the Knife River Flint from Montana - an amber or rootbeer colored flint. There is a light grey flint in Wisconsin called the Prairie du Chien deposit. Works well for knapping arrowheads, but the edge wears back fast with a striker. The same goes for the Texas flint/chert. Once in a while here in Iowa, we can find some hard, and smooth grained white chert that works very well. But most of the chert we find in the limestone bluffs around here is coarse grained and breaks/crumbles fast.

Anyway, it sounds like he was using some English flint. Dixie Gun Works used to sell English Flint nodules. I don't know if they still do. You can also get musket flints from most of the larger vendors out there. Gun flints were commonly packaged along with flint strikers in the original trade goods bundles - and sold to be used together. So using a musket flint with your striker is very historically correct. And it can solve that flint supply problem.

These are but my humble opinions, and are best used in conjunction with your own research.

yhs
Mike Ameling
 
I have a whole pasture of the Texas stuff - free to anyone who wants to stoop over and pick it up. Makes good arrowheads and will spark but the edge only lasts about 8-10 hits before it gets dull.
 
The hardest flint around here is the grey stuff on the rocks under the cliffs. It's black when it washes out of the chalk, then time and tide gradually wears it down to gray-white lumps about the size of a cricket ball.

Very odd stuff, doubt you could knap it, but it might be interesting to saw a flint out of it. Anyone got a saw and a few weeks to spare? ::
 
:crackup:
I don't know how squire found cricket balls anyways, his eyes ain't so good. :crackup:
 
How about those mysterious black flints, they're something else, aren't they?

lenticular_georgetownb.jpg


The one pictured is found around Georgetown, Texas on the eastern fringes of the Edwards Plateau...
 
(drool collecting in a small pool on my desk)

um, yeah, heh, that looks to be the critter

(eyes glaze over)

nice, um, BOULDER you have there



Damascus
 
:crackup:
English humor! :hatsoff:

I puchased some english flint off of ebay about a year ago. 5 lb box of rocks. very good stuff. hard to knap though.
 
A lot of old English houses had their outsides covered with those cricket ball (or baseball) sized flint nodules - but split in half to show the black/grey center. It does produce a nice look to a stone-covered building.

You can split that flint nodule in half by using traditional flint knapping methods. When you strike flint, a cone of force goes directly out from the point of impact, and directly away from the direction of the force. Think of a little rock or beebee hitting a glass window. That little "cone" pops out of the other side. Flint wants to work the same way. But it also wants to follow some of the "grain" within the rock itself.

When you get one of those flint nodules split in two, pick up one part and hit it straight down of the flat surface - out near the edge. See how the flint flakes off? Now tilt the flint down at a 45 degree angle, and hit it near that bottom edge - at that same 45 degree angle. See how that changes the flakes coming off? The rest is practice - lots of practice, and more detailed instruction on knapping flint.

You now should have some nice flint flakes. Be carefull - the edges will be VERY SHARP! Those sharp flakes can be used like a knife, or used as a scraper for wood or leather. And it can be used with your flint striker. If you knapp it carefully, you can make your own gun flint.

A word of caution. Flint knappers tend to bleed - from little cuts. Just like blacksmiths tend to get burnt, and wood workers get slivers. Everything you do has its own hazzards.

Just my humble thoughts to share.

yhs
Mike Ameling
 
A lot of old English houses had their outsides covered with those cricket ball (or baseball) sized flint nodules - but split in half to show the black/grey center.


It's the local stone, we have chalk which is too soft for building work and flint and, well, that's it, the complete list.

Even the field boundaries are built out of flint, it was all they had. Here's a couple of pics of our local chuch, one of the few things the French didn't manage to burn down in their big raid on the town. It has a few stones that aren't flint but they must have brought them in from some distance and they don't last so well as the flint ::

church.jpg


church2.jpg
 
I had always read that cricket was pretty boring to U.S. sports fans, but apparently it is a lot more exciting than I was lead to believe. :rolleyes: In baseball, we sometimes read that a team "exploded" for several runs in an inning. That term seems to have a more literal meaning in cricket. I was a sports writer for many years and never saw a cricket game. Apparently I missed more than I thought. graybeard
 
Any hard flint will work, the shower of sparks is more apt to be from the type and temper of the steel.
I have found a limited amount of flint cobbles about a mile from Ansons house, but none is worthy of knapping or firemaking.
 
After reading the various responses, and looking into the matter a bit more in-depth, it wasnt the flint that made the difference, and the steels that we have are very good, but it was the technique that really made the difference.

This article on "Fast fires with flint and steel" in the NorthWest Journal really helped a great deal.



Damascus
 
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